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Tying down a 1979 GS1000S

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lawrence Johnson
  • Start date Start date
Sprung or unsprung isn't relevant. You need to tie the bike down so it CAN'T fall over. This means tying each side down with knots such that tension is individualized for left/right and front/back. I moved my old GS 2000 miles in a trailer with valuable stuff on either side - it never moved.
 
Sprung or unsprung isn't relevant. ..

I disagree, but won't argue that people successfully moved their bikes many miles with different methods. I tested what the dealer suggested (see previous posts) and it worked better and seemed much more stable with 4 straps and the wheel chock(all for $35). And I won't argue that they're wrong concerning the stress on the fork seals either.
Last word?...probably not.
Knots??? Man, no one does knots anymore....ratchet straps are where it's at!!!:)
 
Just think...tie down from a sprung point such as the bars or triple clamp and whn you hit a big bump the suspension compresses...what happens when it decompresses....violently?

Yep, the strap has all that slack in it and then hyperextends...the bike goes careening down the highway....I know lots of people that's had it happen.

Notice how cars are chained down on trailers...by the rear axle and lower control arms. Watch them as they go down the highway, bouncing on their suspensions.

Guess why?
 
If there's enough fairing clearance, you may be able to use soft ties looped around the fork tube just above the lower triple clamp. Be careful not to pinch brake lines and that nothing rubs against the fairing which could cut the tie downs and/or damage the fairing.
Another option is a Canyon Dancer, it has sleeves which slip over the grips, and a strap with loops on each end to connect tie downs to. Works very well.
I've always used 4 tie downs on the front, and a tire strap on the rear wheel.
Never blown a seal either.
 
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Can't happen, it doesn't pull on the grip in such a way that it could slip off.
It's basically 2 individual strap/sleeves that are crisscrossed together. Slide the sleeves over grips and pull on looped end of the straps which draw the sleeves inward. Left end of the strap pulls the right sleeve, right end of the strap pulls the left sleeve.
When the free ends are pulled down, it captures the handlebars.
Probably sounds more complicated than it is, but it works very well on bikes with fairings or that don't have room for soft ties. Have used 1 for years...the same 1, also very durable.

(Not endorsing this link, never purchased from them. But it had a decent picture)

http://www.discount-tie-downs.com/catalog/proddetail.php?prod=CDH&gclid=CP_m04msuZQCFQRgswodhk7xTQ
 
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I saw somewhere (don't remember where) one guy's bars bent using one of those.
 
even a caution in their own ad about that and not using ratchet straps....


Good reason to FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS.

And if some nimrod tightened it down enough to bend the handlebars (if that actually happened), probably the type that could screw it up no matter what method used.
 
The problem is by attaching to the bars you have attached it to a sprung point on the bike.
Hit a bump, the forks compress and when they uncompress...YANK! bent bars.
That is if the strap doesn't break.
 
The problem is by attaching to the bars you have attached it to a sprung point on the bike.
Hit a bump, the forks compress and when they uncompress...YANK! bent bars.
That is if the strap doesn't break.


Unless you can support both wheels in a clamp, isn't any point on a bike with front and rear suspension a "sprung point"??
You can tie a car down by it's axles, but it's not going to fall over as a bike will.
But what do I know, let the COU experts GH give the advice.
 
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Made it

Made it

The 1000S that Larry was talking about, made the trip from El Paso to Florance, Co. without falling off, as Larry put it. The rest of the trip to Longmont in my trailer and did fine. Pics are in the 8 more shims thread. Ray
 
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