Two Part Paint Question +

[tkent02]

Not that hard to keep paint off the finish, also not that hard to redo it. When you get it refinished, shoot it with a real automotive clear coat, it will resist the gas next time.

Nice looking paint job, by the way.

 

[buttonhook]

Not that hard to keep paint off the finish, also not that hard to redo it. When you get it refinished, shoot it with a real automotive clear coat, it will resist the gas next time.

Nice looking paint job, by the way.

That would work and we have talked about having that done once I repaint but I could do it myself if I had the stuff. I have a gun and the compressor but my compressor has set out in the barn for awhile and has water in it. So that would ruin the finish. Is there anything in a spray can that I could use? What about the stuff they sell for motorcycles (rite color???) or something like that.

 

[tkent02]

Fix your compressor.

 

[earlfor]

I spent 25 years pulling a spray gun trigger painting yachts and I've probably used most types of multi component painting systems. I never found any that I couldnt recoat as soon as the first coat had set to what I call a hard sticky stage. If you work wet on wet coat, there is never a trapped solvent problem because everything is still soft enough that the solvents penetrate to the surface. Also, working wet on wet eliminates the need for sanding between coats, which all require if 24 hours pass between coats. Paint adhesion is reduced if fully dry paint coats are not sanded. As for applying decals, you will need to let the base coat fully dry for three reasons. 1. Its damn difficult to apply a decal to wet paint 2. To insure a smooth, bubble free decal surface and to be able to reposition the decal, you will need to wet the paint and decal with soapy water and squeegee the decal flat. With the water as a lubricant, you can reposition the decal if need be. To be able to do this, the paint must be dry. Lastly, the chemicals in uncured multi component paint systems most always will destroy decals, so if applying decals, the paint must be dry. On this point, 24 hours is about minimum I would consider. Some decals are more sensitive than others and at 24 hours, you will have to sand anyway.

Once the decal is applied and dry, you will need to lightly sand the whole tank and the decal. Paint adhesion is lousy on top of a shiny, slick decal.
At this stage, (1st clearcoat) I prefer soapy water and wet/dry #1200 grit sandpaper. Use a sanding sponge with the paper wrapped over the sponge. If you do not use a sponge, finger pressure will cut valleys in your paint.

To eliminate some sanding, I usually apply three thin clear coats, wet on wet about 3 minutes apart. Let that dry overnight, wetsand a final time and then apply a last full coverage clear coat.

Earl

 

[earlfor]

On the bottom of your compressor tank, you will find a small twist valve. It is normal for a compressor tank to build up water. (its impossible to compress air without producing water LOL ) That drain is for draining the water. Turn the compressor on and let it run until the tank is fully pressurized and the moror shuts off. Then open the valve. all the water will go bye bye. Uhhhh, do it somewhere you dont mind having a big puddle of rusty water staining things.

Earl

That would work and we have talked about having that done once I repaint but I could do it myself if I had the stuff. I have a gun and the compressor but my compressor has set out in the barn for awhile and has water in it. So that would ruin the finish. Is there anything in a spray can that I could use? What about the stuff they sell for motorcycles (rite color???) or something like that.

 

[buttonhook]

On the bottom of your compressor tank, you will find a small twist valve. It is normal for a compressor tank to build up water. (its impossible to compress air without producing water LOL ) That drain is for draining the water. Turn the compressor on and let it run until the tank is fully pressurized and the moror shuts off. Then open the valve. all the water will go bye bye. Uhhhh, do it somewhere you dont mind having a big puddle of rusty water staining things.

Earl

yeah I do that, but it will always have some water in it and I dont have a dryer on the gun. so rather than buy the extra stuff I was hoping that there was a company that made a spray can with the right stuff in it.

like this stuff I think???
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_clearcoat.aspx

 

[earlfor]

There are no gas proof single part paints on the market that I know of. Nothing in a spray can is gas proof. The multi part, automotive finishes (clear coat or color coat) will react to Duplicolor the same way gasoline does. I once was "forced" to clear coat a duplicolor coating with a gas proof automostive clear finish. The only way I found I could do it was to seal the Duplicolor with a water base acrylic lacquer (which does not react to Duplicolor, but is too soft to use as a finish coat), and then to coat that with the harder automotive multip part paint (which does not react to a water based barrier coat). It was a difficult job. If I had it to do again, I would strip the Duplicolor off and just use automotive materials that were compatible with each other and impervious to gasoline in the first place.

Earl

 

[buttonhook]

There are no gas proof single part paints on the market that I know of. Nothing in a spray can is gas proof. The multi part, automotive finishes (clear coat or color coat) will react to Duplicolor the same way gasoline does. I once was "forced" to clear coat a duplicolor coating with a gas proof automostive clear finish. The only way I found I could do it was to seal the Duplicolor with a water base acrylic lacquer (which does not react to Duplicolor, but is too soft to use as a finish coat), and then to coat that with the harder automotive multip part paint (which does not react to a water based barrier coat). It was a difficult job. If I had it to do again, I would strip the Duplicolor off and just use automotive materials that were compatible with each other and impervious to gasoline in the first place.

Earl

So would I be able to primer over the dupli-color and start from there?? or do I need to strip it all off

 

[earlfor]

I dont even have to look at the chemical composition to tell you it will not withstand gasoline. The paint you need to use for it to be impervious to gas should be catalyzed and then set by chemical reaction. If the type of paint you need was in a spray can, it would already be set and solid in the can.

Earl

yeah I do that, but it will always have some water in it and I dont have a dryer on the gun. so rather than buy the extra stuff I was hoping that there was a company that made a spray can with the right stuff in it.

like this stuff I think???
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_clearcoat.aspx

 

[earlfor]

Frankly, I would strip the Duplicolor and start over. It is far more work and trouble to try to make due with it than it is to remove it. Hell, all you will need is a wet rag and some mineral spirits and the stuff will wipe right off. LOL

Note:
Automotive finishes are alcohol based and EXTREMELY intolerant to oil, grease or any petroleum base products. Finger prints are too oily for the paint to tolerate, so make sure you are working with a CLEAN tank when you get ready to paint.

You can mix and match some primers, color coats and clear coats in sutomotive finishes, but it is not a good idea if you are not familiar with the various paint characteristics and compositions. You are best off to use the primer, color/base, catalyst, reducer, and clear coat specified by the manufacturer of the paint you choose. Picking incompatible components from different manufacturers can leave you with a big, expensive, mess.

Earl

So would I be able to primer over the dupli-color and start from there?? or do I need to strip it all off

 

[buttonhook]

Frankly, I would strip the Duplicolor and start over. It is far more work and trouble to try to make due with it than it is to remove it. Hell, all you will need is a wet rag and some mineral spirits and the stuff will wipe right off. LOL

Note:
Automotive finishes are alcohol based and EXTREMELY intolerant to oil, grease or any petroleum base products. Finger prints are too oily for the paint to tolerate, so make sure you are working with a CLEAN tank when you get ready to paint.

You can mix and match some primers, color coats and clear coats in sutomotive finishes, but it is not a good idea if you are not familiar with the various paint characteristics and compositions. You are best off to use the primer, color/base, catalyst, reducer, and clear coat specified by the manufacturer of the paint you choose. Picking incompatible components from different manufacturers can leave you with a big, expensive, mess.

Earl

I think I'm already there! what about on the plastics? what would I use to strip those?

 

[posplayr]

Stiksave

Stiksave

Have You seen this bike? http://www.ronh.org/suz1100e_83.htm

Stiksave

Yea,
I use that bike as a true OEM reference when I need one for appearance.

restorationdecals were supposed to ship all of my decals yesteray. I'l be looking for them in the mail...

I got some others from here but it ships from Malta.... Have not seen anything negative other than potential shipping delays.

http://www.xtreemedecals.com/defaul...at=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=136&--SECTIONSword=ww


Posplayr

 

[rustybronco]

Buttonhook,
The only other option that I know of is, IF you have an automotive paint store close by that can mix and put paint into a pressurized spray can, you could have them mix the clear with the catalyst, put it to the spray can and run like heck back home and shoot the clear on. it will depend on the "pot" life of the catalyzed mix.
Some things will have to happen first, the clear must be compatible with your "base", the base must be completely dry with no solvents being released and the base must be properly prepped and sanded.*** sorry earlfor, I didn't see your answer or was typing at the time posted.***
OR better yet have the proper base of a base/clear system mixed and put into a pressurized can and follow it up with mixed clear. it will be expensive.
it will be cheaper to clean the compressor and get a dryer.

what is the c.f.m. rating and tank size, what kind of paint gun do you have?
do you have enough air volume to run that gun?
those are also things to consider.

http://autobody101.com/

 

[earlfor]

Plastics frequently have the color as part of the plastic, think tinted plastic. If that is the case, there is nothing to strip off. All you need to do is sand it enough for the paint to have a little "tooth" to bite/adhere to. If your plastic is already painted, it can be a trial and error process. Different plastics are affected by different solvents as are paints. You could find yourself in the situation that any solvent that will remove the paint will also destroy the plastic. In that event, you are left with sanding the old paint off. That is probably the safest way anyhow, but also the most labor intensive.

Generally, plastics are unaffected by mineral spirits or alcohol. You do not want to use any kind of paint stripper or remover on plastic and acetone or lacquer thinner is probably also a no no. NO MEKP and NO Xylene.

Earl

I think I'm already there! what about on the plastics? what would I use to strip those?

 

[buttonhook]

Thanks guys,
I'm going to harbor freight this morning they have their refillable spray cans for less then $10.00 and dryer big enough for the cans for $3.00 so it looks like I'm sanding it down and respraying. I'm going to see first if they have a two part clear that is compatable if not I'm going to sand everything down and repaint with the good stuff. I can mix the stuff at home and fill the cans myself.

As far as the compressor/paint gun goes I bought them a few years ago to paint a boat, I dont remember what brand the gun is but the compressor was a 5 hp job and it was like 9-10cfm @ 90psi (I ran a grinder off of it)and they did a great job. But since then my father in law who lives next door "borrowed"(took) it and put it in his barn and he has not taken care of it like it should be. I drained it a month ago and it drained at least 3 gallons of water out of it.

 

[Nessism]

HF sells water seperators for air compressors, which along with a proper spray gun, will provide much better results than using a refillable spray container. Something to consider.

 

[Jethro]

There is an option with spray cans that answers the gas problem. Paint it in a flat color. That way you can touch it up all the time. My buddy Sean has painted his ZRX flat black, he can even bring a spray can with him!

 

[stiksave]

Trial and error with the rattle cans $, Refillable spray cans$, cost of automotive materials $. The cost of a water seperator from HF is minor compared to what your going to have invested in all of the other stuff. The compressor you have is good size, the spray gun should be fine. Grab a piece of wrinkled body panel from a body shop to test spray on.
I used a DA sander to strip all of my body components. Didn't want to use chemicals. Especialy the plastics, side covers & tailpiece. My shopping list is back in this thread, should give you an idea on your materials list.
Earl, the soap residue doesn't effect the paint after sanding? Sanding the decals? Holy $38.00 booboo Batman. Yikes. I've always just used straight water for sanding.

Stiksave

 

[earlfor]

Use liquid Joy, about 1 teaspoon in a gallon of water to clean any residue and dust off. You need the soap to lubricate the sandpaper and to carry away the residue. Then use a new block of soft foam or new soft sponge (no sandpaper) and a gallon of plain hot water to remove any soap residue. Then rinse with a hose and cold water and let air dry or use a hair dryer. At this stage, you cannot touch the surface with a bare hand. There is oil in your fingerprints, so plastic gloves are required for picking the piece up.

As for sanding decals, sand lightly using #1200 wrapped on a soft sponge.
All you want to do is sand enough to reduce the gloss on the decal. Think of sanding a leaf on a tree and touching the leaf only with the sandpaper as its hanging free. Lightly, I said. LOL


A cheap and effective water trap can be made with a 6' length of 4" diameter PVC pipe. Put a quick disconnect fitting midway up the pipe to connect your compressor to (input). Put another quick disconnect fitting at the top of the pipe to connect your spraygun to. Leave enough space on the top for a PVC endcap. Install a drain valve in another endcap to be glued on the bottom of the 4" pipe. Connect the trap as close to the spray gun as possible. Between the trap in the compressor tank and this additional one at the spray gun, you should have no more problems with water. Anytime you're going to paint, make it a habit to drain the compressor tank and the water trap of water before starting.


Earl

Trial and error with the rattle cans $, Refillable spray cans$, cost of automotive materials $. The cost of a water seperator from HF is minor compared to what your going to have invested in all of the other stuff. The compressor you have is good size, the spray gun should be fine. Grab a piece of wrinkled body panel from a body shop to test spray on.
I used a DA sander to strip all of my body components. Didn't want to use chemicals. Especialy the plastics, side covers & tailpiece. My shopping list is back in this thread, should give you an idea on your materials list.
Earl, the soap residue doesn't effect the paint after sanding? Sanding the decals? Holy $38.00 booboo Batman. Yikes. I've always just used straight water for sanding.

Stiksave

 

[earlfor]

Fix the compressor. No matter how much skill you have, a paint job is only as good as your tools and from a professional viewpoint, spray cans are the bottom of the barrel in performance. The worst compressor is better than the best spray can.

Earl

Thanks guys,
I'm going to harbor freight this morning they have their refillable spray cans for less then $10.00 and dryer big enough for the cans for $3.00 so it looks like I'm sanding it down and respraying. I'm going to see first if they have a two part clear that is compatable if not I'm going to sand everything down and repaint with the good stuff. I can mix the stuff at home and fill the cans myself.

As far as the compressor/paint gun goes I bought them a few years ago to paint a boat, I dont remember what brand the gun is but the compressor was a 5 hp job and it was like 9-10cfm @ 90psi (I ran a grinder off of it)and they did a great job. But since then my father in law who lives next door "borrowed"(took) it and put it in his barn and he has not taken care of it like it should be. I drained it a month ago and it drained at least 3 gallons of water out of it.