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VM26SS Carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike1414
  • Start date Start date
If you're overflowing gas, the floats are sticking which could explain why you're running rich. On another note did you check where the e-clip is on the needle? It needs to be moved down 2 positions from stock.

Edit:Also, the petcock could be failing causing gas to run down the vacuum to carb 3.
 
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John, I moved it down 1 position which seemed to help slightly. I will move it down one additional position. Why would this make such a difference, though, for carb 4 when none of the others are leaking (aside from the slightly wet drain on 1)?
 
I realize that I worded that poorly. Only my carb #4 drains from the overflow, but each of my carb's float heights have been set to stock since getting the bike. Should I set each float height to -2 to help the rich running issue (only slight "wetness" around my carb #1 drain plug with gas)? Why is it that just now they have begun to give me problems? I also feel as though I should make it known: the bike will start with the choke, but I immediately have to close it and give it slight, but continuous throttle up to a couple thousand RPM's to keep it going. It will then idle relatively normally at about 1300 or so until I ride it, it then just up to 2000 or so. I know this further confirms my running rich, but, does the choke issue mean anything else in particular?
 
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mike1414 said:
I realize that I worded that poorly. Only my carb #4 drains from the overflow, but each of my carb's float heights have been set to stock since getting the bike. Should I set each float height to -2 to help the rich running issue (only slight "wetness" around my carb #1 drain plug with gas)? Why is it that just now they have begun to give me problems? I also feel as though I should make it known: the bike will start with the choke, but I immediately have to close it and give it slight, but continuous throttle up to a couple thousand RPM's to keep it going. It will then idle relatively normally at about 1300 or so until I ride it, it then just up to 2000 or so. I know this further confirms my running rich, but, does the choke issue mean anything else in particular?
Click to expand...

Forget about moving the e-clip, moving it down makes running richer - you don't need that right now. If everything was good with your carbs it would make sense.

You have too much fuel in the bowls, so it's running too rich. If the float heights are correct and they are not sticking (catching on the gasket) then the needle valve is failing, letting excess fuel into the bowl.
Did you check the petcock? Suck on the vacuum and hope you don't get a mouth-full of gas!
 
Haha I did in fact suck on the petcock, only enough to make it work, luckily not to give myself gas poisoning. The vacuum from the petcock worked, fuel flowed when I sucked.

How do do I go about checking whether or not the floats are stuck?
 
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Take the bowls off and make a visual inspection - rock the carbs back and forth. Put the bowls back on and do the same again. You should hear the floats moving. While you're in there take the needle valves out and look for a wear line on the pointy end. If your petcock is OK, the valves are not closing off fuel. Not sure what else to tell you at this point. Anyone else got an idea?
 
Well when I take the bowls off and give the carbs a shake, the floats seem to move around pretty well. Would my rich condition have to do with my larger pilot jets? Or what about my new charging issue? If all else fails, I can go back to the beginning (basic stuff) and begin with a whole new carb clean. I am just working with a limited time schedule between work and school, so I am trying to keep things as simple as possible. I realize these bikes require attention, maybe I'm just destined to have a shoddy running bike until I have more time on my hands.

So I took a short study break to diagnose my charging issue - there was a haywire connection. I fixed it, and the charging issue is gone, but the idle is still high. I messed a little bit with the air/fuel mixture screws and put them anywhere from a half turn out to 2 turns out. It seems to leak less from drain #4 when I have my air/fuel screw set to 2 turns out; the idle doesn't really hang and the throttle response is pretty good throughout, but it still idles at about 2000RPM. Also I noticed that there is some sort of popping around my carbs/intakes. I remembered that I didn't have my intake boots tightened down all the way - tightened them down, but still popping coming from somewhere around there when I first get on the gas from a stop in 1st gear. I also noticed upon returning home that there is a hose that comes from the top of the engine block, underneath the fuel tank and deposits underneath the battery box - it seemed to be slightly leaking, but spitting out what I assume was steam because I stuck my screwdriver butt in there and it didn't smell like any chemicals. What is this vent hose? Also, is there any significance behind the popping/high idle?
 
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That's the breather hose and it's probably spitting out oily smoke. The first time I tried to vacuum sync carbs, I made big changes instead of tiny ones. I got a lot of smoke out the breather as i got further out of sync. Just wanted to say poorly synced carbs made my motor smoke more than usual.
 
Gotcha, Hannibal. My carbs definitely are not properly synced yet. They are bench synced, but that's it. I know that I need to vacuum sync, but I didn't think that would make such significant changes to the "running rich" problem. Yay, nay?
 
You're running rich, popping and leaking fuel because you're getting too much fuel in the bowls. This is a petcock/needle valve/float issue.
High idle - you have used the idle adjuster, right?
Bench syncing can be way off but won't affect your problems, vacuum syncing will reduce vibration and smooth-out the running.

We may be missing something here, your carbs have no pilot fuel screws, I wonder if there may be other weird things about them......

Anyone..... Bueller......
 
I'd never touched the idle adjuster before, therefore I did not bother messing with it this time around. Not to mention it is not in the same position as my Honda GL500 or GS550 idle adjustment screw was. Where is it located? (http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts...0c-f-no-gs750-41493-gs750ec-f-no-gs750e-19996)

I am glad that you eased my confusion, though, in regards to the syncing. I know that it can be off, but I couldn't see a situation that would cause my issues. I am just confused still as to my fuel levels. The floats work fine, the needles are all intact; my biggest problem with my throttle is still in the first 1/4 range and the popping near my carbs is only in 1st gear, though there is popping from my exhaust through 2nd and 3rd. The popping from my carbs occurs probably between the (roughly) 200RPM - 3000RPM range.
 
As I expected, John. Also as I thought, I do not have that idle adjuster on my carbs. This is the place that it was located on the 550 and GL500, but I do not have it on my carbs. I have something that appears to be unusual along the bottom of my carbs. It is what looks like a turnable knob with a spring, though it is quite large to be an idle adjuster (its about 2-3cm in diameter); it looks like it comes out from the block underneath the carbs and connects somewhere around the area between carbs 2/3. I assume that is not an idle adjustment knob - what is it? I cannot identify it based on the carb fiche.
 
Pictures of your carbs would go a ways in getting help. They seem rather unusual and may not be what you\we think they are. Perhaps kawi or something aftermarket for racing.
 
mike1414 said:
As I expected, John. Also as I thought, I do not have that idle adjuster on my carbs. This is the place that it was located on the 550 and GL500, but I do not have it on my carbs. I have something that appears to be unusual along the bottom of my carbs. It is what looks like a turnable knob with a spring, though it is quite large to be an idle adjuster (its about 2-3cm in diameter); it looks like it comes out from the block underneath the carbs and connects somewhere around the area between carbs 2/3. I assume that is not an idle adjustment knob - what is it? I cannot identify it based on the carb fiche.
Click to expand...

if it is all metal with a lock nut and screw in the center then it would be the automatic cam chain tensioner and it would be best to leave it alone it has nothing to do with the carbs
 
mike1414 said:
As I expected, John. Also as I thought, I do not have that idle adjuster on my carbs. This is the place that it was located on the 550 and GL500, but I do not have it on my carbs. I have something that appears to be unusual along the bottom of my carbs. It is what looks like a turnable knob with a spring, though it is quite large to be an idle adjuster (its about 2-3cm in diameter); it looks like it comes out from the block underneath the carbs and connects somewhere around the area between carbs 2/3. I assume that is not an idle adjustment knob - what is it? I cannot identify it based on the carb fiche.
Click to expand...

If it's not on top it will be directly under the carbs. I can't imaging you don't have an idle adjuster.....
Can you take a few photos from different angles (in good light).
 
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