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Valve Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter 427cobra
  • Start date Start date
4

427cobra

Guest
Well I got my motor back together. I checked my valve clearances and I couldnt get my .03mm feeler gauge under any of them!

This bike probably never saw a mechanic. SOO... where do I go from here? I rotated the motor until the narrow end of the cam was facing up. Then tried sliding the feeler gauge between the cam and shim...??

Did I do something wrong? So any help/suggestions would be great.

I had the bike running before the teardown. But didnt check valve clearances before dis assembly.

Thanks!
 
Sorry to scold but this topic comes up all the time and you will find the answer in the archives.

Bottom line is you need shims thinner than those currently installed. Remove each shim one by one and take an inventory. Do not rotate the engine without all the shims installed. You may be able to move shims around from valve to valve but in the end you will need a few thinner ones. We can't tell you what sizes but figure on having enough shims to step each down each valve one or two numbers. Shims are cheap - $5 at Z1 Enterprises. Stock up. Oh, and please follow the factory method for positioning the cams. Positioning them the way you have is okay, but not ideal - you will get slightly different readings following the Suzuki method as shown in the service manual.
 
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I would only add that you keep track of all the shim sizes in your manual in the notes section. That way you could anticipate the sizes that you may need when you check it in a year or two and be ready to just slip them in and away you go!

Good luck
 
Well I got my motor back together. I checked my valve clearances and I couldnt get my .03mm feeler gauge under any of them!

This bike probably never saw a mechanic. SOO... where do I go from here? I rotated the motor until the narrow end of the cam was facing up. Then tried sliding the feeler gauge between the cam and shim...??

Did I do something wrong? So any help/suggestions would be great.

I had the bike running before the teardown. But didnt check valve clearances before dis assembly.

Thanks!

If the .03mm wont fit, try to turn the shim in the bucket by hand. If it spins easily, there is at least a tiny bit of clearance, one size thiner shim should put you at about .05 or more, within limits. If the shim won't spin easily, there is no clearance, try two sizes thinner as a start. If this is the case there may be burnt valves, check the compression afterwards to find out.
 
There's a chance that you got head and/or base gaskets a bit thinner than stock.
 
This bike probably never saw a mechanic. SOO... where do I go from here?
Did I do something wrong? So any help/suggestions would be great.

Thanks!


my response is; the engine still hasn't seen a mechanic.

my suggestion is to get the clearances wider and recheck the rest of your work. everything you touched is suspect in my opinion.

not checking something that simple (and drasticly important) before teardown or when it is on the bench is on the border of--, well..., for lack of a more polite word.... ignorant.

too bad if you don't like my opinion but I guess some guys do like to do things 2 or 3 maybe 4 times.
 
Well I will admit this is my first time working on a motorcycle engine. So I am learning as I go.

I bought the bike from the original owner..and I dont think he did any maintenance besides oil changes and spark plug replacement.

I don't think it stated to check clearances before removing the head in the manual....SO Ill blame that on the manual..:-\\\

I dont see what I would have gained by checking before hand anyway?? You would still check clearances AFTER the rebuild to get things dialed in correctly..??

Ill get this thing figured out. Thanks for the help and advice.
 
If you lapped the valves, they are probably are tighter than before the tear down. You may be fine when you swap some shims. Ray
 
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