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Valve Clearance Spec

  • Thread starter Thread starter roachdoggs1100
  • Start date Start date
R

roachdoggs1100

Guest
Hello all,
What is the valve clearance for a 1982 gs1100e? I have seen varying specs online; anyone have FOR SURE numbers for intake and exhaust?
I eventually will get a manual, but for now i just need to do this, and i have the time tomorrow.

Since my bike is a chain drive, i should expect 16 valves with rockers correct? Or will i have 8 with the damn shims...?

Thanks!
 
roachdoggs1100 said:
Since my bike is a chain drive, i should expect 16 valves with rockers correct? Or will i have 8 with the damn shims...?
Click to expand...
There is nothing "damn" about shims. :-\\\

They don't have a locknut that might rattle loose.

They don't seem to need as much adjustment, nor as often.

The method of driving the rear wheel has very little to do with valve acutation.

ALL of the GS bikes through the '78 model year had chains AND shims.

Shaft drive started in '79 with the 850, thankfully, all shafties continued with shims.

Your bike happens to have 4 valves per cylinder, THAT is what decides whether you have shims. (you don't)

All the specs and procedures are in the manual or in the links in your "welcome page".

.
 
Steve said:
There is nothing "damn" about shims. :-\\\QUOTE]

I guess there's shim people and then there's rocker people, and both shims and rockers have their positives and negatives. But you don't have to go out and acquire a shim should you need one or two to adjust a rocker or play with tie straps or the shim tool. They're just easier to adjust with rockers, just make sure that lock nut is tight!
Click to expand...
 
Thanks everyone for all the info, i must have missed the info on the greeting, sorry.

I guess there's shim people and then there's rocker people, and both shims and rockers have their positives and negatives. But you don't have to go out and acquire a shim should you need one or two to adjust a rocker or play with tie straps or the shim tool. They're just easier to adjust with rockers, just make sure that lock nut is tight!
Click to expand...
That is exactly why i like rockers and not shims. I had a gs500, and those shims will add up quick in cost if you happen to need nearly all of them. My valve adjustment then with the tool, was around 50$... With rockers and adjusters = 0$

Thanks again for the info fellas.
 
Hey guys, i took the valve cover off just now, and set it to tdc as per the manual you guys hooked it up with. So with the rotor at the timing mark, the cams should be in the "C" position, but mine look a little off. Im not sure if it is correct and just not super precise, or if both my cams are off one tooth.

Can someone plz verify this is correct?
TDC.jpg

Cams.jpg


And this is why my bike costed me only 400$, nothing a little hts2000 and aluminum plate can't fix,
BrokenCase.jpg


Thanks all.
 
Last edited:
You want us to look at those crappy photos and tell you if the cams are timed right? I don't think so.

You need macro shot of the crank with the 1-4 T mark lined up.

Good clean photo showing the 1-- mark on the exhaust cam

Good clean photo showing how many pin links between the 2-- and 3-- mark on the cams.

Post these photos and then we can tell you. It's a simple matter really, all is in the Suzuki service manual (which you can download for free from Basscliff's website).
 
when I get home ill get u some better photos. I guess a better question, is from experience, are the cam notches exactly parallel to the cylinder head surface or are they very slightly angled.
 
The notches should be pointing at each other, not away, when timing the cams.
 
So i decided i would try to see if i could get the cams better oriented. I set the bottom end to tdc for No. 1 and got the cam notches exactly parallel with the valve cover surface like in the manual. I turned the motor by hand about 4 times, and no hangin' up, so im good to go to the valve adjustment. Now i just need to find a damn 9mm wrench.
 
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