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Tube Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter KamakaziDude
  • Start date Start date
K

KamakaziDude

Guest
Front tire is leaking and who knows how old the tube is, could be as old as the bike, so I'm just going to replace the tube. Just curious if it is just as easy as a bicycle tire to get the tire off/on the rim. Anything I need to look out for or be concerned about?
 
KamakaziDude said:
Front tire is leaking and who knows how old the tube is, could be as old as the bike, so I'm just going to replace the tube. Just curious if it is just as easy as a bicycle tire to get the tire off/on the rim. Anything I need to look out for or be concerned about?
Click to expand...

Without proper tools it's a PIA. There are some threads, especially in Tips and tricks, or a dealer will do it for 20 or 25 bucks.
 
Bummer, since I don't have to deal with tire beads I thought it would be a snap. Thanks.
 
Somebody will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong, but I watched them take my last ones off (which had a tubes) and it was no piece of cake even with the right tools. Even though the tube holds the air, the pressure of the tube against the tire against the rim still forms something of a "bead" that has to be broken.
 
It is not as easy, but the same principle. If the tube is bad ? How old is the tire ??? A big C-clamp & a couple of long tire irons is all you need. Main consern is to be very careful NOT to pinch the new tube. 19" front is easy, 16" rear is a pos to change
 
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tube

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K-Dude, Please let me encourage you to give it a try. You may find that it is not too bad a job and if so that may mean that you will be able to order tires and tubes and put them on yourself when it's convenient without having to lug the stuff to a dealer. Lots of folks would rather not fuss with it but lots do it routinely. I have four bikes and I do them all. A couple are tubeless and a couple are tube type and they are all 1000cc or larger. Three are shaft driven and one is chain but it's worth the time and trouble for me to know it's done right. You can use search and find good information on procedures. I'm sure you've eliminated the possibility of a leaking valve core, right? I use three inexpensive irons that I've had for years and I also have a heavy table about 34 inches high that I change tires and tubes on. It is so much easier than wrestling them on the floor. You have a great looking scoot. Good luck with it!
Lee
 
Hi Mr KamakaziDude,

There is a date code on the tires. In a three digit code, the first two digits are the week and the last digit is the year. If you have a three digit date code you are in trouble. The last tire with a three digit date code was manufactured in 1999! In the 4 digit date codes, the first two digits are the week and the second two digits are the year. A code like 4204 would mean the 42nd week of 2004.

You do not want to ride on old tires (more than two or three years old), no matter how good they look. Please replace them ASAP. We love you and don't want to see you hurt.
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It's really a hassle to change your own tubes and tires. There are many here who do it, with the proper tools. Check my website for Mr. catbed's "How To" change you own tires. I'm lucky enough to be near a shop that sells tires at a reasonable cost and mounts/balances for free. They charge $20 for mount/balance tires you bring in. Still not too bad and worth it to me.

I've recently discovered that lash straps could make mounting your own tire much easier, such that you don't need tire irons. Click here to check the thread.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
If the tube is leaking it is probably rotted, and if it is rotted, then I would really question the age of the tire, so I would break down and just replace the pair, tire and tube. And it is not really difficult to get a tubed tire off a spoked rim unless it is corroded to the rim
 
this job is so easy i dunno why so many have problems. back when i was riding dirt bikes (bikes from the 80's) i used to do this all myself with 2 pry bars, some WD40 and a 6 pack of budweiser. just take yer time and dont pinch the new tube when putting the tire back on the rim.


EDIT: dont forget if replacing the tire there will be a white dot on the sidewall, this goes to where the stem in for balancing reasons
 
This forum rawks! I'm learning all sorts of new things like date codes and white dots.

I prolly could have done it myself but I wouldn't have been able to get to it until Saturday and there is a ride happening Saturday morning that I didn't want to miss. So I pulled it off the bike and took it into the local cycle shop. The service guy looked at it and showed me where the tire had cracks all in between the treads. He said he could go ahead and put a tube in it, but that I'd need a new tire fairly soon and I'd have to pay a second mount/dismount fee for the new tire.

So after thinking about it I decided to go ahead and get a new one. I noticed many of you mentioned that if you buy the tires from a dealer that the mounting is usually free. Not at this place. The tire, tube, and rim band came to $80 and the mounting/balance fee was 35, so I guess $115 wasn't too bad. The tire going on the rim looks like it will have a ton more traction than what was on it. I'll pick it up tomorrow and have it on my bike ready for my Thursday morning commute.

In a couple of weeks I'll go ahead and have the rear tire replaced so that I'll have a matching pair. I may attempt to perform that one myself using the lashing strap method. One question I have about that. Is it important to have a rear wheel balanced?

Thanks,
KKD
 
$115 isnt bad at all, but if you ever want to do it yourself just do as i said before and then to balance it grab 2 jack stands and put the axle thru the wheel and on the stands, the heavy spot will always roll down, takes some guess work to get it right but after a few tries youll get the hang of it....

but to do this make sure yer bearings are good otherwise the wheel will not let the heavy spot roll
 
NetBSD said:
i used to do this all myself with 2 pry bars, some WD40
Click to expand...
Not sure I would use the WD40. Yes, it lubricates, but it stays there. Better to use a bit of soapy water, but the best is tire lube.



KamakaziDude said:
The tire, tube, and rim band came to $80 and the mounting/balance fee was 35, so I guess $115 wasn't too bad. ... Is it important to have a rear wheel balanced?
Click to expand...
I would think that $35 is a bit much. The tire shop I go to charges $20, and I am beginning to think that is too much, too.
Is balance important? Only if you want a smooth ride and decent tire life.



NetBSD said:
... if you ever want to do it yourself just ... grab 2 jack stands and put the axle thru the wheel and on the stands, the heavy spot will always roll down, takes some guess work to get it right but after a few tries youll get the hang of it....
Click to expand...
It is for this very reason that I have started removing the wheel weights before taking wheels in to have the tires changed. I prefer the weights that straddle the ridge in the center of the wheel, and have now accumulated a small collection of various sizes. I have now balanced 3 tires in the last few weeks with reasonable success.

.
 
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