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Valve Adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter ericox
  • Start date Start date
E

ericox

Guest
Im finanally getting around to putting the bike back together, i have one question. Im probably going to have a shop adjust my valves for me since i cant seem to get it right and its just a PITA. Anyone know what price range to expect or possibly a good shop in the Bay area (San Jose'ish).

Bike is a 82 gs 750 16valve.

Thanks in advance,

Eric
 
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Recommend you do it yourself. Most folks on this forum wouldn't go to a mechanic if you paid them, so you probably won't have much luck getting a recommendation. But if you are willing to get your hands dirty, they will help you any way they can.

There are lots of recent threads on valve adjusting that you may find very helpful.
 
flyingace said:
Recommend you do it yourself. Most folks on this forum wouldn't go to a mechanic if you paid them, so you probably won't have much luck getting a recommendation. But if you are willing to get your hands dirty, they will help you any way they can.

There are lots of recent threads on valve adjusting that you may find very helpful.
Click to expand...

Take the time and learn how to do it for yourself, I would agree. But that's the bias you'll get here.

What have you found to be such a PITA?
 
A tool is very helpful

A tool is very helpful

My 83 GS750ES has non shim type valves. In order to adjust them you have to loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster which has a 2mm (more or less) square head. Because they are a little below the edge of the head it is a PITA to get anything on them and turn the lock nut. I bought a toll like this one http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/product~pf_id~3279994~dept_id~2118539.asp and it works pretty good. It is a little loose on the adjuster screw. I usually take the feeler gauges that are one size over and under the spec. The one over should not fit. The one under should be loose. The spec one should slide through with a little resistance. If the valve is out loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster about an eighth of a turn and retighten the locknut. Repeat as necessary.

As far as the manual procedure its a little crazy. As I remember you take off the ignition module cover and turn it to the "T" mark and then adjust certain valves. Then turn it to another mark and do some more. One of the problems was that there will be springs that are compressed and it likes to turn off the mark. On some of the valves the cam lobe will be close to the rocker and if you're off the mark you might be adjusting a valve that the cam is starting to open.

Trash all that!! Pull the plugs if thay are in. Start on one end and work to the other side. Before you start each valve turn the crank until the cam lobe is opposite the rocker. Then adjust the valve.

With the tool and this procedure I can get through a sixteen valve head in less than one hour.
 
fgh said:
My 83 GS750ES has non shim type valves. In order to adjust them you have to loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster which has a 2mm (more or less) square head. Because they are a little below the edge of the head it is a PITA to get anything on them and turn the lock nut. I bought a toll like this one http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/product~pf_id~3279994~dept_id~2118539.asp and it works pretty good. It is a little loose on the adjuster screw. I usually take the feeler gauges that are one size over and under the spec. The one over should not fit. The one under should be loose. The spec one should slide through with a little resistance. If the valve is out loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster about an eighth of a turn and retighten the locknut. Repeat as necessary.

As far as the manual procedure its a little crazy. As I remember you take off the ignition module cover and turn it to the "T" mark and then adjust certain valves. Then turn it to another mark and do some more. One of the problems was that there will be springs that are compressed and it likes to turn off the mark. On some of the valves the cam lobe will be close to the rocker and if you're off the mark you might be adjusting a valve that the cam is starting to open.

Trash all that!! Pull the plugs if thay are in. Start on one end and work to the other side. Before you start each valve turn the crank until the cam lobe is opposite the rocker. Then adjust the valve.

With the tool and this procedure I can get through a sixteen valve head in less than one hour.
Click to expand...


I guess i should have also mentioned that time is an issue, as in I have none. :( That being said, i know i will end up dooing it myself just cause thats how i do everything.

Thats just it, that damn little square is the pain. And i was going by the manual or a combo of 2 or 3 manuals. Im not a stranger to engine work, just new overhead cams. Ill try that tool, maybe that will help. Just seemed I always needed an extra hand, or i would get one in adjustment and the other would be out..yadda..yadaa. I assumed the new head i got is the same as the old, the old being the original 82gs750TZ and the new (so to speak) being a 81 750E.

Ill have to look at the new head later to see if it is the same. I think ill do it this way, as i probably should have figured in the first place.

Thanks everyone.

eric
 
ordered the tool today, looks like this is just what i needed.

Thanks again
 
well, i finally got some time to work on it. I have to say, that was much easier than before. That tool is great, just what i needed. thanks for the advice, took bout an hour to get them all adjusted.

got to get her started and do a heat cycle and retorque the heads tonight.

thanks again

eric
 
That looks pretty slick. I bought Suzuki's valve asjust tool, which has a square head like that but has a handle like a screwdriver. When tightening the locknut with the 9mm wrench it had a tendency to turn the adjuster, even with me trying to hold the tool in place (leverage and all that). Looks like it turned out well for ya!
 
Yea it is, it comes with 6 pieces that are all interchangable giving you several different combos. Because of the handle, its real easy to tighten and just spins arond the center tool. One of the best 34 bucks ive spent in a long time.
 
Wonderful! This really psyches me up for adjusting my own. Thanks, guys!
 
Another couple of questions...

Another couple of questions...

Quote: (UncleMike) Wonderful! This really psyches me up for adjusting my own.

Me, Too! But....I'm still a little uncomfortable. Does my 1980 GS750L have shims? If so, how does that all work?

I've seen spring retention tools...is that necessary? (Nobody mentioned that.)

J_C mentioned that Suzuki valve adjustment tool (which is cheap). Is it reasonable just to use that instead of the Motion Pro deluxe set?

I just don't want to try it if there's a chance I'll screw it up.:oops:

Thanks, guys!:)
 
I looked at the microfiche for your bike... it LOOKS like you have the same type of non-shim setup... I'm almost positive of it but you better ask someone else because I don't want it on my head :)

Yes the suzuki tool is cheap (like 5 bucks) and it works. For the price it's a very easy way to go. Of course, something like that tappet wrench would have been easier to work with I think, but the suzi tool gets the job done. You may just need to try each one a couple times to get it lined up well enough that the wrench doesnt torque the adjuster out of spec (The final little torque on the nut will move the adjuster knob as well, so try and estimate)

It really isn't that hard, I did mine for the first time last night and it only took me like 45 mins
 
I would suggest the motion pro set, although i havent actually tried the suzuki one. As far as screwing it up, its not that hard. espicially if you stick to the description that fgh mentioned. I cant vouch for the shims being in your bike or not, but im sure if ou do a search there will be tons of stuff on it.

What i can suggest for you to do:


  • Stuff a rag in the cam chain hole (you drop a razer blade in there you gotta pull the oil pan)
  • get a good feeler guage that has .006, .005, .004, .003 thicknesses
  • Before you take the cover off, clean the bike off so dirt wont be a problem
  • Take your time
  • Ask questions if you are not sure

You are never going to learn if you dont try, right.

eric
 
chuckycheese said:
Quote: (UncleMike) Wonderful! This really psyches me up for adjusting my own.

Me, Too! But....I'm still a little uncomfortable. Does my 1980 GS750L have shims? If so, how does that all work?

I've seen spring retention tools...is that necessary? (Nobody mentioned that.)

J_C mentioned that Suzuki valve adjustment tool (which is cheap). Is it reasonable just to use that instead of the Motion Pro deluxe set?

I just don't want to try it if there's a chance I'll screw it up.:oops:

Thanks, guys!:)
Click to expand...
You have threaded adjusters. That makes running valves a breeze.
 
Thanks

Thanks

Many thanks to JC, Eric and Billy!:-D I've done lots of jobs on my bikes over the years but never a valve adjustment. I'm always a little apprehensive the first time around and think I probably over-analyze before trying a new one.8-[

Any other tips would be much appreciated...thanks, again, guys!:-D (By the way, did any of you notice a difference in the way your bike runs after you made the adjustments????? If so, in what way??)
 
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chuckycheese said:
Many thanks to JC, Eric and Billy!:-D I've done lots of jobs on my bikes over the years but never a valve adjustment. I'm always a little apprehensive the first time around and think I probably over-analyze before trying a new one.8-[

Any other tips would be much appreciated...thanks, again, guys!:-D
Click to expand...
I can post images from my manual if it will help you. Just don't want the site or me to run into copyright infringement problems. Might be safer legally to email them to you.
 
chuckycheese said:
Many thanks to JC, Eric and Billy!:-D I've done lots of jobs on my bikes over the years but never a valve adjustment. I'm always a little apprehensive the first time around and think I probably over-analyze before trying a new one.8-[

Any other tips would be much appreciated...thanks, again, guys!:-D (By the way, did any of you notice a difference in the way your bike runs after you made the adjustments????? If so, in what way??)
Click to expand...

No problem.

I didnt really notice much except for less valve clatter when the bike is cold
 
Thanks

Thanks

Well, thanks again to all...I ordered that little tool for $5.39, (which surprised me very much) and I'll report back how it all goes...(and, perhaps, have more questions!!)8-[

We shall see.....but I'm eager to give it a whirl![-o<
 
I wonder if mine is shims or threaded adjuster. If it's the threaded setup, I'm no longer dreading adjusting the valves. Shims are a pain in the butt.
 
not sure, but my head came off of a 81 750E and it has the non-shim style.
 
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