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VM26 pilot screws broken

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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OK that makes sense Keith. So the question then is since I removed the plugs, can I put regular pointed pilot fuel screws in there now and use these carbs? I'd like to if I can. They should be the same as my other carbs at this point now right?

Also Keith, if you would be so kind, please post in my tip thread about this and explain it the way you know it. I will then reference it from my first post so that new readers can see it and make the determination before modifying their carburetors.

Thx :)
 
I can't be certain that the holes haven't been enlarged or damaged by the plugging procedure, and the couple of carbs I ran across that were plugged I just passed them up. So I've never tried it. I'm not saying these carbs won't work if you install sharp tipped screws, I'm saying they could be damaged and cause problems. You may think that if the holes really WERE enlarged that turning the screws in just a bit more would compensate for that, but I hate expereiments.
As I've found out before, you're going to do what you want and I try to understand that. You're trying to learn, and I'm just trying to give advice.
As for posting the extra info at the other topic, if you can, tell me how to without me re-typing and I'll try. I don't know how to post links or whatever you call it. If it can be explained easy enough (click this, click that) I'd like to learn.
By the way, at E-bay right now, a guy is selling what he says is a '77 GS1000/GS1000E owners manual. It looks like a '78 to me. Couldn't be much difference. I don't have the item # because I just thought of it, but just type in "Suzuki GS1000" and it's in there. I think there's about 2 days to go and no bids yet when I saw it.
 
Keith,

I know what you mean about the longer replies. I've copied some of my longer tips into a Word document so I can just go to it and paste the info into the forum. Saves alot of effort.
 
Billy Ricks said:
Keith,

I know what you mean about the longer replies. I've copied some of my longer tips into a Word document so I can just go to it and paste the info into the forum. Saves alot of effort.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good idea. I have thought about saving info.
Of course, I don't know how to "copy into word document" or paste. :oops:
 
Keith said:
Sounds like a good idea. I have thought about saving info.
Of course, I don't know how to "copy into word document" or paste.
Click to expand...

If you want to search some of your old tips then paste them into a Word or other document just highlight what you want to copy just as if you were highlighting something to quote here. Then right click with your mouse while keeping the cursor over the highlighted area. You'll get a box with a few options, select copy. Then minimize the screen you're copying from and have a blank Word document waiting to paste to. When you have the indent set on the Word page where you want it right click again and select paste. The copied dialogue should appear on the Word document.
 
Mr Krause, I work on Mikuni round slide carbs and can't recall having come across the "leaner" GS carbs you speak of. About 90 percent of my work is with Kawasaki VM series so this isn't really unusual I guess. In any case, you say the the pilot fuel mixture screw is not present and a screw in plug is in its place as I understand your explanation. Is there an air screw up on the side?

As far as the broken tips from the pilot fuel mixture screws being tightened too much, these are very difficult to remove without opening up the hole they seat in. I can remove some but not all without opening up the hole... I use a letter series drill bit to gently drill the end of the tip to loosen it and then try and press it out from the venturi side with a hooked dental pick with a broken off tip (blunt) to pop it back through. This works some of the time but many times it will not. You can drill through but even a very thin lettered type drill bit will slide off the needle tip and can open up th hole some.

I have found that one hole damaged/opened won't make a great deal of difference... some instability in idle... maybe 25 rpm will result and this is hardly noticeable. More than one hole opened up on a set and the idle variation becomes annoying as the small air leak causes a minor lean condition... two damaged holes can make the idle vary 100 rpm and this is annoying. More than two and the assembly might be considered unusable.
 
GS1000 MANUAL

GS1000 MANUAL

KEITH KRAUSE said:
By the way, at E-bay right now, a guy is selling what he says is a '77 GS1000/GS1000E owners manual. It looks like a '78 to me. Couldn't be much difference. I don't have the item # because I just thought of it, but just type in "Suzuki GS1000" and it's in there. I think there's about 2 days to go and no bids yet when I saw it.
Click to expand...

Says 'From 77' on the front - it's 2.50 now with 30 minutes to go -
it is exactly the same manual as I have and while maybe not
perfect it covers everything as far as I can tell.
 
Re: GS1000 MANUAL

Re: GS1000 MANUAL

xifer said:
KEITH KRAUSE said:
By the way, at E-bay right now, a guy is selling what he says is a '77 GS1000/GS1000E owners manual. It looks like a '78 to me. Couldn't be much difference. I don't have the item # because I just thought of it, but just type in "Suzuki GS1000" and it's in there. I think there's about 2 days to go and no bids yet when I saw it.
Click to expand...

Says 'From 77' on the front - it's 2.50 now with 30 minutes to go -
it is exactly the same manual as I have and while maybe not
perfect it covers everything as far as I can tell.
Click to expand...

I couldn't find it. Guess I missed it :?
 
wiredgeorge said:
Mr Krause, I work on Mikuni round slide carbs and can't recall having come across the "leaner" GS carbs you speak of. About 90 percent of my work is with Kawasaki VM series so this isn't really unusual I guess. In any case, you say the the pilot fuel mixture screw is not present and a screw in plug is in its place as I understand your explanation. Is there an air screw up on the side?
Click to expand...
Yes, there is an air screw on the side.
These carbs are leaner because a second passage to the carb throat, which is normally regulated by the sharp tipped pilot fuel screw, is plugged with a brass plug. The pilot fuel screw used in this carb is blunt and machined flat instead of sharp tipped. It's easy to see the blunt/flat screw isn't a broken/twisted screw. This "dummy" screw only serves to seal the carb and even if the brass plug is removed, its blunt tip couldn't regulate the hole correctly.
The brass plugs are easy to distinguish from actual broken pilot fuel screw tips, because you can see their tip is fairly blunt also, not nearly as sharp as the tip of a normal pilot fuel screw.
 
Keith, here are some better pictures of the screws like I promised. This is not to say your not right about the plugged carbs. I have no doubt you know what your talking about there. Quite the opposite here, I want to make sure that I know if I do or don't have the carbs your talking about. I am very hopeful of course that I don't but I also really think they may not be. Please look at these pics and give me your determination based on these. If you look at them close, you will see what is making me doubt.

They are different lengths...

The ends are not machined smooth at all. Quite the opposite, they are all rough and uneven and sharp and torn looking...

They are bent and two of them have sharp shrapnel sticking up still...

One of the two with the sharpest edges sticking up came out with the tip still attached to it and didn't snap the rest of the way off until I pushed on it...

Please look close, if you look at these and still say you think these were factory plugged carbs then I am not using them. Otherwise, they and nice and clean right now :D

The pics:
DCP_7820.jpg


DCP_7823.jpg


DCP_7831.jpg


What do you think?
 
Those are sharp tipped pilot fuel screws with busted tips.
The better pic's make it easy to see.
The dummy screws are easy to see their ends are cut perfectly flat and not broken off. If you ever get a chance to see them, you'll see what I'm talking about.
If you think you removed the tips without any serious hole damage, find some sharp tipped screws and you should be able to use the carbs. Use whatever set is in the best condition.
 
I really felt they were and that is why I wanted you to see those screws with some better pics. I have screws coming in the mail. Thx Keith :)
 
Hoomgar said:
I really felt they were and that is why I wanted you to see those screws with some better pics. I have screws coming in the mail. Thx Keith :)
Click to expand...

I found some pilot screws INCLUDED with a rebuild kit!! Says they are for a 750. The kits he shows for 1000's do not have the screws! He calls them "premium" kits. Check out the pic....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=4564417002&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1

$18 per kit 8) I think the only difference between the 750 and 1000 carbs are the jet size. Don't the 750s have 105 mains and 1000's 95's? Even if all the jets are wrong for my 1000, the kit will be worth it for the pilot screws, o-rings, needle valves, and gaskets.
 
Looks like the right parts from what I can see Bruce. Let us know how they work out. The price is right for sure if so.
 
renobruce said:
Hoomgar said:
I really felt they were and that is why I wanted you to see those screws with some better pics. I have screws coming in the mail. Thx Keith :)
Click to expand...

I found some pilot screws INCLUDED with a rebuild kit!! Says they are for a 750. The kits he shows for 1000's do not have the screws! He calls them "premium" kits. Check out the pic....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=4564417002&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1

$18 per kit 8) I think the only difference between the 750 and 1000 carbs are the jet size. Don't the 750s have 105 mains and 1000's 95's? Even if all the jets are wrong for my 1000, the kit will be worth it for the pilot screws, o-rings, needle valves, and gaskets.
Click to expand...


Just an update: The kits came and the pilot screws are identical. In fact, the kit has all the same parts for a 1000, except the main jets in the kit are 102's. The kits are from K&L. Part number 18-2466, 77-79 GS750.

The parts were nice, I thought. No metal shavings or the like. Got them installed today and fired her up. Runs great! Just need to synch, but it seems close.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Those are sharp tipped pilot fuel screws with busted tips.
The better pic's make it easy to see.
The dummy screws are easy to see their ends are cut perfectly flat and not broken off. If you ever get a chance to see them, you'll see what I'm talking about.
If you think you removed the tips without any serious hole damage, find some sharp tipped screws and you should be able to use the carbs. Use whatever set is in the best condition.
Click to expand...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I have this exact issue. I got the broken tips out, and redressed the tips of the pilot screws to a sharp point using a fine file, then polished them. I installed them and after seating them pulled em back out to inspect. They all have a nice ring around the tip where they seat into the carb, indicating they are straight. Will this work, or will I have to shell out for new screws? It's a 79 GS750E. I am running it like this, and do have a lean spot on low throttle on accel but I don't know if this could be the source. I just got the bike a few weeks ago in a non-running state and am trying to get these last gremlins sorted out...
 
I suppose it's possible to reshape the screws and make them work (?)
Depends on how much tip was broken. The screws have to be a certain length. After your repair, the overall taper would be steeper but go ahead and try them.
If you need help or have problems with the carbs, etc, I suggest a new thread to get more help.
 
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