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DragonRider
Guest
Second R/R pic.
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DragonRider
Guest
Bike pic.
BTW: If i go into advanced can I post more than one pic at a time. No big if I can't just keeps me from having all these short posts with one pic.
BTW: If i go into advanced can I post more than one pic at a time. No big if I can't just keeps me from having all these short posts with one pic.
i can't assess that conclusion.
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DragonRider
Guest
Posplayr: I ran ALL (including the OHMS tests) of the stator phase B tests according to the Stator Papers Fault Finding chart. Leg to Leg I was getting within tenths of a volt for all three legs...in the 86.6 volts at 5000 RPM. Leg to ground (as you suggested) produced .4 volts for each leg which if I understand is a negligible reading. When I ran the R/R tests as prescribed by the Stator Papers all the results were indicating that the R/R is bad. I did not record every result but I did have the Stator Papers in front of me and checked my results against the Fault Finding chart. If there is any more information that you need to give me any further advice just let me know. I just want to get this issue with my bike resolved so I can take it out for more than a 5 mile, around the block run without worrying about ruining the battery and getting stranded. Have a good night.
The leg to ground numbers are what I was looking for. Unfortunately, the Phase B tests results are generally not as cut and dried as in your case. The leg to ground are probably 99.5% reliable where as the leg to leg are 80% reliable. The ohmmeter is probaly 25% reliable which basically ,means worse than worthless.
There are better tests that require special test equipment (megger) but people generally don't have one of those. There are available though for well under $100.
A summary here
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...D-LAW-of-Stator-testing&highlight=Stator+test
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DragonRider
Guest
Thanks Posplayr for the info. I appreciate you taking the time to read all my posts, ask for more info from me when needed and passing on the advice. I will definitely look into a megger if a new R/R doesn't take care of the issue. However, I'm on a pretty tight budget right now. I'm a science teacher and definitely understand the concepts of electricity but have never been faced with having to deal with much when it came to wrenching before. I'll keep everyone posted as to the results of replacing the R/R.
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DragonRider
Guest
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED. The R/R (SH775) showed up on Wednesday and was installed that evening. It even fit in the original placement of the previous R/R. Harness arrived on Friday (thanks to Triumph of Detroit who were willing to ship) and I spent yesterday and this morning getting everything spliced, soldered, covered with heat shrink and covered with split and spiral loom. Hooked everything up, fired up the bike and "Viola!" 14 - 14.1 volts at 2500 and 5000 RPMs. Still drops a cylinder until it gets warmed up. Idles way low (500 RPMs) but after giving it the beans a few times with the throttle it picks up the last cylinder and purrs at 1000-1100 RPMs. The original blinker issue is there until it picks up idle and idles at the specified rate of 1000-1100 RPMs...then the blinker works fine. At such a low idle, the bike cannot produce enough voltage for headlight/tail light/blinker all at the same time. I'm pretty sure the cylinder dropping is a carb issue. I currently have Shell V-Power in the tank with Arch Oil AR6200 additive. My wife's uncle, who's been riding 50+ years says that if it's clearing up with high octane and gas treatment it should just keep getting better the more it's driven. He's had lots of bikes with sticky carbs that cleared up with high test and drive time. I'm hoping it will continue improving so I can ride now and not have to pull carbs until November. Thanks again everyone for your help. We are in a ridiculous heat wave here so I probably won't get my next ride in until Monday morning before the heat gets too much. Then I'll be riding every chance I get. MSF safety course scheduled for later in July. Pretty pumped right now. Also, I found three connections to the tail light and rear blinkers that were "twist and tape" connections. I promptly soldered and heat shrink wrapped those three connections as well. I plan on taking off all of the electrical tape one of these days and checking every single connection. I'm sure I'll have more soldering to do before this is over. I hope everyone has a great rest of the weekend.
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DragonRider
Guest
One last question. Can I change out the headlight and tail light with LED and leave the blinkers incandescent to preserve the needed resistance? If this "mix-n-match" won't have a detrimental effect then I will probably do so to save on draw when all three are pulling on the charging system. That might help minimize the blinker issue even if the idle drops a little if the headlight and tail light are not drawing as much. Just a thought if anyone gets a chance to respond. Thanks again.
Yes you can mix and match that way. Depending on the blinkers bulbs, you are talking about 23 watts per or 46/12=4 amps. That is as much as the headlamp.
I guess you have researched the LED flasher change threads and the TSCU issues, so I won't try and persuade you much further into going ahead and just doing it all.
Good luck with the MSF, and happy 4th of July.
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