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Valve Adjustment, Need Advice ASAP

  • Thread starter Thread starter huntb
  • Start date Start date
H

huntb

Guest
I just pulled off my valve cover to discover some interesting things (to say the least). First, all of the buckets are filled with oil. Is this normal? See pictures below. Second, the bolts on the camshaft bearing covers are LOOSE as hell! Some looser than others. Obviously this isn't normal right? Does anyone have some advice for me on this? I don't want to leave this cover off any longer than it needs to be.

IMG_20140624_190547.jpg


IMG_20140624_190612.jpg
 
That oil doesn't seem right at all.

Can you see any reason why the bolts are loose? They aren't stripped, are they? Maybe the PO forgot to tighten them :lol: The oil problem might be from the bolt problem.
 
My question is how noisy was it? Where is the chain guide between the cams? What harm will happen if you leave the cover off untill its fixed?
 
The PO replaced the gasket because it was leaking. He also said he adjusted the cam chain tension. So now what? Clean out the oil and tighten the bolts?
 
The oil is not all that unusual.

Torque the head, torque the cam bearings.

Check cam timing.

Check valve clearances.

Adjust as necessary.

Unless it's raining on the bike or you are in the middle of a dust storm, having the cover off is not a problem.

.
 
Steve,

Do the bolts for the cam bearings have to be Loc-tited before torquing them back in?
 
Steve said:
The oil is not all that unusual.

Torque the head, torque the cam bearings.

Check cam timing.

Check valve clearances.

Adjust as necessary.

Unless it's raining on the bike or you are in the middle of a dust storm, having the cover off is not a problem.

.
Click to expand...

Thanks, sounds good. Couple of questions though:

What do you mean by torque the head?

How would I check the timing?
 
BigD_83 said:
Do the bolts for the cam bearings have to be Loc-tited before torquing them back in?
Click to expand...
Don't know if they are supposed to be Loc-tited, but I have never done it.
icon_shrug.gif




huntb said:
What do you mean by torque the head?
Click to expand...
See those nuts along the walls, between the cams? Those are what hold the head and cylinders to the crankcase. Loosen ONE, re-torque it to 27 lb-ft, move to the next one. There is a specified order when starting from a loose head, not sure if that applies when loosening one at a time. :-k

This is recommended on a regular basis (but probably seldom done), and is especially recommended based on the look of your cam bearing bolts.


huntb said:
How would I check the timing?
Click to expand...
The process is outlined quite well in your service manual (you do have one, don't you?), but basically, you remove the ignition cover on the right end of the crank, line up the T1-4 mark, verify that the arrow next to the #1 on the exhaust cam is pointing to the edge of the head, then count 19 pins between the #2 arrow on the exhaust cam and the #3 arrow on the intake cam. Actually, I need to clarify that, the #1 pin is over the #2 arrow on the exhaust cam, the #19 pin is over the #3 arrow, leaving 17 pins between the marks. :o

.
 
Steve said:
Don't know if they are supposed to be Loc-tited, but I have never done it.
icon_shrug.gif





See those nuts along the walls, between the cams? Those are what hold the head and cylinders to the crankcase. Loosen ONE, re-torque it to 27 lb-ft, move to the next one. There is a specified order when starting from a loose head, not sure if that applies when loosening one at a time. :-k

This is recommended on a regular basis (but probably seldom done), and is especially recommended based on the look of your cam bearing bolts.

Edit: I didn't see the two in the middle on each side (makes 12 total) so I did all 12 of them. Also, yes I do have a service manual, guess I should have checked there first



The process is outlined quite well in your service manual (you do have one, don't you?), but basically, you remove the ignition cover on the right end of the crank, line up the T1-4 mark, verify that the arrow next to the #1 on the exhaust cam is pointing to the edge of the head, then count 19 pins between the #2 arrow on the exhaust cam and the #3 arrow on the intake cam. Actually, I need to clarify that, the #1 pin is over the #2 arrow on the exhaust cam, the #19 pin is over the #3 arrow, leaving 17 pins between the marks. :o

.
Click to expand...

You're a savior. Should the bearing bolts be loose when I tighten the head? Also, are there 8 headbolts (4 in the middle, 4 on the outside) or justthe 4 in the middle?
 
Last edited:
OK so here is what I got for timing (see pics). The #1 arrow was not really pointing to the edge of the head but there were 17 pins between the #2 and #3 arrows. Does this look ok?

IMG_20140624_210847.jpg


IMG_20140624_210921.jpg


IMG_20140624_210902.jpg


IMG_20140624_210910.jpg
 
IMO the exhaust cam is off. 1 arrow should be flush with head and 2 arrow up. And I believe you need 22 links between marks.

Edit.. for some reason I thougt yours was a 1k sooo not sure if whatever I said was right. :-)
 
Last edited:
Crank is in the wrong spot. Rotate engine clockwise and line up the 1-4 T mark (to the left of current position).

Torque the cam caps then do the head, all nuts (think there is 16 or something like that. Be sure to back off the nut until it cracks loose before making it up and tightening. Some PB Blaster on the nuts before you do the head is greatly advised.
 
Nessism said:
Crank is in the wrong spot. Rotate engine clockwise and line up the 1-4 T mark (to the left of current position).

Torque the cam caps then do the head, all nuts (think there is 16 or something like that. Be sure to back off the nut until it cracks loose before making it up and tightening. Some PB Blaster on the nuts before you do the head is greatly advised.
Click to expand...

That did it! #1 arrow is lined up with the head and 17 pins between #2 and #3. Thanks for all the help guys
 
huntb said:
Also, are there 8 headbolts (4 in the middle, 4 on the outside) or justthe 4 in the middle?
Click to expand...
There are TWELVE headbolts.

Here ya go, straight from the factory manual:

GS650headbolts_zps2e2ee987.jpg


Oh, I gave you the wrong torque spec. :eek:

I am used to doing 850 and 1000 head bolts, I forgot the 650 has smaller bolts. Torque them to 17.5-19.0 lb-ft, as shown. :o

.
 
Oh wow I'm glad I didn't strip one of those because I torqued them to 27lb-ft. Should I redo them or not worry about it?

So I have good news and bad news from this ordeal:

Good news: Timing checked out good, got my valve clearances checked (only two valves were in spec)

Bad news: When I re-installed the valve cover I stripped one of the bolt holes out. PO must have over tightened them before me when he changed the head gasket because I hardly put any force on it (was using a flex shaft socket screw driver). Can anyone point me in the direction of fixing this? Heli-coil? If so what kit should I get? Its the outer rear right side bolt. All of the others seated fine

Thanks, Ben
 
Are you sure you have the right bolt in there? :-k

There are 14 bolts that are M6x40 and three that are M6x45. Not sure which one is supposed to be in that hole, but if you have one of the short ones there and it's supposed to be a longer one, it would easily strip the one or two threads that it happened to engage.

Yes, a Heli-Coil will do a great job of repairing a stripped hole.
icon_thumbsup.gif


.
 
1/4-20 SAE will go right in and cut it's own threads.
some say potato some say patato...
more comments to come :D

yes dowl holes take the longer bolts...
 
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