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valve adjustment ,cam chain and service?S

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jesse002100
  • Start date Start date
J

Jesse002100

Guest
1978 GS550
1. Well I have read thru BassCliffs GS850 guide on how to adjust valves. can anyone clarify how to position the valves for exhaust and intake. is there a spot on the points plate to turn the motor two or anything to make it easier for a first timer:confused::-k
2. While I'm in there can anyone tell me how to check the cam chain or what else i can do while i have it all apart to service it all? the bike has had sound coming from it that alot have speculated at, but nothing has been acomplished twards fixing the issue? here is the video any ideas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVlhSJljy_Y
3. If there is any other things i can service while its going to be down for a day worth of work?:?:
Thanks loads in advanced withought the GSR I would be lost ( BassCliffs site is a great help as well )
Jesse
 
Jesse002100 said:
1978 GS550
1. Well I have read thru BassCliffs GS850 guide on how to adjust valves. can anyone clarify how to position the valves for exhaust and intake. is there a spot on the points plate to turn the motor two or anything to make it easier for a first timer:confused::-k
2. While I'm in there can anyone tell me how to check the cam chain or what else i can do while i have it all apart to service it all? the bike has had sound coming from it that alot have speculated at, but nothing has been acomplished twards fixing the issue? here is the video any ideas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVlhSJljy_Y
Jesse
Click to expand...

Hi Jesse welcome to the site.

The valve adjustment is done by the position the camshafts are in, not the position the points or ignition reference are in. Adjust the no. 1 & 2 exhaust valves with the no. 1 exhaust cam lobe pointing forward parallel with the cylinder head surface.
Then do the no. 1 & 2 intake valves with the no. 1 intake cam pointing up at 90 degrees to the cylinder head. Then do the other side of the motor in a similar fashion. Turn the engine over using the large 19mm nut on the end of the crank under the ignition cover, right side.

You don't need to measure your camchain. It will not be worn. But I would go through the camchain tensioner procedure because it sounds like you do not have the correct tension on the chain, especially at idle. read your manual.
 
Last edited:
cam chain specs

cam chain specs

well thanks for you reply don but i thought the cam chain tensioner auto tensioned the chain thats why its spring loaded ? or is there another adjustment to it that im not sure about?
 
Jesse002100 said:
well thanks for you reply don but i thought the cam chain tensioner auto tensioned the chain thats why its spring loaded ? or is there another adjustment to it that im not sure about?
Click to expand...
It does auto tension, but its also 30 some odd years old, and may need cleaned. Usually they get dirty, filled up with sludge or motor grime and crap and need to be pulled and cleaned, reset, re-installed and armed. Yeah, its a little bit of a pain, damn shame you have to do it so often, You know, like every 20 years or so :D
 
TheCafeKid said:
It does auto tension, but its also 30 some odd years old, and may need cleaned. Usually they get dirty, filled up with sludge or motor grime and crap and need to be pulled and cleaned, reset, re-installed and armed. Yeah, its a little bit of a pain, damn shame you have to do it so often, You know, like every 20 years or so :D
Click to expand...

do i need the replacement oil seal or o-rings before i tear it apart? or should it go back together alright Fingers crossed:confused: and should i just tighten it down then remove it or remove it as it is the service manual isnt specific on how to take it apart?
thanks, Jesse
 
Jesse002100 said:
do i need the replacement oil seal or o-rings before i tear it apart? or should it go back together alright Fingers crossed:confused: and should i just tighten it down then remove it or remove it as it is the service manual isnt specific on how to take it apart?
thanks, Jesse
Click to expand...
Order the rings, if you're going to take it apart, you might as well clean it and put new rings in it to remove that variable from the problem. BWringer did an EXCELLENT tutorial on how to do this very project, and you can find it on BassCliff's site. But basicly, once you've removed and cleaned the tensioner, replaced the rings and what not, You need to retract the tensioner rod while turning the knob. Lock it into that position with the set screw. Install the tensioner, then release the rod by loosening the set screw. It will snap into position, once there, tighten the set screw to tight, then back it out about a 1/2 turn, hold it with the screwdriver and tighten the lock nut down on it. The set screw must NOT be all the way tight, as it rides in a guide channel that has a stop in the end to keep the rod from coming all the way out. If you tighten it down all the way, the rod, which does the auto tensioning, will not be able to move as necessary. It will make complete sense when you take it apart and see what everything does. They are really quite simple in design, but very effective. BTW, your manual will also show you how to measure your cam chain to see if its still within tollerances. Ive worked on more than a dozen of these bikes, and NEVER have seen one out of spec yet. But just to be sure, you might want to measure. As our very own Nessism says, "To measure is to know"
 
alrighty i just ordered the rings and the oil seal from my local shop im going to take it all apart here in a few minutes and adjust the valves all in a days work :) at least i hope then when the rings come in tommaro morning with new intake boots and orings and hex head bolts the bike is gunna look better and hopefully not sound like it does anymore

Thanks again, Jesse
 
well i got all my new seals from a honda dealer he crossed all the numbers for me and tried to offer me 3500 in trade twards a new cbr1000rr for my bike lol but i just took my orings and oil seal and left :( after rebuilding the cam tensioner id say about 80% of the noise from the motor is gone but its still there a little bit could i possibly just go 1.5 turns on the spring instead or the stock 1 turn tight to make up the little difference? if i am speaking jibberish let me know
Thanks Jesse
 
Jesse002100 said:
well i got all my new seals from a honda dealer he crossed all the numbers for me and tried to offer me 3500 in trade twards a new cbr1000rr for my bike lol but i just took my orings and oil seal and left :( after rebuilding the cam tensioner id say about 80% of the noise from the motor is gone but its still there a little bit could i possibly just go 1.5 turns on the spring instead or the stock 1 turn tight to make up the little difference? if i am speaking jibberish let me know
Thanks Jesse
Click to expand...
Have you adjusted the valves yet?? Or checked the clearance?? Sometimes, if they're loose, they'll sound like cam chain noise. Keep in mind these motors arent the quietest in the world either... The set screw should only be about a half turn backed out, your just taking the pressure of it off the tensioner rod...otherwise im not sure what you mean..
 
i mean the spring tension it says one turn tight on the manual but i could get another half turn and that might slack the cam chain up a bit more i understand the set screw holds the tensioner from just shooting into the motor the valve clearances were between .04-.07 so in good order so thats why i ask

Thanks Jesse
 
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