When I got my 81 850G I could only get 12.4 across the battery, running with the lights on. I took all three stator wires and soldered connections straight to the regulator. Voltage went to a reasonable 13.7 at barely more than an idle. But it picks up nothing more with engine speed. I don't worry about it as it's been this way going on it's second year without trouble, but I thought revving it up should get me a little more voltage. The battery is kept charged ok and the regulator runs pretty cool, I can lay my hand on it. Thoughts?
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Voltage question
- Thread starter wymple
- Start date
eil
Forum Sage
Running the stator wires directly to the R/R is good. But... You should be getting at least 14V at the battery with the engine at 5000 RPM. If not, it's not really charging very well. You might limp along on a marginal charging system for a while before it finally fails on you at the most inconvenient moment.
How old is your R/R? Is it stock?
How old is your battery?
posplayr will be along shortly to advice you to do the charging system quick test as linked to in his signature, I imagine.
How old is your R/R? Is it stock?
How old is your battery?
posplayr will be along shortly to advice you to do the charging system quick test as linked to in his signature, I imagine.
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The quick test has specific testing voltage at 2500 and 5000 RPM to get subtle indications of what is going on. In addition it incorporates a battery test prior to any testing. Without these items you do not have sufficient information except to play 39 questions.
It appears to be charging and it could just be dirty connections. You can try the Revised Phase A tests as well to measure the voltage drops for those.
It appears to be charging and it could just be dirty connections. You can try the Revised Phase A tests as well to measure the voltage drops for those.
Steve
GS Whisperer
In the meantime, 13.7 volts is not hateful. It is still charging the battery, just not as quickly or as properly as it should.
If you end up replacing your R/R, get the SH775 (Polaris) unit that is the current favorite,
and you will also find out why I never solder stator leads, or leads going to any other device that might need to be replaced.
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If you end up replacing your R/R, get the SH775 (Polaris) unit that is the current favorite,
and you will also find out why I never solder stator leads, or leads going to any other device that might need to be replaced.
.
I don't know.... Wire cutters work pretty fast at disconnecting soldered connections.
JK
Steve,
The underlying principle of the Quick Test, is to measure a set of data point under a variety of conditions which will help reduce the uncertainty in a diagnosis of a UJM's electrical system. It is the entire data set that gives the diagnostic value not just a single voltage say at 5000 RPM.
While having 14.5V at 5000 RPM is good, there are many more conditions which in most cases indicated something else is wrong. For example at 13.7V I can think of at least things that could explain that lower value:
1.) Low battery voltage
2.) High connection resistance between R/R and battery
3.) Initial failing stator
The Steps 1 and 2 of the Quick test can largely rule out 1.)
The voltage differences and value at 2500 and 5000 rpm can be used to assess 2.)
3.) is generally determined by a process of elimination short of conducting the Revised Phase B tests.
So I would not be so quick to make the OP feel at ease as if there " is probably nothing wrong". I will agree that it would seem that it is not that bad, and probably operating good enough to get you into trouble e.g. going on a ride where you get stranded. Best to get to the bottom of what is low charging (13.7 v.s. 14.5) and fix it and then go on a ride.
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Steve
GS Whisperer
All very true. I was only giving a little assurance that he did not have to park the bike in the meantime, but should still fix it.
It still works at 13.7 volts, but will work BETTER with 14+.
Many years ago, I had a small pickup truck. Unless ALL the lights were off (and they seldom were), the voltmeter never went above 13. With the lights off, it went to about 13.8. The original battery lasted 7 years, so something must have been working "OK". I know that is comparing an alternator with a stator, but the battery only sees "voltage", it doesn't care what generated it.
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It still works at 13.7 volts, but will work BETTER with 14+.
Many years ago, I had a small pickup truck. Unless ALL the lights were off (and they seldom were), the voltmeter never went above 13. With the lights off, it went to about 13.8. The original battery lasted 7 years, so something must have been working "OK". I know that is comparing an alternator with a stator, but the battery only sees "voltage", it doesn't care what generated it.
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