two q's electrical and carb

[satchmo]

Actually it's more like three questions. I have a 1977 GS550 that is getting bad mileage, plugs are very very wet. Little orange spark. Getting 18mpg,

1. what colour are the connections supposed to be? Electrical connections that is. Some are brassy the others are grey, when I scrub the grey ones they turn brassy. I'm just assuming they should be brassy. I might sound like a stupid question but seriously I don't know.

2. Underneath my tank there appears to be 4 of those multiple connection plastic boxes for wires. Two wide ones and two not so wide ones. One of the smaller ones is not connected to anything, it has a green wire with a red stripe and some other stuff coming out of it. There doesn't appear to be anything else to plug into it. Is this ok?

3. Carb question. Ok someone suggested turning the fuel pilot screws. Good idea. I might tackle the carbs tomorrow. Here's a question though. There are two hoses going to the carbs, both from the petcock. These are for fuel, I understand that. Now there are two other nipples on the carbs, more to the side that do not have hoses connected. Should there be? what are these for? I'm not talking about the hoses on the bottom, these are visible from the top with the tank off.

Thanks


Satch

 

[argonsagas]

You seem to have multiple things to deal with.

Wet plugs.....was this checked after the engine was running, and warmed-up?

Are they wet with gas or oil?

Orange spark...commonly this means a weak coil, but could easily be poor wiring connections that keep the coil from getting maximum voltage, or just a weak battery. Check the battery first, and work forward with other connections.

You have a 79 model, so it probably has non-electronic ignition, meaning it has points and condensors.

These have to be set up properly.

Just having a poor condensor would mean the engine would not work properly under load due to a poor spark, and incomplete ignition.

Wet plugs, however, do not encourage a hot spark, but allow the spark to track across the fuel or oil, so even a healthy spark may get stretched out and not look like one.

You will have to take off the cover on the right side of the engine to check your points etc.


Before doing that, wait for someone else to confirm that your bike has standard ignition, as I am not certain of it.


Re brassy connectors....they should all look that way...inside and outside.
The grey is oxides forming on the metal. This represents electrical resistance, which lowers your voltage, and impedes current flow.



The petcock has two tubes. One is for gas, the other is a vacuum tube that opens a valve in the petcock, and allows gas to flow when the engine is running.

(And if you don't already have one, buy and install a fuel filter on the gas line)



The two outlets on the carb bank are for overflow, and should have tubes attached that lead downwards....to take away any gas that overflows from the carbs.

The fact that you are constantly running rich, and see no overflow, suggests all your gas is going into the carbs OK, but obviously is not getting the right ratio of air mixed with the gas, making it a rich mixture.

First (and easiest) thing to check is your air cleaner...if it is clogged/dirty, you will run rich.

Check your choke settings. Apart from the handle that controls it, there should be a rail across the carb bank, and each carb has a lock that attaches to it. Move the choke back and forth to see if it works freely, and releases when you return the choke control to OFFF position.

Move the control back and forth, checking each carb to be sure its choke connection moves in both directions. If it slips on the rail, even a bit, you could be constantly running rich.

All these can be checked without disassembly of carbs etc.



Do them first and let us know what you find.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The 2 nipples you are talking about are the float bowl vents,they should have the tubes put back on.The 4 lines underneath are for fuel overflow.

 

[AOD]

those are kinda optional? hehe

satch, you need to first set all the air screws on the engine to 2 turns out. that should ensure they are getting a good amount of air. the air screws are on the side of the carb, they may have a white paint on them if they have never been turned. BE VERY CAREFUL TIGHTENING THEM. screw them slowly and softly till they lightly seat down, then back them up 2 turns.

next, flip the carbs over to the bottom, and you'll see the pilot screws. since you were running very rich, turn the pilot screws about 1/2 turn to the right, tightening them, and leaning out the mixture.

as i said before, if you're having ignition problems, its going to lead to running rich problems. someone suggested the condesor, which is located right under the points. they are probably about $10 each, i suggest changing them both and seeing if they help make the spark any better. this would be an inexpensive check as opposed to going out and buying new coils.

gluck man.

~Adam