Voltage Drop with turn signals

[Big Red]

Hello guys i have been doing the Stator testing and found no issues. but during the tests i found that if i turned the signal light on it would continually drop the the voltage coming out of the battery.

during the quick test first time it had i voltage drop at 5000rpm. but it was still around 14. i found it had a 8 amp fuse where a 15 was required so i replaced that and found it now increased at 5000 rpm.

the third time i ran the testing i happen to hit the turn signal at the same time and found that i dropped the voltage every time it flashed. if it was at idle (1500) with the ligths on and flasher it would drop the voltage from 13+ and it seems to drop continuous sly until it gets below 12 and then it wants to stall due to lack of power. but if i leave it at 2500 rpm it is able to keep going as it charges the battery enough in between flashes.

I cannot tell if it the stator or RR. or just the signal relay (replaced by generic two years ago). I am working my through all the contacts but found no issues yet.

Thanks for any info.

 

[tom203]

Can you do this quick test in this link and post all 6 results?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...System-QUICK-TEST/page2&p=1272192#post1272192

 

[posplayr]

Blinkers are a big load; obviously it will pull down the battery some. The Quick test is designed based on the standard loads without adding the blinkers.

 

[Big Red]

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

13.00

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts
12.5

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts
13.3/5

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts
13.9/14.2

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

1st test = 13.5, 2nd = 14.4 (after replacing fuses)

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)
13.3/4

I then ran the same test but with the signal light on and it would continue to drop each time the lights flashed. then charged back up if the rpm was higher then 2500.

put a new battery in last spring.

last year i would drive the bike to work and after cruising at 120kmh for 30 min i would hit a stop light and would have the lights and signals on to turn and the bike would stall. (loss of power) i got used to turning my light off when i got to the light and keep the rpm up to stop the stall. then once running on side streets for a minute it would be fine with the light off.

I am considering going to LED but want to make sure the charging system is good first.

I will run the test again tonight to confirm the results again. just need to fix a oil leak. new oil filter seal did not seal fully and now leaks like a tap.
Thanks

 

[posplayr]

It looks like you previously had a degraded fuse between the battery and the R/R and that was limiting the charging voltage to 13.4V at 5K RPM. This lack of charging probably contributed to you having eventually damaged the old battery.

Now you have a fresh battery and better fuse, your charging look much better. The signal lights are a very heavy load especially when the brakes are on. The charging system can not overcome the load from all of those lights and maintain 14.5V at the battery.

Do not change to LED unless you have a Series R/R (like the SH-775).

But you are correct the LEDs will draw much less current and will will reduce the strain on your harness.

I would do the Phase A test and measure your voltage drops.

http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

 

[Big Red]

Ran the test again last night. had the battery on a battery tender until just before i did the test.

#1 13.2
#2 12.5
#3 13.2
#4 14.2
#5 14.1 (took the rpm up to 5000 three times with the same results
#6 13.2

Started the fault finding chart

step#2 was .17
and step 3 is direct wired to negative battery terminal already. i stopped there.

 

[posplayr]

What is the size and length of the ground wire? How many connections between battery and r/r?

 

[Big Red]

The length of the black wire from the R/R to the - battery terminal is only 7-8 inches and is what i would call a medium gauged wire. there are 5 wires coming out of the RR black one to the battery and 4 into the harness. (red, yellow, White/blue and the other i cannot remember off the top of my head.) they all have bullet connections.

 

[posplayr]

It is generally recommended you get rid of bullet connectors. Your red and black wire are carrying 15 amps in each direction. You are "ok" right now but is 6 months you might be down another 0.25v and the year after you are charging at 13.5v snd the battery is flat again.

You have never mentioned shat r/r you are using do I will assume it is shunt. The less voltage your battery sees the more likely you are smoking your stator.

this is is thd main reason for sll of the recommendations in gs charging health.

 

[Big Red]

90 % of this bike is stock. so i am assuming that the RR is the stock Shunt type that came with the bike back in the day. should i just upgrade the RR to the series 775 and this should solve the issues a $100 investment is worth more then all this time i am putting in trying to locate a tiny minor issue?

I have never checked the temp of the RR when running i will give it a touch when i get home to see how hot it gets.

Thanks

 

[posplayr]

90 % of this bike is stock. so i am assuming that the RR is the stock Shunt type that came with the bike back in the day. should i just upgrade the RR to the series 775 and this should solve the issues a $100 investment is worth more then all this time i am putting in trying to locate a tiny minor issue?

I have never checked the temp of the RR when running i will give it a touch when i get home to see how hot it gets.

Thanks

Many of these bikes have chronic charging problems. The biggest issue is the shunt R/R that over stresses the stator. The ability of the stator to survive is based on how much heat can be removed from the stator to keep it cool. That has to do with the size of the engine, whether you keep the RPM's at a high level or if you keep enough oil it it.

Right now we have no idea as to whether you stator has sustained any damage or how much that might be. If you do the Phase B stator tests especially the Leg to Ground that will allow me to make a judgment about a recommendation.

If for example there is no damage to the stator now, I would correct the factory wiring frailties and wire the R/R according to Charging System Health and watch and wait.

If you do have damage, you are probably living on borrowed time and it would be best to plan of the SH-775.

 

[Big Red]

Ok i guess i know what i am doing tonight while watching the Ottawa Senators take down those nasty Boston Bruins......

Thanks for the help.

 

[Steve]

Looking back to the beginning of the thread, it seems that you are surprised there is a voltage drop when the signals are on?

Look at it this way: the two bulbs that light up when you activate the turn signals draw the same amount of current as a headlight.

.

 

[posplayr]

Looking back to the beginning of the thread, it seems that you are surprised there is a voltage drop when the signals are on?

Look at it this way: the two bulbs that light up when you activate the turn signals draw the same amount of current as a headlight.

.

Blinkers and brakes on are 3*23=69 watts compared to a 55W headlamp.

 

[Steve]

If you are using stock bulbs. I usually use 1157 bulbs, which are 27 watts, so two of them equal one headlight.

Toss in the brake light, ... yeah, the stator earns its keep. :encouragement:

.

 

[Big Red]

So you are saying that when you are sitting at a light at idle on a hill turning left at night using all the lights your bike would have the same issue as the lights are drawing more power then the bike will produce and will stall. then also have a hard time starting again because the battery level has dropped so low?

even just sitting in the garage with the headlight on i hit the blinkers and when they flash the headlight dims as well as the dash lights (neutral light)

I did the phase 3 testing for the Ohms of the Stator and got 0.03. so i am guessing that means i need to replace the Stator?

also ran the quick test again and got the same results. lower voltage at 5000 then i got at 2500 RPM.

Thoughts?

 

[posplayr]

Nobody said the bike should stall , but someone did specify the phase b leg to groung test. You need at least about. 11v to run snd battery should not drop below about 12.0 at idle with blinker on.

 

[Steve]

Sounds more like the battery is shot than the stator.

With the engine idling (make sure you are at proper idle speed, about 1100RPM), the stator is not putting out anything near full capacity, but the battery should be able to handle the electrical load without the little bit that the stator is contributing.

With a good battery, you should be able to disconnect the three stator wires from the R/R inputs and go for a short ride. Using turn signals and brakes will shorten the time a bit, but you should easily get 20-30 minutes. From your description, you are not even getting 20-30 seconds, even with the stator connected, so I say it's time for a new battery.

.

 

[Big Red]

Sorry yes i started the Phase B not 3 testing and the first test for the Ohms was below the 0.05 stated so i stopped since it was 0.03 for all three pairs. Should i continue with the rest of the steps? or start planning on getting a new stator.

If i am idling in the garage and test the volts the signal light with lights on will drop the battery below 12. and try to stall.

during my rides last year i would just turn my lights off if i needed to use my signal lights while idling which allowed me to keep it from stalling.

in Canada we have a supplier for Stators [h=1]ElectroSport Stator[/h]
Item # : 173240

for $170 CAD + tax with free shipping

i believe i can handle the install but would need to also order a gasket to go with it.

Thanks guys

This Site is amazing for weekend warriors like me

 

[posplayr]

Just trying to get to the bottom of whether the stator has sustained any dzmsge in the past. The ohm meter tests are worthless.

Steve: he had repeat lay done the Quick Test and shows 14.2v at 2.5k and 14.1v at 5k. So he is charging ok but undercharging none the less.

He he has ignored about 1/3 Of the recommendations, but regardless I have been trying to save him from changing both r/r and stator. If the stator is showing no faults (leg to ground) I would just fix connections and call it good, although low idle is possibly causing low voltage stalling .