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two n00b questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
i recently acquired a 79 gs750e

i needed to replace the points, but when i took off the cover, i noticed two hairline cracks. when i went to replacing the cover, taking care to crisscross the bolts, it cracked-- anyone know a good place to get a replacement?


and 2--- i was looking at the motor, and for the life of me, i can't find the drain plug for the engine oil. i can see the filter housing pretty obviously, but not the plug.

i found part no 477187-001 @bikebandit for $40

thanks
 
1) you could probably get a points cover off of Ebay, or more then likley from a motorcycle wreckers.

2) The main drain bold is on the under side of the tranny, almost in the center. I'm not sure about yours, but the 550's also have a second drain bolt on the oil filter housing at the bottom. But that's just to drain the oil from the filter.
 
The oil drain plug is underneath in the middle of the oil pan. There isnt any oil circulation inside the points cover. Consequently, you can J.B Weld it back together if cracked and it will not hurt anything.

Earl
 
(typing with a gauze mitten..)
thanks for the input-- i was thinknig of visiting a wrecker..

the drain plug appears to be where i was afraid it would be--- i have this weird exhause crossmember, and i think that the plug is right behind it :/

i thought of jbwelding it as a temp. fix :) thanks for reaffirming that it's somewhat OK :)

i'm gonna try a little high mileage oil to see if i can help the seepy/weepy seals a bit, it usually works in cars (i'm an auto tech, so i can kinda vouch for it) :) thanks again, guys
 
Don't over-tighten the oil drain bolt, as many have. 8 or 9 ft/lb is enough.
 
thanks for the replies, now i have another question. this is my first bike, if you didn't gather from my first two questions, and as i'm teaching myself to ride it (at a park, on a dead set of streets, very carefully) i'm noticing that my gear shifts, especially from neutral to first, sound... noisyish. i don't know much about these older bikes, do they usually make sounds other than the clicking?


it's not a HIDEOUS noise, but it's just noisier than i would have expected...that's all.

the one thing i'm noticing, is that because of my height (6'5") the pegs seem to be uncomfortable..sorta. maybe i just need to get used to them-- is there a way to adjust them?
 
These old bikes are noisy! Don't worry so much about the noises, concentrate more on the feel.
 
Don,t worry about your shift into first. My gs1000 has clanked into first like an old school bus since new. At least I know it is in gear!!!
 
The footpegs are not adjustable. If they were, you would also need to move the gearshift and footbrake. It could be done with some fabrication.

Earl


m0unds said:
the one thing i'm noticing, is that because of my height (6'5") the pegs seem to be uncomfortable..sorta. maybe i just need to get used to them-- is there a way to adjust them?
Click to expand...
 
yeah, i can definitely feel it shift into gear-- the rest of the gear transitions feel really smooth; i was just worried about that first shift.

thanks earl-- i found a website with some info about how someone fabricated forward positioned controls for a kawasaki ltd650-- kinda similar to a gs.

i'm loving this thing so far. just gotta do some cleanup this weekend. i've got a bit of a weep coming from the cylinder head cover gasket, so that's gonna be my focus of worry for the moment. :) thanks guys

any other suggestions, by the way? quirks or weird stuff i should know, but might have missed in the forums?
 
I have a 79 750-E, so can probably answer most anything you might run into.
On the 79, the factory layout used a R/R (regulator/rectifier) and a separate voltage regulator. You will find the R/R under the side cover on the left side.
The voltage regulator is bolted to the bottom of the battery box. To remove the carbs, you first remove the two bolts at the top of the airbox that hold the airbox in place. Looses the clamps around the carb boots at the airbox side.
the airbox then slides out the right side of the bike. Then the carbs can come out. to change or check the airfilter, remove the end cap on the left end of the airbox. The airfilter is in a track and slides straight out the left side.

Earl
 
earlfor said:
On the 79, the factory layout used a R/R (regulator/rectifier) and a separate voltage regulator. You will find the R/R under the side cover on the left side.
The voltage regulator is bolted to the bottom of the battery box.
Earl
Click to expand...

A reg/rec AND another regulator? :-k One under the battery box? My '78 had a seperate regulator and a seperate rectifier, both which were mounted under the left side cover. When one of them died, I replaced both with a reg/rec from a Honda 400 and it bolted right up to the bolt holes holes underneath the battery. There was nothing there before.
 
Oops Kev, can we call that a brain type? LOL Same unit under the side panel, but without the regulator function. Just habit of saying R/R. Youre right. Under the side panel is the rectifier and under the battery box is the voltage regulator. Youll get old too some day. :-) :-)

Earl


mcycle-nut said:
A reg/rec AND another regulator? :-k One under the battery box? My '78 had a seperate regulator and a seperate rectifier, both which were mounted under the left side cover. When one of them died, I replaced both with a reg/rec from a Honda 400 and it bolted right up to the bolt holes holes underneath the battery. There was nothing there before.
Click to expand...
 
now i'm realizing-- apparently, this bike has the GS750L exhaust instead of the 750E exhaust. it has this kooky little thing where the 2nd and 3rd cylinder exhaust pipes from the header get split into the two exhaust pipes, one on either side of the bike--- this little thing is in the way of the drainplug, which is why I couldn't see the darned thing. (essentially, it looks like a small iron crossmember that goes across the bottom of the oil pan.) so now, i'm having trouble getting the exhaust to slide back so I can get the drain plug out. any suggestions?


*edit* i just unbolted the exhaust for 1 and 4 from the head. :D
 
Leave both mufflers and the 1 and 4 pipes bolted up. The 2 and 3 pipes (center two pipes) cun under the transmission and fit into a slip joint on each side. Loosen the clamp on the slip joint, remove the exhaust bolts at the exhaust port on the 2 and 3 cylinders. take a rubber mallet and "whack" the cross piece forward hitting the left then right then left , etc.
The 2 and 3 pipes slide forward for access to the oil drain plug.

Earl

m0unds said:
now i'm realizing-- apparently, this bike has the GS750L exhaust instead of the 750E exhaust. it has this kooky little thing where the 2nd and 3rd cylinder exhaust pipes from the header get split into the two exhaust pipes, one on either side of the bike--- this little thing is in the way of the drainplug, which is why I couldn't see the darned thing. (essentially, it looks like a small iron crossmember that goes across the bottom of the oil pan.) so now, i'm having trouble getting the exhaust to slide back so I can get the drain plug out. any suggestions?


*edit* i just unbolted the exhaust for 1 and 4 from the head. :D
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
Lerave both mufflers and the 1 and 4 pipes bolted up. The 2 and 3 pipes (center two pipes) cun under the transmission and fit into a slip joint on each side. Loosen the clam on the slip joint, remove the exhaust bolts at the exhaust port on the 2 and 3 cylinders. take a bubber mallet and "whack" the cross piece forward hitting the left then right then left , etc.
The 2 and 3 pipes slide forward for access to the oil drain plug.

Earl
Click to expand...

this was going to be my first course of action, but after i unbolted the mufflers, everything seemed solid still. i tried reattaching those, and unbolting @ the little x-member, but still couldn't get it out without seeming like i was forcing things too much. so i dunno.

my next duty is to fix the brake switch and get all the lights to work as they're supposed to. i assume that the switch for the brakelights is near the master cylinder, in the right lever assembly...am i right?
 
Well, first off, in your quote of me......... change the word "Lerave" to Leave. I dont know how to "lerave" a muffler, you probably dont either.

Then change "clam" on the slip joint (uhhh nno, we dont want to go there :-) ) to read "clamp on the slip joint.

Lastly, "take your bubber and whack it ......should read take your rubber mallet. I shouldnt have mentioned your bubber, what you do with that is your own business. :-)


Now, in answer to the latest, hopefully without any typing blunders. :-)

When the header pipes on the 2,3 have been clamped for a long time in the slip fitting, it can take some pretty serious determination to get them to slide off.

The brakelight switch for the front brake is in the right lever assembly underneath. When working on that switch, there are some tiny parts and a spring that will pop out and be the devil to find. I do this............
Make sure the cap on the brake fluid is right. Loosen the pinch bold that holds the brake assembly.lever to the handlebar. Rotate the assembly upside down. Now you can take of the little cap and work on the brake light switch with nothing falling out. You will also be able stand up and see what you are doing.

The brake light switch for the rear brake is between the frame and the rear tire just aft of the pivot bolt for the rear foot brake lever. There is a small threaded rod adjuster on the bottom if you need to adjust travel on the switch.

Earl



m0unds said:
earlfor said:
Lerave both mufflers and the 1 and 4 pipes bolted up. The 2 and 3 pipes (center two pipes) cun under the transmission and fit into a slip joint on each side. Loosen the clam on the slip joint, remove the exhaust bolts at the exhaust port on the 2 and 3 cylinders. take a bubber mallet and "whack" the cross piece forward hitting the left then right then left , etc.
The 2 and 3 pipes slide forward for access to the oil drain plug.

Earl
Click to expand...

this was going to be my first course of action, but after i unbolted the mufflers, everything seemed solid still. i tried reattaching those, and unbolting @ the little x-member, but still couldn't get it out without seeming like i was forcing things too much. so i dunno.

my next duty is to fix the brake switch and get all the lights to work as they're supposed to. i assume that the switch for the brakelights is near the master cylinder, in the right lever assembly...am i right?
Click to expand...
 
terrybird said:
(typing with a gauze mitten..) ' what happened there?
Click to expand...

burned myself-- a girl i have class with was having trouble with her truck starting-- it's an old chevy, the battery was still kicking (dome light, blower working, radio working) and their starters are notorious for not working. i hit it with my keys, then i noticed a bundle of wires sitting against the frame.. being a dumba55 i grabbed the wires to move them and the toastercoil of crap burned my hand.

the good thing was that it started


the bad thing was...well.. i have 12 blisters on my hand ;)
 
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