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Valve Seal Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter jake12
  • Start date Start date
J

jake12

Guest
This is my first engine rebuild, so bear with me!

I am rebuilding a gs1100g, and when I got it running, it had significant smoking out the tailpipes. I dont think it was your usual "burning off the crap" smoke, it was very thick and obviously oil. After concluding that it was the rings, I tore down the engine to the cyllinders and discovered that the rings are indeed nearly perfect. no cracks or breaks. cyllinder walls look perfect too. Long story short, my next assumption is that the oil burning was due to the valve stem seals. After removing my first valve, i am not sure how to actually remove the seal without damaging it... it seems stuck in there good, and I am not sure exactly how they are "atached" in there. Any veterans know how to safely remove and replace the seals? (I already have the replacement seals ready to go.)
 
it wont hurt if you damage the seal removing it as you are replacing it anyway. just grab it with some long nose pliers, twist and pull.
to refit the new ones, smear inside with grease and push on, over the top of the guides. making sure they seat properly
 
I assume you did the oil control rings properly on the cylinders, could you have overfilled the engine with oil?

As for the seals, you won't get them off intact, they will be torn up. The new ones should be seated with a 10mm deep socket over the valve stem, using it as a guide. Tap it down gently until you feel it seat.

Test the seal by pulling the valve out with your finger over the hole. The intake valves should bounce back in and make a pop when withdrawn. This is critical to maintain the engine vacuum.
The exhaust side will be looser, the valve stem gets real hot and seals better, the exhaust also does not have vacuum on the seals.
 
When he says tap em' on lightly he means LIGHTLY. It is easy to drive them on too far and have the rubber rip through the brass. Learned that one the hard way, man that sucked!
 
matt1100 said:
When he says tap em' on lightly he means LIGHTLY. It is easy to drive them on too far and have the rubber rip through the brass. Learned that one the hard way, man that sucked!
Click to expand...

bit of grease or oil to lube them you can push them on with your thumb.....
 
Awesome thats exactly what I wanted to hear. I pulled pretty hard with the needle nosed, i just wanted to make sure i wasnt gonna break something in the process!

Also, when I reassemble everything, am i correct in assuming that TDC on #1 doesnt have a "compression stroke" since the came are off? Am I right that as long as i put the cams on in "compression stroke layout" it doesnt matter if it is the same stroke as it originally was?

Thanks everyone
 
You should really download and study a factory manual from Cliff's site. It will illustrate the process of setting the timing very clearly,
 
Be careful you don't pull too hard and break a valve guide! I speak from experience... Someone on here used a torch to heat them up and burn out the rubber, if I were to do it again that's the way I'd do it.
 
WShie said:
Be careful you don't pull too hard and break a valve guide! I speak from experience... Someone on here used a torch to heat them up and burn out the rubber, if I were to do it again that's the way I'd do it.
Click to expand...

Do believe that was Eric Bang, thread out there somewhere?
 
Crazy_Russian said:
has anyone done them without taking the head off?
Click to expand...

Yes indeed there was, can't remember how long ago it was, but I didn't think he could do it. He was talking about taking a rope and feeding it through a spark plug hole then turning the enging over to hold the valve in place, then used some fabricated PVC to depress the valve spring and then changed out the valve seal. Perhaps someone will dig up that thread and post it here.
 
i was just thinking presurise the chamber with compressed air
 
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