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ughhh.. Looks like I'm in the market for a new stator

JTGS850GL

JTGS850GL

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Was riding my 1982 GS850GL the other day and noticed that the turn signals would stop working when I'm at idle. Rev the engine and they started blinking again.

Today I went through the electrical system and noticed that the battery voltage would only rise a little above 12.5V when I brought the RPMs up. I checked the output from my R/R and it followed the battery voltage. I then disconnected the R/R and measured the voltage between each phase. Even at 4000 RPM the voltage on any leg went no higher than 65V AC. AT idle I only get ~14V AC and the voltage from leg to ground was between 5v and 10.5V depending on which leg I was measuring.

Just for grins I swapped out R/Rs and still no voltage above 12.5V when the engine is running at 4k RPM.

Pretty much bet that the stator is bad, so now I'm in the market for a new one. It's been a while since I replaced my last stator. At that time the only "best option" was the Rick's Motorsports unit. Any good deals on them? Are there any other options that are now available and deemed good? Just checking before I go out and spend $144 on a Rick's.
 
I just installed a caltric on my 82 and it is working well. Only around 300 miles. 40.00 plus 7. for a gasket on Amazon.
 
Just ordered the Caltric stator, gasket and an oil filter. Total $44.42 for everything and it was free shipping.
 
Pull the cover. If it is like mine, you will have a lot of scraping to do. And don't forget, even after you take the cover off, there is more oil inside the engine that will spill if you put it on the sidestand. (Don't ask me how I know.)
 
Put the bike on the centerstand.

Put a 2x4 block under the left foot of the centerstand.

The bike will lean to the right just enough to keep from losing much oil.

.
 
I was fine until I rolled it back into the garage for the night and walked away.
 
Steve said:
Put the bike on the centerstand.

Put a 2x4 block under the left foot of the centerstand.

The bike will lean to the right just enough to keep from losing much oil.

.
Click to expand...

I knew that. It's been a year from the last time the oil was changed so I just figured I'd do it at the same time.

Thanks for the help though.
 
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​Following to see what the results of the change will be -
us 850L folks gotta stick together
 
The open loop stator voltage is proportional to RPM, so 65VAC at 4K RPM is 65*5/4=81.25 VAC which is well within spec.

You should test the leg-to-ground at 5K to make sure it is zero volts or close. That is the best test for the stator.
 
posplayr said:
The open loop stator voltage is proportional to RPM, so 65VAC at 4K RPM is 65*5/4=81.25 VAC which is well within spec.

You should test the leg-to-ground at 5K to make sure it is zero volts or close. That is the best test for the stator.
Click to expand...

There was the problem. At 4k RPMs two of the legs read 2V but one leg read over 10V to ground. Using two R/R's (one series and one shunt) the charge voltage never exceeded 12.58v at any RPM.

One a side note: What would a series (SH755) regulator read when not connected to any load? I know the Shunt will read full voltage.
 
JTGS850GL said:
There was the problem. At 4k RPMs two of the legs read 2V but one leg read over 10V to ground. Using two R/R's (one series and one shunt) the charge voltage never exceeded 12.58v at any RPM.

One a side note: What would a series (SH755) regulator read when not connected to any load? I know the Shunt will read full voltage.
Click to expand...

Not a good idea to run the R/R while connected to the bike but not the battery.

What it will do when compley disconnected I'm not sure. In general i woudl say "Not Defined", meaning it is design dependent.

When you pull the stator it will likely be heat damaged which caused the breakdown in the insulation.
 
posplayr said:
Not a good idea to run the R/R while connected to the bike but not the battery.

What it will do when compley disconnected I'm not sure. In general i woudl say "Not Defined", meaning it is design dependent.

When you pull the stator it will likely be heat damaged which caused the breakdown in the insulation.
Click to expand...

Just curious because I found that the shunt type regulator outputted 15V with no load but the series type showed 0V on the output. Never ran either on for more than a couple minutes with no load.

I'm pretty sure the stator will show heat damage, as in brown and burnt. It is the original stator and the R/R was a later model FH regulator (same form factor but shunt instead of series as the SH775). Switching over to a new Caltric stator and a replacement SH775BA R/R. No change in wiring since the FH and the 775BA have the same connectors and pinout.

Figure that will be the last time I have to worry about charging issues. The battery is a relatively new AGM battery so that should be OK as well. Comes to full charge on a stand alone charger. Been going over every connector with DOXIT D5. Always have a couple cans of it on hand.
 
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JTGS850GL said:
Just curious because I found that the shunt type regulator outputted 15V with no load but the series type showed 0V on the output. Never ran either on for more than a couple minutes with no load.

I'm pretty sure the stator will show heat damage, as in brown and burnt. It is the original stator and the R/R was a later model series style FH regulator. Switching over to a new Caltric stator and a replacement SH775BA R/R. No change in wiring since the FH and the 775BA have the same connectors and pinout.

Figure that will be the last time I have to worry about charging issues. The battery is a relatively new AGM battery so that should be OK as well. Comes to full charge on a stand alone charger. Been going over every connector with DOXIT D5. Always have a couple cans of it on hand.
Click to expand...

IIRC FH is a FET style SHUNT R/R not SERIES.
 
Jim, please read what I wrote. I used both a shunt (FA) and a series (SH775) style R/Rs to test the system. One, the (SH775) was available but not installed yet and the other (shunt FH) is being replaced and was still mounted. Noted that the installation will be rather quick since no wiring changes will be needed other than hard wiring the stator to the R/R. Both style R/Rs utilized the same connectors and pinout. Just comparing one v/s the other on a no load condition. Noted that both produced a max voltage of around 12.8V when the output was connected but when run open circuit the FH (shunt) produced 15V while the series (SH775) produced no voltage output. More of an experiment than real empirical data but interesting none the less.

The new stator should arrive today so it looks like my next day off (Tues) will be bike day. Also picked up a pair of tires so those will be mounted as well. Should be ready for summer riding by the end of the day.:)
 
JTGS850GL said:
Jim, please read what I wrote. I used both a shunt (FA) and a series (SH775) style R/Rs to test the system. One, the (SH775) was available but not installed yet and the other (shunt FH) is being replaced and was still mounted. Noted that the installation will be rather quick since no wiring changes will be needed other than hard wiring the stator to the R/R. Both style R/Rs utilized the same connectors and pinout. Just comparing one v/s the other on a no load condition. Noted that both produced a max voltage of around 12.8V when the output was connected but when run open circuit the FH (shunt) produced 15V while the series (SH775) produced no voltage output. More of an experiment than real empirical data but interesting none the less.

The new stator should arrive today so it looks like my next day off (Tues) will be bike day. Also picked up a pair of tires so those will be mounted as well. Should be ready for summer riding by the end of the day.:)
Click to expand...

Well i did read what you said and referred to this

It is the original stator and the R/R was a later model series style FH regulator.
Click to expand...

After previously rereading the sentence above at least twice, I took this sentence to mean that you thought that FH is a series R/R which I don't believe it is.
 
Just reread that in found my error.

Yep, sorry for the mistake. In fact the FH is a mosfet shunt regulator. Just meant that the FH physical form factor was the same as the SH775 with the same connectors and pinout. I'll correct it.
 
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Installed my new Caltric stator. Was surprised to see I still had low charge voltage. Went back through everything and to my dismay I found a short from one leg of the stator to ground. Tore everything apart again expecting a pinch wire but did not see any problems at first. On a closer inspection with the stator out of the case I found the source of my problem. When Caltric manufactured the stator they left one of the winding leads long so it overlapped one of the bolt holes of the core. When the stator was tightened down it pinched the winding and caused the short. I was able to bend it back away from the core and give it enough clearance.
Just wanted to give others a heads up to check and make sure winding's are out of the way and to check for shorts electrically before you mount the stator and case back onto the bike. Never happened to me before so I didn't check it before mounting the case. Lessons learned and it only cost me about 1 hour of time. Would have been less if it were not for the case guards.

Now have a new SH775 R/R and Caltric stator. Picked up a new Motobatt MBTX14AU AGM battery just to top it off. Should be good for years to come.:)
 
Good for you, Julius!

Glad you sorted out your stator problem. Enjoy the ride for years to come.

Ed

****
 
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