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Valve adjusting snafu

  • Thread starter Thread starter schmitty78
  • Start date Start date
S

schmitty78

Guest
So, today I decided to give it a shot checking to see what valve shims are in my GS450TX. I was previously referred to the 'cable tie trick' in a write up on BassCliff's website. The trick worked like a charm! Unfortunately, I decided to try swapping both intake shims, to see if the 2.65 on the right valve, would put my left valve in tolerance. So, I took the right shim out and began turning the cam in order to get to the left shim. Before swapping the shims, I noticed that now the cam lobe is stuck in the valve shim 'seat', and if I turn any further, am risking doing damage to the cam lobe and shim 'seat'. I know I'm not the first to make this irritating mistake, so I'm wondering what is the solution to depressing the valve in order to get the shim back in??? Thanks to anyone for a tips out of this predicament!
 
Can you just place the last removed shim back in then rotate it backwards? If that will work, inspect the cam and bucket edges for scraping i.e. metal chips. Ray
 
Can you just place the last removed shim back in then rotate it backwards? If that will work, inspect the cam and bucket edges for scraping i.e. metal chips. Ray
Well, from what I can see, in order to get the cam lobe in position to put the shim back in, I would have to rotate it and thus it would scrape the bucket edges. Also, for some stupid reason, I removed the cable tie while the valve was open, so now the valve is closing all the way, as well. This has proven to be a pretty frustrating day...
 
If all else fails, ... remove the carbs, remove the cam chain tensioner, loosen the cams, lift them out of the way to re-insert your shims.

This will, of course, require re-timing the cams (it's good to verify that they are correct, anyway) and PROPERLY re-install the tensioner, but it will work. :o

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If all else fails, ... remove the carbs, remove the cam chain tensioner, loosen the cams, lift them out of the way to re-insert your shims.

This will, of course, require re-timing the cams (it's good to verify that they are correct, anyway) and PROPERLY re-install the tensioner, but it will work. :o

.
That's what I was afraid of. Trying to stay away from that, if it all possible...
 
Do as Steve says, he knows this stuff. It's really not that hard, not when compared to replacing all that crap because you screwed it up.
 
That's what I was afraid of. Trying to stay away from that, if it all possible...
How long do you think it will take to TRY to get everything unstuck without removing the cams?
AND to do it without any damage?

Removing and replacing the cams should easily be done within an hour for a first-timer.
When you have to do it again, it will likely take no more than half an hour. :D

Personally, I would remove the cams.
icon_shrug.gif


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How long do you think it will take to TRY to get everything unstuck without removing the cams?
AND to do it without any damage?

Removing and replacing the cams should easily be done within an hour for a first-timer.
When you have to do it again, it will likely take no more than half an hour. :D

Personally, I would remove the cams.
icon_shrug.gif


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Well, I guess I have all day. And the service manual. Maybe I'll give it a go. Guess I'll start by reading up on setting the timing...
 
Steve and Tom are correct, if you have to turn it any further, you will be doing "in place machining". You won't like the results. Ray
 
Yup, Steve's on the money as usual, there's no other *safe* way to proceed...

As for the cam chain tensioner, timing, etc. it's all pretty straight forward and if you're not feeling confident there are plenty of us on here who've done it before and can give advice.

I probably have some suitable photos of my 450 getting cam timing done too if it helps.
 
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