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voltage across battery while running

  • Thread starter Thread starter dig dug mx6
  • Start date Start date
diode test

diode test

When checking in the diode mode, the reading you are getting one way is the forward voltage drop of the diode, an infinite reading (OL on some meters) when the probes are in the opposite positions is ok. Make sure fingeres aren't in way and you have a good connection. if the reading varies in the forward position, could have something else in the circuit affecting the diode. if reading starts low and climbs to infinite, could be a capacitor in the circuit (automotive terms: condenser). Infinite reading both ways, diode is bad, 0 or near zero reading diode is shorted or something in circuit diode is in is shorted. check diode out of circuit if possible.
 
I just used the Honda CB-750 mod. Take a look at my recent post in the Tech section telling what I did and how I did it.

The hardest part of the whole thing was using the dremel with the metal cutting attachment to cut away enough of the heat fins so the side cover would fit on. (Don't worry, I left enough on there to cool things sufficiently.)
 
Late model Honda R/Rs will work to. They just have an extra set of hot and ground wires.
 
will this mod also work on a GS400???

will this mod also work on a GS400???

Will this conversion to a Honda R/R also work on an 82 GS400.

I just bought an 82 GS400 and the charging system is starting to go. The Suzuki dealership that inspected it before I bought it tells me it charges at 12.8 at 5000 rpm, but only 11.8 at Idle. They suggested either using a trickle charger every night or replacing the R/R.

Does anybody know whether the Honda R/R's, i.e. cheaper late model ones, can be made to work on my bike? Thanks everyone for the help.
 
drew said:
Will this conversion to a Honda R/R also work on an 82 GS400.

I just bought an 82 GS400 and the charging system is starting to go. The Suzuki dealership that inspected it before I bought it tells me it charges at 12.8 at 5000 rpm, but only 11.8 at Idle. They suggested either using a trickle charger every night or replacing the R/R.

Does anybody know whether the Honda R/R's, i.e. cheaper late model ones, can be made to work on my bike? Thanks everyone for the help.
Yes, you can make it work. There are threads here that can help. Basically the newer Honda regs have three yellow wires for the stator, two red hot wires, two green grounds and one brown sensor wire. Run one red and one green to the hot and ground on the stock plug. Then you can run the extra ground to the battery negative and the extra red hot wire to the battery with a 15 amp fuse installed to protect the electrical system.
 
Dig Dug,
Dude, your thread got hijacked royal!

I have a feeling you are worrying about nothing. If everything was OK before you got the gauge, why don't you just take the gauge off? :)

Seriously (somewhat), if your battery wasn't losing charge or burning up the fluid before, maybe the readings are OK. Mine reads a little high, but my bike has no symptoms of charging problems.
 
problem is that it has cooked the fluid and I have been blowing bulbs. I am waiting for my honda regulator to show up.

It's like waiting for water to boil. It sucks having two bikes in the garage and I can;t ride either one
 
ok I got one of dem honda r/r's works like a champ and bolts right in place is as though honda new and made them to fit suzuki's too.

Thanks for the Help \\:D/
 
I used one off of a Gold Wing. It was a Shindengen SH530-12. Works great. No electrical problems since the replacement.
 
dig dug mx6 said:
ok I got one of dem honda r/r's works like a champ and bolts right in place is as though honda new and made them to fit suzuki's too.

Thanks for the Help \\:D/

What does the voltmeter read now while running?

Thanks,
Joe
 
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