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two different gs550es questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hooptie
  • Start date Start date
I was referred to it by a few friends that ride nothing but older Jap bikes.

Anyhoo. One thing I noted is that the bike is running different jets than stock. I'm away from home right now, but I recall one jet being a 102 and the other being in the mid 90s. The bike currently has 97.5s and 90s in it. I can't imagine thats he issue here, but its worth noting.

How do you balance these carbs and adjust the idle? I know everyone is saying cleaning is the issue, but we spent over three hours blowing them out with carb cleaner, 150psi of air pressure and bore rods.

I'm literally lost as to what else it could be. I still think the coils are getting hot and crapping out too. The symptoms are constantly changing. One time it starts fine and runs great, then it starts fine but refuses to stay running. Next its a battle to start, then runs great once alive.

So I am admitting I am out of my league. Cafe Racer in Kansas City has a sold reputation with 80s bikes. Hell, the owner rides a VF500R...
 
Please follow Nessism's carb rebuilding procedures found at Basscliff's site an honest effort. You might just be surprised at how it works.
 
I don't think you are out of your league, but it does sound like you are letting it overwhelm you a bit.

When it comes to old things, most of the pleasure comes from sorting things out on one's own. Secondarily is the monetary cost. If you can find someone who will work on these things, then you are going to pay a premium to get them up to snuff, and you can quickly sink more money into the beast than they are worth. In my case, I had to pull the engine from my 650 to have some broken bolts drilled out, because I didn't have the tooling to do it. Was it worth the $200 for me? Yes, because it got the bike to the point of safe(r) and better running, with exhausts that were actually sealing against the head.

Part of the equation for me was that the 650G was a free-to-me motorcycle from a friend. However, had the machining run $400, then I might have lived with the leaks until I could have dealt with them myself.

I have not gone back through all of your previous posts in any other threads, but it sounds like you might not have gone back through the carburetors, valve clearances, and electrical work (i.e. the Top 10 in Nessisms newbie thread) to get the bike to a baseline level that you know. (I know you trust the PO, but YOU have to know that things were done to your satisfaction)

All of that being said, if time/opportunity is lacking, and the shop fixes it for you, then who am I to say you are wrong in your approach?

It's a great bike. Hopefully they get it running for you so you can enjoy it.
 
When it does run, its a hoot. I want to get it to that point and have it as a toy. I plan on getting a cruiser to park with it. So it will be a matter of keeping sta-bil or seafoam in both to avoid these.....scenarios.
 
BigD_83 said:
When it comes to old things, most of the pleasure comes from sorting things out on one's own. Secondarily is the monetary cost. If you can find someone who will work on these things, then you are going to pay a premium to get them up to snuff, and you can quickly sink more money into the beast than they are worth.
Click to expand...

Yes. That's one reason most of these bikes are relatively cheap - they need stuff that would be quite expensive to have done, if you can even find someplace to have it done.
 
I have no issue spending money beyond what the bike is worth. To buy an older jap bike as an investment is preposterous.

When i get back in town, i am going to track down a balancer and pull the flipping things off again and soak/blow the crap out of them. I do not have any new o rings for the boots.
 
Robert Barr can fix you up. These things should always be replaced when the carbs are apart. 20 bucks or so and you have removed on giant quirky variable in your quest.

Being willing to send it to a shop and not doing this simple thing first is ludicrous.

Change internal and intake boot o-rings dump some cleaner in the tank and drive the **** out of it from full down to the reserve.
 
Long delay on the update.

Took it to a reputable local shop. It took them three tries to get the carbs right, but they are fantastic now. I need to ask what jets they stuck in, but it runs fantastic. Three cylinders were dead on for valves....one was....not right. TO the point that it was off close to 100psi. Once the valves were adjusted, there was less than 12psi between all 4.

Now I need to deal with the gearing. The previous owner messed with the sprockets. I'd love to drop the highway rpm drop by about 6-700rpm. at 65-70mph, it sits at or just over 6000rpm. I'd love to have it back down around 5300-5400rpm. I'm going to count teeth when I'm home from work.

I also bought another bike to keep it company. 2002 VZ800
20140816_174319_zps1aaceae2.jpg

20140906_135222_zpsb34dc8e5.jpg


Vance and Hines Cruisers, jet kit. It was a bit too loud, so it got sink strainered. All I'm going to do is throw a 17 tooth front sprocket on it and ride the **** out of it.
 
It was totally out of adjustment. I trusted my buddy who adjusted the valves when he owned it. My bad!

So add that to the screwed up carb slides, clogged drain tubes........the bikes runs a world better now. I love the bike.
 
One thing i've noticed when riding the bike bothers me now. I know it feels carb related, so i'm going to have the shop go back through it.

Sometimes while riding, the throttle goes flat, like maybe a slide is catching ever so slightly and the diaphragm can't lift it. It seems to cause a rare stall situation or a loss of roll on power. My other thought was a low float height or weak vacuum not drawing fuel like its supposed to.

I put 30 miles on it in town today and it did it twice. Other than that, it runs fantastically.
 
I wouldn't think that a single carb slider would cause a complete flat spot. Something like that should be more all-encompassing. As you said, a loss of fuel (poor vaccum), or possibly ignition related. Vacuum issues are tricky, as air flow can sometimes cause problems. Does it happen at slow speed, cruising speed, or all over the place?
 
Predominantly steady throttle. But i have rolled into it before and it rides a dead spot around 6-9k, then clears right up. 95% of the time its great though.
 
Well, on a whim today, i ran the bike for about 5 miles on prime, then switched it back to on and (no jinx.....) it didn't miss a beat for the next 65ish miles.
 
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