Walk me through points replacement? '79 GS1000.

[justin caise]

Hey Hi,
I just recently got a '79 GS1000 - yeah me!\\/ - and after reading through many threads here I've decided that it's "stalling and loss of power once warmed up" problem could be either the carbs and air box not seated properly, or the points may need to be replaced.

I thought that it was a fuel filter problem so I removed the tank and petcock - created an issue or two in doing so, which deserve their own thread - and will reassemble after Phosphoric wash to remove rust. Thank you members who have suggested that on other threads.

Anyway, I'm trying to get her running in time for the run to Moosehead Lake in Sept. And I don't have a manual yet.
Does anyone have pictures and procedures to help this first timer through a simple points repacement and gapping?
Appreciate it.
Justin.

 

[Cyg]

If your not familar with points then ill scan the pages you need. lets hope you are.

set points gap to 0.3-0.4mm (0.012-.0.016 with a feeler gauge. Plugs
are Use a feeler gauge and gap the spark plugs too 0..6-0.8 (0.024-0.031 in.)

Plugs NGK B-8ES or ND W24ES

Firing Order 1,2,3,4

 

[justin caise]

Thanks Cyg, but what I meant what exactly that... I'm not familiar with points. Except for a very elementary understanding of them. I'm... less than confident about opening up the small electro/mech systems with out the proper instructions.
A scan of those pages would really do me well. And YOU'd be a hero in at least one persons eyes.

 

[Cyg]

np ill load em up soon

 

[Guest]

I have never done points on a Suzuki but have on Chevys and Yamaha XS650s. But they should be the same and isn't really that hard. Take off the ignition cover. You should see two sets of points that open and close when the motor is running with a small cam lobe. The points screw off the plates. You'll notice where the screw goes in it has a groove to adjust the points. Put the new points on the ignition plate and make the electical conections. Turn the motor until the points you are going to adjust are open. You'll see the cam lobe pushing on the lever action of the point. Now you'll use the feeler quage and set the gap between the two circular heads with the adjuster screw loose. Now tighten the screw. Repeat for the other points. Turn the motor a few times and recheck the point gap. Use Cyg's gap measurments.

 

[earlfor]

Maybe this will help. The proceedure is the same for your bike.

To adjust timing with the bike running, you need a dynamic timing light. to set the static timing (bike is NOT running) all you need is a 12 volt lightbulb and two wires so you can connect it.

Here's the proceedure for timing the 750. The points are located under
the round cover on the right end of the crankcase/crankshaft.

The round 6" plate that both sets of points are mounted on (breaker
plate) is held in place by three screws located at 12, 4 and 8 oclock.
Loosen the 3 screws on the breaker plate. Note that the screw at 12
oclock is in a slot. Rotate the breaker plate until the 12 oclock screw
is centered in the slot. Tighten the three screws.

We will replace the left side set of points first (located at 9 oclock
position) These are the points for cylinders 1 and 4.

Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate crankshaft until points are at widest
gap. Unscrew hold down screw on pointset and remove points. Note the
white wire that goes to the pointset and the placement of the insulator.
The insulator must be correct or the points will be grounded out and
will not work. Put the new points onto the breaker plate, set the gap to
14 thousandths, and lightly tighten the hold down screw. Install white wire.
Rotate crankshaft once again with 19mm wrench until points are at widest
gap. Check that widest gap remains at 14 thousandths. Adjust and
retighten holddown screw if needed.

Rotate crankshaft until rightside points are at widest gap (for
cylinders 2 and 3) Remove old points and install new points and set gap
at 14 thousandths. Note insulators on black wire installation. Rotate
crankshaft with 19 mm wrench again stopping at widest gap. Recheck gap
as you did with the left pointset. Adjust and retighten hold down screw
on points if needed.

THE ABOVE COVERS SETTING THE POINTS GAPS




Next is the timing:

Timing for cylinders 1 and 4 (the left set of points)....................
With 19 mm wrench, rotate crankshaft while looking through the timing
window and align the mark that looks like |F1 with the timing mark on
the engine case.
(the line (|) preceeding F1 is the mark |F1

note: some bikes will have a stationary timing mark on the engine case
and some will have a mark on a stationary timing plate that can be seen
through the timing window)

Connect a continuity lights wire lead/clip to the white wire clip on the
left pointset. Clamp continuity light probe tip to ground on the bike or
battery negative terminal.

Turn ignition switch to on (do not attempt to start bike, just switch
ignition to on)

The continuity light should be on.

Loosen the three screws on the breaker plate located at 12, 4 and 8
oclock. Rotate breaker plate until continuity light just flickers out.
Retighten the 12, 4, and 8 oclock screws on the breaker plate.

Unclip continuity lead from left pointset.



For the Right pointset
Rotate crankshaft with wrench until you see the timing mark F2| become
aligned with the stationary timing mark on the engine case.
Connect continuity light lead to black wire on right pointset.
The ignition should be switched on and the continuity light should be on.

The right pointset is mounted to a breaker half plate.
You will see that you can loosen the mounting screws on this breaker
half plate and this will allow you to move the right pointset. This will
adjust the timing without changing the points gap. When you rotated the
complete breaker plate for the left pointset to get the continuity light
to flicker out, thats what you did. You adjusted the timing on cylinders
1 and 4 without changing the gap on their pointset.
Unfortunately, the whole breaker plate being rotated moves BOTH sets of
points, so that is why you must set the left side first and that is why
the right side is mounted on its own independent half breaker plate.
SOoooooo.... Smile Loosen the breaker half plate on the right side and
rotate as needed to cause the continuity light to just flicker out.
Tighten the half plate back down when satisfied with the adjustment. Smile

Remove continuity light and HOPEFULLY, start bike.

Earl

 

[Guest]

Now that's thorough!

 

[earlfor]

I believe the firing order is 1,2, 4,3.

Earl

If your not familar with points then ill scan the pages you need. lets hope you are.

set points gap to 0.3-0.4mm (0.012-.0.016 with a feeler gauge. Plugs
are Use a feeler gauge and gap the spark plugs too 0..6-0.8 (0.024-0.031 in.)

Plugs NGK B-8ES or ND W24ES

Firing Order 1,2,3,4

 

[justin caise]

Kool! Now I can't wait to try it. Well, I'd better wait tho, it's almost 3:00 am.:shock:
How comw we don't have a really tired smiley?

 

[bwringer]

1) Whisper sweet nothings to your Visa card. It doesn't know what's about to happen to it...

2) Call Z1 Enterprises http://www.z1enterprises.com/

3) Order up the proper Dyna coils and electronic ignition.

4) Wait for delivery.

5) Install per instructions

6) Forget about farting around with unreliable prehistoric technology ever again.



Man, I hate points...

 

[Guest]

Good POINT Brian

 

[justin caise]

Yeah, but my wife is the one who has the intimate relationship with Visa. Darn card hardly recognizes me. And it tells my wife everything!8-[

Just want to get this 1K running enough to thrash it about for a few hunered miles and see if it needs anything serious (Cha-ching!).
Eventually I hope to learn both technologies. You know at home in the garage - not on the road.

Justin

 

[Cyg]

took awhile but here they are.

use the link below too upload what you need.http://netnet.net/~walnutw/Uploads/GsR/points/