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Valve measurements

Well I got them all out so now it's time to swap shims. Can use 3 of the 8. I have definitely not mastered the shim tool. I used vice grips coming from the side to allow me to apply some force to resist twisting while pulling the handle down but it only worked occasionally. I cursed that tool but really blame the narrow edge on my shim bucket. Maybe I should blame Edna's Vetter also. Thanks for the encouragement. Jim M
 
That sounds much vetter than leaving it on. Thank you! Thank you! :D Oh man I can't wait until I'm back working tomorrow (I bet the rest of you can't either)!

She will be here all night folks, and don't forget to tip your waitress.:cool:
 
Well I got them all out so now it's time to swap shims. Can use 3 of the 8. I have definitely not mastered the shim tool. I used vice grips coming from the side to allow me to apply some force to resist twisting while pulling the handle down but it only worked occasionally. I cursed that tool but really blame the narrow edge on my shim bucket. Maybe I should blame Edna's Vetter also. Thanks for the encouragement. Jim M

I was gonna get the tool but it seems to be more of a pain in the rear than the zip ties.
 
I like the tool pretty well. Haven't tried the zip tie method.
 
Well I got them all out so now it's time to swap shims. Can use 3 of the 8. I have definitely not mastered the shim tool. I used vice grips coming from the side to allow me to apply some force to resist twisting while pulling the handle down but it only worked occasionally. I cursed that tool but really blame the narrow edge on my shim bucket. Maybe I should blame Edna's Vetter also. Thanks for the encouragement. Jim M

Words of caution: Do NOT rotate the cams without all the shims in place, you will damage the cams and buckets. Please tell us you knew this already.:pray:
 
First time zip tie method

First time zip tie method

Hello,

armored with a zip tie, I tried the valve measuring method described on the Basscliff site two days ago (first timer). It didn't work as I kept on poking the zip tie in the cilinder without getting it to stick above the valve head.

Then the famous Mr. Steve gave me a very important hint: you can use electrical tape to keep the zip tie from 'ballooning' - as he called it - so that the zip tie part that disappears in the cilinder is kept rather flat. VERY IMPORTANT TIP, as otherwise it is practically impossible to move the zip tie above the valve head, there is not enough room between the cilinder head and the valve...

In the 'valve tool zip tie method', described on Basscliff's site, it is specified that you need to fold the zip tie 13 mm (1/2") from the front. For me, it worked better with a smaller fold (8 - 10 mm) as this smaller part was more easily slipped above the valve...

I'm adding a picture Mr. Steve made (hey, I live in Belgium...what the hell is 'copyright') showing the position you need to strive for when inserting the zip tie method.

Yesterday, I re-tried, and was able to do the complete job (8 valves) in half an hour...thanks, Mr. Steve...
 
by the way,
the result was rather 'shocking'...

7 valves measured too small, 1 exhaust valve larger than 0.15 mm...


best regards

gert
 
Yes, I did avoid rotating the cam with a shim out. I just hope I didn't mar the buckets too much with repeated slip-offs with the tool. I will try the zip tie method when I get the replacement shims. All shims are back in temporarily now and I'm riding my 'Cade and kleting the 1100 rest. Thank, Jim M
 
She will be here all night folks, and don't forget to tip your waitress.:cool:

Lucky you folks the air is not working yet at the college so they cancelled classes until next week - I heard my room was over 90 degrees yesterday. You're stuck with me for another week. It's probably vetter this way.
 
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