Voltage Drop with turn signals

[Big Red]

I think i missed reading a posts fully. I will run the full Phase B test tonight. leg to ground...

What other recommendations have i missed?

this is my first time dealing with these parts of the bike. all the other issues i have dealt with in the past were carb or engine related. Electrical doesn't scare me but it is confusing as hell.

Thanks again for your help guys.

I have no problem replacing what is needed i just want piece of mind and not have to worry about stalling out anymore.

It will be going out for it's first ride of the spring tomorrow. so it will be the best test yet.

 

[Big Red]

Phase B testing

1- .03 Ohms on all three
2 - 99 ohms on all three (might be the meter also since that is the same reading i get when i touch the red and back leads together also for the meter.
3 - Below 60 volts (can't remember the exact numbers)
4 - all above 0


basically it has failed all of the tests in the phase B i am also going to borrow a different multi meter to confirm the tests. before moving forward.

went out for my first ride on the weekend and it seemed strong and running great. But no highway or stop lights just some stop signs.

Thank again for all the help.
Caleb

 

[posplayr]

Phase B testing

1- .03 Ohms on all three
2 - 99 ohms on all three (might be the meter also since that is the same reading i get when i touch the red and back leads together also for the meter.
3 - Below 60 volts (can't remember the exact numbers)
4 - all above 0


basically it has failed all of the tests in the phase B i am also going to borrow a different multi meter to confirm the tests. before moving forward.

went out for my first ride on the weekend and it seemed strong and running great. But no highway or stop lights just some stop signs.

Thank again for all the help.
Caleb

Realize the voltage in leg to leg is proportional to rpm. 80vac/5krpm but you want to stress the stator fully for l-l and. L-g.
i assume you realize what you seem to be measuring is a damaged stator. The combination of factored has lead to this. It will not get better znd stator replacement will only be temporary unless you go to a. Series r/r.

 

[Big Red]

I agree it seems that it is a damaged Stator.

So is my best bet to order a new Stator and R/R and replace both at the same time and run the bike for another 30 years?

or just set the idle high and don't use the lights when i have to turn....

what am i better off doing since i have a salvage yard not far that has a TON of older bikes should i try and get the Honda version? what years and what size would they have come on for the RR.

as for the Stator i can order one Electrosport Stator for $170 Canadian plus taxes and free shipping..

Thoughts?

 

[posplayr]

I agree it seems that it is a damaged Stator.

So is my best bet to order a new Stator and R/R and replace both at the same time and run the bike for another 30 years?

or just set the idle high and don't use the lights when i have to turn....

The best case scenario is that you get a hard failure of your stator and you know you have to change it. The more time consuming alternative is you chase your tail becuase your bike seems to be charging as per the Quick Test) but after getting back from a ride, you find your battery is low.

If you were to ride with a voltmeter on the handlebar, you would probably be seeing this directly. Failure to charge is dependent on the stator maintaining its insulating characteristics between the winding. Damaged insulation can have temperature dependent degradations that compromise charging well before any catastrophic failure finally makes it clear what is going on.

So yes plan on changing both and you should not have to worry about it for along time. One of the problems is that other stator design defects due to improper insulation and sensitivity to vibration can now start to be the next things to fail after eliminating the SHUNT R/R stresses.

The Electrosport stator seem to have very good epoxy coatings to fix and secure winding. Pay special attention to how the wires coming from the stator are secured because solid core wires will eventually fail if allowed to flex.

The SH775 is a monster(but if you can get it to fit and you're happy with that then go for it), and a lot of people get away with the Honda Units; they are definitely smaller(not perfect but very good). If cost was no object than get the Compufire as it is much smaller.

All this is mentioned in GS Stator.

 

[tom203]

"what am i better off doing since i have a salvage yard not far that has a TON of older bikes should i try and get the Honda version? what years and what size would they have come on for the RR."

Live dangerously and recycle! Lots of salvage bikes likely have good stators- I'm using one! Spend your money on a SH-775 and skip the overpriced ES stator

 

[Gorminrider]

i have a salvage yard not far that has a TON of older bikes should i try and get the Honda version

R/Rs from 80's goldwings and Silverwings are ones I am still using... But as you say, you take a chance, so be careful. Do Not Pay Very Much....I have seen high prices on these.... AND It's unlikely they'll take it back , not trusting you to wire it in properly. wire colours are slightly different than stock suzukis. There's instruction on BassCliff's site.