• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Troubleshooting help - sudden loss of power

  • Thread starter Thread starter Roostabunny
  • Start date Start date
Yeah. Cant swap the wires. Only the caps. 1 and 2 are different coils.
1 and 4 are the same coil, 2 and 3 are the same coil. You may be able to get 1s wire to reach 4. Try that, if you dont want to pull the caps off the wires.
 
You also can't just swap leads 1 and 4 with 2 and 3. You also have to swap the ground terminals at the coils. Won't start until you do that. But you may get a big backfire if it tries to start.
Roost...I did mention checking the plug cap and lead connections. I always do if there's any possible spark issue.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
You also can't just swap leads 1 and 4 with 2 and 3. You also have to swap the ground terminals at the coils. Won't start until you do that. But you may get a big backfire if it tries to start.
Roost...I did mention checking the plug cap and lead connections. I always do if there's any possible spark issue.
Click to expand...
Sorry Kieth - you did say that. :oops:

The coils scare me. Pardon my ignorance, but it looks like a big capacitor waiting to knock me on my ashtabeula. Do I need to do anything (e.g. disconnect the battery) before fiddling with the coil leads?
 
Usually it's good enough to check for spark at the plug by removing the plug and snapping it into its plug cap. Be sure the plug is new or very clean so you know any weak spark/non spark issues are not plug related.
Place the plugs ground electrode firmly against the head and rotate the crank (in a dark area is best). You should see a decent bluish spark. In your case, compare the spark to one of the others that hasn't any issues. If the spark looks similar, then you have spark and I'm assuming the spark is healthy.
Now if the spark at #1 is orange/weak and not like the others, then you obviously have a spark issue and hopefully nothing more. Of course, I think you're burning oil but this is an easy to do check and is a basic maintenance item that needs checking regardless. First place you would check/clean would be the plug cap where it meets the lead. It must be free of corrosion and fit tightly when you snap it over the plug.
 
OK, here's that #1 plug. Installed new then ridden for about 100 miles. Not quite what I expected - any thoughts?

Also, I compared the spark on a new plug between #1 and #4, and they looked the same to me. Wait - did I just check two plugs on the same coil?
 
Yes, 1 and 4 are on the same coil. Comparing them is the right thing to do.
If they look similar now, I'm not sure what's going on that would cause #1 to lighten up.
Is the problem still there?
Do you now have the correct brand and heat range of plugs, NGK B8ES? Pics comparing 7 and 8 plugs don't help.
Unless you've made a change we don't know about, only things that come to mind to change the plug color are different test conditions/throttle positions used, or, removing the plug cap to change the plug has helped improve a poor/dirty connection simply by movement. Also, did you actually check/adjust gap with a feeler gauge or proper tool? Gap should be approx' .027" unless your manual states otherwise. Don't guess about the gap, too important.
Another thought is if this bike hasn't been used much up until the problem appeared, it's possible that regular running has helped minimize any oil leaking into the combustion chamber. I've seen and heard of leaking oil and water/coolant seals improving somewhat simply by being in service vs not being in service. Now if the bike has been running regularly the whole time before the problem appeared, then disregard this last thought.
Again, I know plug pics are difficult to judge, but that plug looks a little odd still. Much better than before but there's still a sheen to the brown near the top of the insulator. Kind of shiny or glazed over and a little blotchy/uneven.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Yes, 1 and 4 are on the same coil. Comparing them is the right thing to do.
If they look similar now, I'm not sure what's going on that would cause #1 to lighten up.
Is the problem still there?
Do you now have the correct brand and heat range of plugs, NGK B8ES? Pics comparing 7 and 8 plugs don't help.
Unless you've made a change we don't know about, only things that come to mind to change the plug color are different test conditions/throttle positions used, or, removing the plug cap to change the plug has helped improve a poor/dirty connection simply by movement. Also, did you actually check/adjust gap with a feeler gauge or proper tool? Gap should be approx' .027" unless your manual states otherwise. Don't guess about the gap, too important.
Another thought is if this bike hasn't been used much up until the problem appeared, it's possible that regular running has helped minimize any oil leaking into the combustion chamber. I've seen and heard of leaking oil and water/coolant seals improving somewhat simply by being in service vs not being in service. Now if the bike has been running regularly the whole time before the problem appeared, then disregard this last thought.
Again, I know plug pics are difficult to judge, but that plug looks a little odd still. Much better than before but there's still a sheen to the brown near the top of the insulator. Kind of shiny or glazed over and a little blotchy/uneven.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't get it. I'm still not at full power. Runs the same even with a brand new plug.

Yes, that plug is a B8ES and I did check the gap - it was within spec according to my manual (.024-.031"). And I've been commuting about 50 miles per day since August.

Your description of the plug is right on - that's exactly what it looks like in person.

I'm going to turn my attention to the carbs - see if that slide's sticking, check my mixtures, and re-sync and so forth. If it makes any difference, I'll rebuild the carbs. Had that on the list anyhow, and already have my O-ring set. Meanwhile, I'll continue to watch that plug.
 
Hmmm. Sure would like to know what the spark looks like. Plug does look much better at the moment. You have good compression you say. Valves adjusted. Fuel is entering the cylinder. But a sudden lack of power, still happening.
Go ahead with your plan on checking things. Add to that checking/verifying the ignition advance is operating correctly. I believe yours isn't adjustable but I'd still verify the timing marks are lined up as they need to be.
I still don't know how the plug color could change so much without any changes. Because combustion has been so obviously different at cylinder 1, I've focused on the problem being at #1. Now if your fidding with the plug cap could improve spark by helping a poor connection make a better spark, then I can see the possibility. You still never said if you checked or cleaned any connections. However, I still think the plug looked oily and oil would have nothing to do with other tuning/maintenance issues.
I'd check the timing too because if for no other reason, it's a "basic" tuning item that should always be verified anyway. Quick and easy to do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top