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vac sync carb settings gs750e 1979

  • Thread starter Thread starter captrise
  • Start date Start date
C

captrise

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the past few days have been rough. come to find out the vac was way off. i did get it close but, maybe I should pick up a real manometer. I made one from you tube. it worked ok. so on the last post I said I moved the clip on fuel needle up one space making the setting at #2 .this is the setting by the manual.i have everything hooked up, the air box is also on. so the idle is fine,then when throttling up there seems like its not as quick as before . Steve said that maybe #2 wasn,t so good setting. im going to reset back to #3.i think this should do the trick. this is everything that has been done and if anyone has an idea please get back. also thanks everyone . your feed back has helped me . thank you. this is a great site .everyone seems to want to help fellow riders. dyna s with coils, complete carb rebuild 102 mains 15 pilot ,air screws set at 1 1/4, now it was said that the fuel metering screw should be at 7/8 turn, not 2 that I had it set. when I tried this the bike didn't go to good. the plugs were really clean, like leaned out. any how I reset to 1 1/2 and goes better. I have stock pipes. i have a set of carbs that came off the other gs750 motor.its suppose to be a 1978. the mains are 100s. with this size mains would the engine be getting less fuel than running 102 mains? just wondering cuz the one im working on is a 1979. they suppose to be the same motor.this is some experience. the bike running really great then just starts popping running like on three cylinders. thats why I went with doing the changes.i want stay stock, but going by manual doesn't seem to work sometimes Captrise
 
Sounds like you have the screws set correctly for the initial setup. But the stock position for the E clip on the needle is the center groove.
 
One of the first things I do is remove the resistors from the plug caps and replace with 1/8 brass rod. That way I am positive a resistor isnt fvckking with me. They arent needed anyways. Note that 2 and 3 have a spring.the spring goes in first, then the rod, then the plug retainer thing.
 
hello Chuck, thanks for your input. with the plug caps ,I don't know that they have resistors..3ohm green coils & wires(came with kit). I will look into this. I did see something on youtube about this problem. really I haven't ever delt with this before. also with the jet needle you say the middle. that should be right around #3 space. its really something that a small move(distance) as the spaces on the needle could have such an impact! again thank you much. hopefully I can get this right. nice rides you have. mine are kz900 76 xv1100 86, both are great shape. the gs750 79 is the one that I ride most. I do fire up the others for quick ride weekly to keep fuel, carb etc. intack. Captrise
 
Green coils are "normally" Dyna coils, an excellent upgrade.
If your wires came with spark plug boots attached already, you are fine.
They come in black, grey, red and yellow.
Posting a picture would be most helpful.
 
Yes on what George says..To clarify, I was referring to the stock plug caps. If stock, unscrew the deal inside ( theres a slot for the screw driver) and dump the resistors out.
 
This: NGK or stock resistor caps is what the resistor caps look like, put together, of course. The angle will probably be different, but they are hard plastic. The Dynatek wires have soft rubber boots.
 
The resistors are needed if you want to use any kind of electronics on or near the bike while it's running. Including voltmeters and the like. If they're all burnt up, as mine were, you can replace them with a short piece of rod and use spark plugs with resistors built in instead. (So, if you have B8ES plugs, the resistor-enabled ones are BR8ES.)
 
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