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Valve Cladder

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Hi everyone,
I just got a 83 GS650L with only 5,500 miles. It is really clean, but when I bought it, it was running really lean, and their was a little bit of a cladder in the valves. The lean part I think I can fix by rebuilding tha carbs and upping tha main jet a size or two ( I am in the middle of rebuilding them). But I don't know what to do about the cladder. Do I need to do a valve adjustment ( if so how do I get the shims, and how do I know the sizes) ? Or do I just need to do a couple of good Hot oil changes(it sat for quite a while) ?Any ways your suggestions are more than welcomed.
Josh
 
The valve cladder (clatter?) you mention , is most likely valve clearances, but a couple of rapid oil and filter changes cant hurt!! To do the valve clearances first with the engine cold measure all valve clearances and write them down (in order, number one cylinder is on the left when seated on the bike, so note them as #1 inlet, #1 exhaust etc.) BTW do this with the engine stone cold. then you need to remove each valves shim and write down its size as well, in order. You will often find that swapping a shim from one valve to another will bring it with in range and reduce the number of shims you need to purchase, you then purchase the shims you need and insert them, fortunately this is not a procedure that needs repeating often, a few members have reported not having to do them again for a very long time. If you find all this a bit daunting I suggest leaving it to a pro, as valve clearances was one of the last things I ever attempted myself.
Dink
 
Despite Dink's misgivings valve adjustmants aren't hard, just time consuming.
You will need a valve depresser tool (about $30.00) and feeler gauges that go down to .03 mm or .0012 inches. The feeler gauge is something you can get from Suzuki. I will get you the part numbers when I go home tonight. The valve depresser is an after-market item. Don't try to buy the one from Suzuki, they want $130.00 for it, and it is the same as the after-market item. The shims can be ordered from your Suzuki dealer and usually run about $10.00 each. As Dink said, juggling the shims you have can reduce the numberof new shims you need. Some times you can trade a good used shim that you can't use for a good used shim that you can, if the mechanic at your dealer is willing.

Harrison
 
Also, post here. Some of us have spare shims lying around we might trade.
 
Scotty wrote:

Does the head have to be removed to do the shims???
Click to expand...
_________________


Boy that would be a bummer!
Nah Scotty, just the valve cover.
with the camlobe straight up, stick a feeler gage over the shim
and measure the clearance. You can pick them right out at that point
if the clearence isn't within spec.
I just hate scrapeing and replacing the gasket every time.
It's definitely the worst part of the job.
I think I'll go to one of those reuseable silicone gaskets
Hap was talking about.
Gods Peace
Mo
 
slopoke said:
Does the head have to be removed to do the shims???
Click to expand...

Scotty, Scotty. I just can't pass this one up. It depends where your head is.
There are certain portions of your anatomy that if your head is firmly inserted you will find it very difficult to remove the shims even with the removal tool.

But if you remove your head, first the job proceeds fairly easily. :lol: :lol:

Mike
 
So are you saying that I don't have to remove the cams? I can just rotate them till I can get to the shims? :?:
 
You need a gadget to push the valves in. This lets you pull the shims out, it isn't like the other brands where the cam shafts have to come out.

Steve
 
Anybody know where I can get that tool to depress the valves?


Josh
 
That is correct, you do NOT remove the cams. Yes, rotate the engine until the cam lobe is perpendicular to the head on the valve you are checking.
You will need the shim tool/depressor to be able to remove the shims.
I bought mine at
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/valve_shims.htm
I've delt with these people for a long time and they are great!

Earl

kingoftheroad said:
So are you saying that I don't have to remove the cams? I can just rotate them till I can get to the shims? :?:
Click to expand...
 
Is this the tool I need?

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm[/img]
 
Couldn't the lean mixture have been causing the valve cladder due to high head temp.

Maybe clean up the carbs and see what happens before pulling the valve cover.
 
Will do,
I should have the carbs back on within the next two weeks. Thanks for that idea. I didn't think of that.

josh
[/quote]
 
Loose valves are unlikely in your motor unless someone previously set them too loose. With your valve configuration, the valves get tighter with wear. I have seen quite a few GS650s that have had the cam chain tensioner gum up and stop working. Since you have the carbs off, it is very easy to access. When the tensioner is out, DO NOT rotate the motor. Disassemble the tensioner, clean it with kerosene or brake cleaner, check for worn parts, reassemble it correctly, reset and install it correctly (do you have a manual?) and see if that doesn't help.
 
I will do that to. I guess every little thing could help. I'm picking up my manual tomorrow.

Josh
 
It should look like this.

Earl


ValvetoolSuz.JPG





kingoftheroad said:
Is this the tool I need?
Click to expand...
 
The intake clearances usually don't need touching. The exhaust clearances can get smaller. Shims should only need doing every 20-50,oookm once the bike is run in.
 
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