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valves and springs and shims... oh my..

mvalenti

mvalenti

Forum Mentor
Well im considering replacing all of the above. and while I'm at it clean up the valve cover.. I may even re-ring and hone cylinders... Google wasnt friendly to me today and I'm having a hard time locating the parts, specifically the valves.Any help would be well... helpful.

-Mark
 
truthfully, I havnt looked in there yet. Saw some puffs of smoke from the #4 exhaust pipe yesterday toward the end of a 60 mile ride and got nervous. I have put off checking/adjusting my shims because the weather has been so good. I think I will check the clearences today, and have some piece of mind, or a nervous breakdown, whichever comes first.

thanks guys
Mark
 
The key to correct diagnosis of potential problems is firstly to have as much information available as possible, rather than randomly throwing money at replacing parts that may be perfectly OK.

So first start with measuring / setting valve clearances, so that you know there are no valves with little / no clearance that will affect compression. Record all your readings.

Then measure compression using the correct method (warm engine; wide open throttle; all plugs removed; good battery). Add a little thin oil to one cylinder at a time through the spark plug hole, and re-measure the compression for each cylinder. Record all your readings.

Then compare your readings to specifications for your engine in the workshop manual. Depending upon how far out of specification your readings are, then you can start narrowing down the real cause of any potential problem.

By following a structured, logical diagnostic program and recording all results, you will end up knowing exactly what you are dealing with compared to the OEM specifications. You will save money by not randomly replacing parts that may still be serviceable (eg. by lapping valve sealing faces, you will still get long service out of them, provided they are not burnt to a crisp from riding with zero valve clearance).
 
2BRacing said:
The key to correct diagnosis of potential problems is firstly to have as much information available as possible, rather than randomly throwing money at replacing parts that may be perfectly OK.

So first start with measuring / setting valve clearances, so that you know there are no valves with little / no clearance that will affect compression. Record all your readings.

Then measure compression using the correct method (warm engine; wide open throttle; all plugs removed; good battery). Add a little thin oil to one cylinder at a time through the spark plug hole, and re-measure the compression for each cylinder. Record all your readings.

Then compare your readings to specifications for your engine in the workshop manual. Depending upon how far out of specification your readings are, then you can start narrowing down the real cause of any potential problem.

By following a structured, logical diagnostic program and recording all results, you will end up knowing exactly what you are dealing with compared to the OEM specifications. You will save money by not randomly replacing parts that may still be serviceable (eg. by lapping valve sealing faces, you will still get long service out of them, provided they are not burnt to a crisp from riding with zero valve clearance).
Click to expand...

This should be a sticky! Perform maintenance. Followed structured and logical analysis. Measure don't assume. Wish more people around here would do this sort of thing.:cool:
 
Well, pulled the valve cover off, as feared my valves are tight.. Could only measure 1 of the exhaust shims.0025, and 2 of my intake, .0015 and .002....
 
Plus, that puff of smoke is most likely hard valve stem seals, which you can replace without taking the head off. If the oil consumption isn't very high, you can put that off until winter

You seem determined to do thing in the most difficult way possible


Stop torturing your bike, you'll like it even more once you've cured it ails
 
Going to adjust the valves first and see where I am. I had low numbers when I did a compression test a month back.
 
If you have to go through the head, based on the number of heads that go through our shop, I don't believe you will need valves.

Stem wear is not usually an issue with these Suzukis. Only reason to replace a valve would be if you bent one, and if you did, the lash wouldn't be tight.

They will tighten up with years of pounding on the seats, but that can all be made good with machining.

I would assume, at most, you might need guides and seals. The rest would be labor.
 
Big Jay said:
If you have to go through the head, based on the number of heads that go through our shop, I don't believe you will need valves.

Stem wear is not usually an issue with these Suzukis. Only reason to replace a valve would be if you bent one, and if you did, the lash wouldn't be tight.

They will tighten up with years of pounding on the seats, but that can all be made good with machining.

I would assume, at most, you might need guides and seals. The rest would be labor.
Click to expand...


Jay,

What valve to guide clearance do you recommend for 8V GS engines running your bronze guides?
 
We usually run the intakes at .0008 / .001 and the exhaust .001 / .0013

We install the guide, then hone it to the Serdi pilot we will use that is based on the valve stem size.
 
BTW, once I get my valve shims in order (hope it cures the low compression numbers 115,90,95,105), synch and sort the carbs, can I expect a power/torque increase as well? She's no slouch now..

TIA
-Mark
 
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