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Valve clearance check

tas850g

tas850g

Forum Mentor
I am checking my valve clearances for the first time. The smallest feeler gauge size that I have is .051mm. After rotating the lobes to the proper position and inserting the gauge between the shim and valve there is no clearance on any of the valves. Isn't the feeler gauge suppose to slide through to the other side with little to no resistance?

I know the clearance specs are between .03 and .08mm. Am i correct in assuming that these are probably much to close and/or my feeler gauge does not go small enough? I thought the .05 would be an ok thickness to start with. I have not gotten the valve shim tool yet so i can not remove the shims to determine the shim's thickness and i really don't want to use the zip tie method.

I got the bike last summer and never really had enough time to check it over as well as I would like to have plus is was stored 3 hours away from where I live. It did run ok but had a bad knock which i was hoping was coming from the valves and not the crank shaft.

Again, a first timer at this so i would rather double check than going off the deep end.
 
I'd go invest in the right size feeler gages...

They might be set at .04mm and all is well...or they might be at .02mm and all is not well....

Later,
 
Feeler gauge should pass with only minimal resistance.
 
Nessism is right, only the slightest resistence if any. Get one that has .04mm, cost all of $6 maybe. Spec is .03, but if .04 won't fit, change the shim. Wouldn't be crazy for all to be out if they haven't been checked in a while.
 
I bought a set of feeler gauges that had a .03 thickness blade from Snap ons online cat for about $6. For me it was a no brainer, no guesswork. I can send you a tool and shims once you get the correct gauge. Check out the shim club, it will save you money. Ray


tas850g said:
I am checking my valve clearances for the first time. The smallest feeler gauge size that I have is .051mm. After rotating the lobes to the proper position and inserting the gauge between the shim and valve there is no clearance on any of the valves. Isn't the feeler gauge suppose to slide through to the other side with little to no resistance?

I know the clearance specs are between .03 and .08mm. Am i correct in assuming that these are probably much to close and/or my feeler gauge does not go small enough? I thought the .05 would be an ok thickness to start with. I have not gotten the valve shim tool yet so i can not remove the shims to determine the shim's thickness and i really don't want to use the zip tie method.

I got the bike last summer and never really had enough time to check it over as well as I would like to have plus is was stored 3 hours away from where I live. It did run ok but had a bad knock which i was hoping was coming from the valves and not the crank shaft.

Again, a first timer at this so i would rather double check than going off the deep end.
Click to expand...
 
There is also no need to wait for the 'proper' shim tool. You can use the 'zip-tie' method, it works quite well.

.
 
Yes, i would like to join the shim club. I've read some about the club and will pm you when i know what i need. I have Steve's shim excel spread sheet that will help me determine what sizes i need.

I bought a craftsman gauge last night and the smallest, i think, they went was .05 but i'll check again. I guess one can't have enough feeler gauges. I was thinking that if .05 doesn't fit then i may want to go with a bigger gap b/c what i've read is you would rather be lose than tight for clearance.

I thought the gauge should slide through. It bends if i attempt to slide it through any further. I don't think i'm hitting the back side but there is still oil in there so i don't see the other end of the gauge. I'll do it again tonight.

I'll read the article i printed out from Basscliff's website again about the zip tie method. I don't recall anything other than just sticking in the kinked zip tie into the plug hole. I'll read it again.

Thanks for the advice, i need it.
 
"I was thinking that if .05 doesn't fit then i may want to go with a bigger gap b/c what i've read is you would rather be lose than tight for clearance."

With a .05 thats probably pushing it. That's the philosophy many of us take with a .04. The consensus (at least among some) is that you are good out to .1mm, but larger than that you risk spitting a shim. So if you were JUST under that .05 say .049 and the shim was just off from the size stamped on it, say really 2.64 not the 2.65 stamped on it and the one you swapped out was really 2.71 not the 2.70 stamped on it... you see where I'm headed. Could all add up to dangerously big gap. Not very likely I admit, but the reason I use .04 not .05.
 
+1 for the zip tie method!! I'll never use a tool again. its so easy and fast, you can do 2 at once. all without scarring up your motor,too.
 
I read the method on how to use zip ties to remove shims. It seems like you should/have to recheck valve clearances after putting the bike back together and going for a ride b/c of the chance of carbon deposits being left in the shim bucket. Does this really need to be done? If i used the shim tool then you woud avoid disassembling and re-assembling the valve cover again.

I'm really not trying to make this procedure more difficult than it should be but i don't want to repeat the process of checking the valve clearances again if i don't have to by using the shim tool in the first place.

I am going to try the zip tie method tomorrow and see how it goes.
 
I disagree with the "minimal resistance theme". There is quite a bit of drag on a feeler gauge blade when adjustment is correct. This becomes moot though if you use the 'go-no-go' method, wherein you get the right set of feelers, and if the one too big has minimal resistance, the one too small will not go in, and the correct one slips in with a very perceptible drag, you are bang on.
Sometimes you have to take the feeler blade and hold it in your fingers close to the valve stem to keep it square to the valve stem.
There are a lot of variables to setting valves. The feeler can be tilted and create drag. The feeler can be rusty or dinged. etc. There can be operator error, in other words.
It is better to have the adjustment loose. This is because a loose adjustment leaves the valve closed for a longer period of time, and during this time the heat in the valve face escapes into the head, leading to a cooler running engine. Loose valves click and some people don't like that. And if you are way loose the engine may not breath correctly.
If all the valves seem 'closed' when you think they should be open, consider the possibility that you may have the cams in the 'wrong' position, or 180 degrees out.
Valve adjustment is critical on an air cooled engine,. If your valves are tight, they burn, and that is expensive. So take your time. There is nothing wrong with valves being a little bit loose, which they will be if you choose to read the adjustment as being 'right' when there is 'no drag' on the feeler guage, but you will experience a better running engine if you get it right.
S.
 
Not that i know everything or anything about valve clearances because i don't have the knowledge and experience as many, if not all responses but I totally agree with you Silverhorse. This comes from everything i have read in GSR. As long as i'm within the specs and a bit on the medium to high side then i'll be okay.
 
tas850g said:
Not that i know everything or anything about valve clearances because i don't have the knowledge and experience as many, if not all responses but I totally agree with you Silverhorse. This comes from everything i have read in GSR. As long as i'm within the specs and a bit on the medium to high side then i'll be okay.
Click to expand...

Yes, correct, that's why as we said, most people use a .04 (well and because that's the lowest size on many common feeler gauages). .03 is spec, but if it's close enough to the lower end of spec that a .04 won't fit, then change the shim because it's better to be a bit loose, up to a point.
 
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