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turn signal question. Right switch and lights works, left lights stay on.

  • Thread starter Thread starter William Groebe
  • Start date Start date
All the fuses are good, but I haven't tested for power on both sides of the fuse with a multimeter. I'm not even exactly sure how to do that. Touch the positive tip to the fuse connecting clip and the negative tip to the frame?

Also, I don't know what it means to "try a jumper ground to headlight bulb." Do you mind clarifying what that means?

I know I'm an electrical ignoramus, but we all had to start somewhere and I'm starting near zero. By this time next year I'll hopefully be building my own wiring harnesses.
 
Ok,

So I looked up online how to use my multimeter. I did a continuity test along the length of the wires going from the turn signal switch to the multiconnector. All the wires were fine except the black one. I assume it's the ground. So I cut away the black wire protector and came across this. two of the wires are totally jacked. At least I know what the problem is now. Just need to solder these wires back together and use the heat shrink tubing to wrap it up, then I'll be golden. hopefully

 
Got the wires cleaned up, soldered and heat wrapped. Signals work fine. All wires from theis switcher tested for continuity and work fine. Hurray.

 
Ok. Spoke too soon. My headlight still doesn't work. Since all the wires from the switcher to the multi connector now test positive for continuity I'm going to have to track down the headlight issue somewhere else.
 
Nevermind. Figured it out. Though I'd reconnected the multi connector, there is an individual yellow wire that has a separate individual connector that I'd overlooked connecting when I did my testing.

Headlight works. All is good. Thanks to all.
 
Glad you found the problem. Usually you can find the external damage entry point without having to completely disassemble the harness. You would have to look carefully and it would be easy to overlook what seems to be a puncture wound to the harness. It also looks as if neither wire was actually cut, they were shorted through the cut insulation. If the majority of the strands are still in place you could just seperate the wires and use some liquid tape then wrap the whole area with some outside electrical tape. One other trick if the number of strands in tack is high is just put a little solder tight into the cut. It will not be much different than a cut and twist repair.
Your repair should work fine it is just pretty invasive to the harness that is generally not required. The good news is you will have a new found respect got your harness. :)
 
Last edited:
Grimly said:
... the switch is a two-tiered design, which not only connects the turn signals on the side of your choice, but also connects a 12V feed to the main turn signal control unit (the auto-timer/canceller unit). ...
Click to expand...
Great thought, but not necessary on this bike. :-k

To the best of my knowledge, none of the 650s ever had self-cancelling signals.

Not sure if any of the 750s did, but the 850-and-up bikes did, as long as they were not the "basic" '78 or '79 1000. All of the "E", "G", "L" and "GL" models that were 850cc and larger had them.

.
 
Steve, you are correct. I do not have self-cancelling turn signals. Actually, I've never had self-cancelling signals on any of my previous bikes either.

To be completely honest, I didn't even know they existed.
 
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