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Uh Oh

  • Thread starter Thread starter thr3shold
  • Start date Start date
T

thr3shold

Guest
If I had the chain tensioner off my '80 GS1100E and I turned the bike over briefly without thinking....how bad is that? The chain guide where the tensioner pushes has 'moved' so that I cannot get the tensioner back on.



help
 
thr3shold said:
If I had the chain tensioner off my '80 GS1100E and I turned the bike over briefly without thinking....how bad is that? The chain guide where the tensioner pushes has 'moved' so that I cannot get the tensioner back on.



help
Click to expand...
Depends on several things. If the chain jumped sprockets on the cams they are out of time and may have possibly bent valves. At this point you need to pull the valve cover and confirm the cams are still timed at TDC. Then if all is well you need to reinstall the tensioner the way the factory intended.

Loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.
 
It turns out the reason I couldn't get it in was that the chain had gone taut pushing out the guide. I pushed the guide back in, crossed my fingers and it fired up fine. Thanks.
 
I had this happen once when I was putting the cams back in the engine. The cam chain had bound up and would not permit me to put the tensioner back in. Don't force it. Take off the ignition cover and with a 19mm wrench turn the motor counter-clockwise and see if this unbinds it.
If you can get the tensioner back on I would still remove the valve cover and check the timing.
I hope you didn't bend and valves. :cry:
 
Glad it worked out for you. I didn't mean to sound all doom and gloom, just wanted to warn you what might have happened.
 
Gloom and Doom is fine, it lets you know what sorts of curveballs might be coming at you. I just had a feeling it would be OK, the old girl isn't ready to give up just yet, I just finished painting her!
 
Impressive!

Impressive!

Billy Ricks said:
Depends on several things. If the chain jumped sprockets on the cams they are out of time and may have possibly bent valves. At this point you need to pull the valve cover and confirm the cams are still timed at TDC. Then if all is well you need to reinstall the tensioner the way the factory intended.

Loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.
Click to expand...

<jaw drops> Wow, now that's the stuff! I want to be just like that when I grow up! I'm going to cut and paste this tidbit into my personal repair manual. Thank you Mr. Billy Ricks!

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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