Trying to understand cam degreeing

[spindle]

OK, I'm getting ready to tear down my top end to replace a leaky base gasket, 81 1000G. I've got a replacement head that was milled just enough to clean it up, new valve guide seals, and the valves lapped in by me.
I know the cam timing will need to be adjusted so before pulling things apart I'm practicing on my known good engine. I'm using a degree wheel and piston stop from APE and am 47 before and after TDC. My dial indicator is on a metal plate bolted between the cams and I've set the indicator at the same angle as the valve. Using the instructions from Web Cams I'm consistently coming up with 14, and 38. Adding in 180 gives a duration of 232 at .050 and a cam line of 102. Everything I found says the stock duration for my bike is 236 with a cam line of 110. One thing I haven't done is remove all valve lash. Would you do this by using a thick shim or should I even worry about it? Could my bike have really been this far off from the factory?
Sorry so long winded by wanted to give the details. Any thoughts or comments? I really want to understand this before trying put the new head on.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Make sure you are using the right specs, not sure if a GS 1000 chain and shaft have the same cams If you need to slot the cam bolt holes to degree them a chain saw file works

 

[Nicholaschase29]

http://webcamshafts.com/

Click on "Degreeing in your cam" on the left side of the screen.

 

[Nicholaschase29]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=122201&highlight=700+degree+cam

 

[spindle]

Nicholaschase29,

Those are the instruction I'm using and fairly confident of my procedure since my results are the same everytime. Everytime I bring the degree wheel to TDC my DI is on zero, so I know things aren't moving. I'm hoping one of folks who are familiar with my engine can give me good numbers to work with. And let me know about removing all the lash.

SqDancerLynn1

I've already used a file on the gears that came with the new head. I think I got the idea from one of your old post. Thanks.

 

[spindle]

How bout it folks, any help would sure be appreciated. Any body got any ideas on stock cam line #'s or if zero lash is important with a bucket and shim head?

 

[blowerbike]

for your application the lash will be fine as long as your valves aren't really loose.
if your not going to add slotted sprockets just bolt your cams in with the factory marks.
there's no reason to make your lobe center really large as you have stock cams/carbs/valves ect.. and the engine won't want to rev to the ceiling anyway.
you should be happy maybe in the mid 100's..103/105---104/106 maybe maybe maybe.
opinions are like a$$holes..i have been told i am an a$$hole:lol::lol:

 

[spindle]

blowerbike,

We must be related, we have the same last name, a$$hole. Of course everybody thinks my first name is "you".

Thanks for the info, it confirms what I was able to dig up today. It looks like my intake is 104 and my exhaust is 103. When I put things back together I'm going to use intake 103 and exhaust 105 and see what that gives me.