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Valve adjustment question.

  • Thread starter Thread starter tipwise
  • Start date Start date
T

tipwise

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Okay, so I ordered my valve cover gasket and in the meantime go to start the adjustment process. I try to get the feeler gauge in on number 1 and exhaust and even the smallest one is too tight. Can't get anything in there so, obviously I need to put smaller shims in right? How do you know what to order and where do I get them? I can see me ordering one shim at a time to only find out I need another size and if this is the case on all 8 valves seems like a pain in the ass. Any suggestions. Never adjusted valves of this design before. Also, what have you found is the best method for removing the shims? thanks
Taylor
 
And yes the cam is in the proper position for checking exhaust 1 and 2. I stopped at that and didn't go any further.
 
You answered your own question about needing a thinner shim so you can check the clearance. Z1 Enterprises sells shims and a tool used for extracting them. You can also use a folded over wire tie to help get you started. Do a search for more info on both subjects since this topic comes up all the time.
 
had A kaw with shims,just glad at the time there was a place down the street to get shims.Take your time cause I could have save some time if I had some patience But I dont, ran down to the shop for every valve
 
No need to stop at that point, go ahead and get the rest of the clearances, if you can.

You might find that the rest of them are all in spec and these are the only two you need to change. Either way, once you get all your clearances, use the zip-tie method (you can find that detailed on BassCliff's site), remove your shims ONE AT A TIME, record the thickness, put it back in, continue to the next shim. This way, you may find that you will be able to move some shims around and not have to buy so many.

Of course, you will need a good way to record all these values. Look at the bottom of my sig for more information on that.

.
 
I just did the valve clearances on my '77 GS750. Like Steve said, I went to each valve and turned the engine over to the right cam position and measured the clearances. I only had 1 valve that I could not get a .002" feeling gauge into but I could turn the lifter easily so I figured it must be close. So I removed that shim and looked at the thickness marked on the back of it. I then ordered the shim that is .05mm thinner.

Brian
 
What the heck have I gotten myself into here. I have an '80 550, 20k mi. that I bought out of college, been sitting in my garage 20 years, cleaned the carburetors out three times, finally got it out on the road today, thanks everybody for the help, and now I have to put in valve shims? Can I get a kit? Luckily I have a couple of months, OK five since it's Indiana.

Also, I figured out it's a 550, hmm, (550 what's the point of that...) Anyway, how critical is it that I adjust the valves? They have never been adjusted. I do hear lifter noise when it's idling.

Thanks,

Steve
 
Steve, what part of Indiana? Quite a few of us have the tool and an assortment of shims.
 
Steve314159 said:
Also, I figured out it's a 550, hmm, (550 what's the point of that...) Anyway, how critical is it that I adjust the valves? They have never been adjusted. I do hear lifter noise when it's idling.
Click to expand...
OK, so it's a 550. So what? What is so special about a 550 that does not apply to any of the other sizes?

How critical is valve adjustment? Not critical at all.
bsflag.gif


After all, as the engine runs, the valve seats bed in a little more, taking up what little clearance there is.
As the clearance decreases, the bike gets harder to start when it's cold.
You then join several of the uninformed who think that it needs starter fluid to get going because "it's cold-blooded".
If you don't blow the bike up with the starter fluid, it will run, and keep aggravating you with the hard starting.
Eventually, the valve clearance will decrease even further, actually preventing the valve from sitting on its seat fully, and not allowing proper heat transfer.
This leads to burned valves and a possibly ruined head.
You might be lucky to find a head in decent shape on eBay for a reasonable price,
but if you are not mechanic enough to do a valve adjustment, you don't even want to think about a head replacement. :eek:

Believe me, it's far better to invest a little time every once in a while to check the valves and sync the carbs.
The bike will start sooo much easier and run sooo much smoother, it will almost feel like a new bike.
action-smiley-083.gif


Also, what you think is "lifter noise" probably isn't. There is so little clearance at the lifters and so many other noises, you are probably not hearing the lifters.

.
 
i just changed shims on mine and had the same problem. the smallest feeler gauge i found locally was .038mm. it would not go in under any cam. i used the shim tool to see how far i had to move it to get the blade in. in all cases, a 'pube'. so i estimated like .020 -.025 and plugged into steve's spreadsheet and got shim values.

at first, it looked like i only had to move around several shims to get the new calculated values and i only needed one new shim. i ordered it, and some extras, that were at lower values. for one shipping cost....you know.

it could've been better i guess, with smaller blades, but, in the end, i got them all to take either .038 or .051 blade. i ended up using all the new shims to get these readings.
 
Last edited:
Thanks again for the help. I can do the work, no problem, in fact what got me motivated to get the bike running was fixing up an old Honda Civic, new head gasket, adjusted the valves etc. And thanks for the explanation about the valves. I couldn't figure out why the clearance would be less over time instead of more from the cam or lifter wear.

What I meant about it being a 550 was a bad joke referring to the fact that 850's and up seem to be really a lot more desirable. But it's what I've got and I really like the little thing so that's what it will be.
 
The valves will burn if you don't adjust them.

Valve005.jpg
 
A quick check on the ones the guage won't fit into is to see if the shim/bucket will turn freely with a gentle push. If it does you at least have some clearance and one shim size will do the job. If it doesn't then you will have to either guess at two shim sizes or use a reference shim as suggested. Once you've done it properly the first time and recorded all your shim sizes it will be much easier next time.
 
I just went around the horn and check all clearances. I can't get my smallest feeler gauge in any of them and by smalles I don't mean .3 It's a .038 which is super tight and that one won't even go in so I'm thinking i'm gonna need a bunch of small ones but I don't even know what's currently in there til I get the tool to get these ones out.




Steve said:
No need to stop at that point, go ahead and get the rest of the clearances, if you can.

You might find that the rest of them are all in spec and these are the only two you need to change. Either way, once you get all your clearances, use the zip-tie method (you can find that detailed on BassCliff's site), remove your shims ONE AT A TIME, record the thickness, put it back in, continue to the next shim. This way, you may find that you will be able to move some shims around and not have to buy so many.

Of course, you will need a good way to record all these values. Look at the bottom of my sig for more information on that.

.
Click to expand...
 
tipwise said:
I just went around the horn and check all clearances. I can't get my smallest feeler gauge in any of them and by smalles I don't mean .3 It's a .038 which is super tight and that one won't even go in so I'm thinking i'm gonna need a bunch of small ones but I don't even know what's currently in there til I get the tool to get these ones out.
Click to expand...

You can fashion a shim tool from a zip tie. Do a search. I have adjusted mine multiple times and don't own the tool.
 
Sandy said:
A quick check on the ones the guage won't fit into is to see if the shim/bucket will turn freely with a gentle push. If it does you at least have some clearance and one shim size will do the job. If it doesn't then you will have to either guess at two shim sizes or use a reference shim as suggested. Once you've done it properly the first time and recorded all your shim sizes it will be much easier next time.
Click to expand...


Sandy. Just went through them all again and while i can't get a gauge in there the tappets and shims all rotate with my finger.
 
tipwise said:
Sandy. Just went through them all again and while i can't get a gauge in there the tappets and shims all rotate with my finger.
Click to expand...

That means your clearance isn't "zero" (or less). So you should be able to go one size smaller than whatever is in there, and you probably haven't burned the valves.
 
doctorgonzo said:
You can fashion a shim tool from a zip tie. Do a search. I have adjusted mine multiple times and don't own the tool.
Click to expand...

Just read about the zip tie method however it's a bit confusing. How are you supposed to catch all 8 valves through the spark plug hole and even know what you are doing in there? especially cyl 2 and 3 must be a pain in the ass. I'm also not sure at what position the valve is fully open in relation to the cam lobe to know which one you are putting the zip tie into. Maybe i'm an idiot but it seems tricky.
 
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