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Valve shims

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G

Guest

Guest
This is my first valve adjustment try. Do I get an asortment of shims before I start in case I need them. Or figure out what I need, then have to order them and leave the bike sit apart waiting for the shim order to come in. How is this done, Please.
 
valve adjustment on GS500

valve adjustment on GS500

This is my first valve adjustment try. Do I get an asortment of shims before I start in case I need them. Or figure out what I need, then have to order them and leave the bike sit apart waiting for the shim order to come in. How is this done, Please.
Also on the GStwin site they take the Carbs off. Do they have to come off?
 
Hi,

Which 1980 GS1000 are we talking about? G? E? L? S?

Either way, your carbs do not have to come off. What we need to know is if you have an 8-valve shaft drive model or a 16-valve chain model. If you have a 16 valve engine it doesn't use shims.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
2005 gs500f

2005 gs500f

Hi,

Which 1980 GS1000 are we talking about? G? E? L? S?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
It's my 2005 GS500F I want to check the valves on. But you know what? I have no idea what letter is at the end of my 1980 GS1000. When I order stuff I just get it for a ET.:)
 
This is my first valve adjustment try. Do I get an asortment of shims before I start in case I need them. Or figure out what I need, then have to order them and leave the bike sit apart waiting for the shim order to come in. How is this done, Please.
No need to get anything before you know what you need.

Unless you have a burning itch to spend a LOT of money.

If you need the bike for transportation, check your clearances, put the bike together, ride it while your shims are on the way. If you have a project bike, delaying it another week for the shims is no big deal. Just be sure to order a new valve cover gasket, too.

New shims are cheapest at Z1, they are $5.28 each.
You can also lookk into joining the "shim club" here on the forum. Do a ssearch for "ghostGS1", look at his signature or profile, there is information there on how to join. I have no idea what finances are involved, I just know the "club" exists.



Also on the GStwin site they take the Carbs off. Do they have to come off?
They don't need to come off an any of the earlier bikes, I can't imagine why they would need to on yours.



Which 1980 GS1000 are we talking about? G? E? L? S?

Either way, your carbs do not have to come off. What we need to know is if you have an 8-valve shaft drive model or a 16-valve chain model. If you have a 16 valve engine it doesn't use shims.
Were there any 16-valve 1000s? I thought all the 16-valve models were 750 or 1100s. :-k



I have no idea what letter is at the end of my 1980 GS1000. When I order stuff I just get it for a ET.:)
OK, the last letter that BassCliff was asking about would be "E". The "T" at the very end is the 1980 model year designation.

.
 
Hi,

Pardon my confusion, Mr. mike10. I thought we were talking about the motorcycle in your signature file.

I believe you are correct, Mr. Steve. The 1980-81 GS1000 was an 8-valve motor.

I'll hang up on myself now.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
There was a one year only ? GS 1000 Katana 81? was a 16 valve motor
 
Hi Mr. mike10,

I found this on some guy's website:


Kerry Burton of GStwin.com has put together a very informative video chronicling the process of valve adjustment on his GS500. The procedure will be the same for all GS twins. The principle is the same for all 2-valve GS motors.

CLICK HERE to go to the Google video.




Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff
 
Thank you

Thank you

Hi Mr. mike10,

I found this on some guy's website:


Kerry Burton of GStwin.com has put together a very informative video chronicling the process of valve adjustment on his GS500. The procedure will be the same for all GS twins. The principle is the same for all 2-valve GS motors.

CLICK HERE to go to the Google video.




Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff
On GSTwin I only found this guy from spain showing how to check valves. and he took off the Carbs. Thanks, Mike
 
I'm lost

I'm lost

Google search: Suzuki GS500 valve adjustment - first hit... http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363#
I went to that site, but I can't get the video to play. So I took mine apart anyway . And .0015mm or .038 mm both numbers on the same blade. Is the only size I can get between the lob and shim. On both Intake valves. I wonder if I have the right feeler gadge its metric.:eek: It needs to be 0.03 - 0.08 to be with in tolerance.
 
Hi,

On the feeler gauge you have, the .0015 number is inches and the .038 number is millimeters. While .038mm is in spec (within tolerance), it's on the low end and will be too tight soon.

I would recommend getting a real metric feeler gauge. I think it would save confusion. (Well, it does for me anyway.)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thank You

Thank You

Hi,

On the feeler gauge you have, the .0015 number is inches and the .038 number is millimeters. While .038mm is in spec (within tolerance), it's on the low end and will be too tight soon.

I would recommend getting a real metric feeler gauge. I think it would save confusion. (Well, it does for me anyway.)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
I will get a new gauge. I'm working on joining the shim club. Thanks again, Mike
 
Real Metric feeler Gauge

Real Metric feeler Gauge

I my have to ride up to Canada to get one can't find any around here.
 
You don't have to go to Canada, Pep Boys auto supply has real metric feeler gauges for about $5.
 
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