Walking me through the Stator Papers test

[oldrookie]

Here are the readings I am getting as I walk through the test. I think Griffin said this was not a stock rectifier when he looked at it last summer.

Think I understand up until the rectifier test--my diode numbers are so different from the test numbers that I am not sure I am doing it correctly.

So.. here are the numbers

1. 13.39 Ok

2. .13 Ok

3. .11-.08 (fluxuates a bit.) OK

4. between yellow wires 1.3 OK

5. between yellow wire and case- no reading OK

6. 5000rpm between yellow wires all about 73 volts OK

7. Here's where things get odd- which probably indicates a need for a rectifier
When I switch to the Diode test mode a 1 shows in the LCD.
I see no change at all when I put the red lead on the red output wire and the black lead on a yellow wire. Always shows a 1.

(Fail) Should be Pass


8. If I put the black lead on the red output wire and the red lead on the yellow wires, one at a time, I get 543, 537, 495

(Fail) Should be Pass

9. When I put the black lead on the black wire coming out of the regulator and the red lead on the three yellow wires--no change. The number 1 shows in the LCD

(Fail) Should be Pass

10. If I continue on the last step and attach the red lead to the black output wire and touch the red lead to the yellow leads I get a reading of 530ish for each output.

(Fail) Should be Pass

Looks like the rectifier passes. So according to Steve's post below... It could be the regulator. It could also be the battery failing to hold charge since the stator and rectifier passes the tests in the Stator Papers

Does it seem to you that I am reading the test results correctly?

 

[tom203]

THose diode test readings... 543,537, etc, are just the forward voltage drop (actual is .543 volt,etc ) of the diodes when the meter is in diode test mode.
Skipping to your step 8; put black meter lead on R/R's red output wire, then put red meter lead on yellow wires- all should read like 500 to 600. Now reverse things, putting red meter wire on R/R's red output wire, then put black meter wire on yellow wires- meter should now read "1" ( not conducting)
Now put black meter wire on R/R's black wire ,then put red meter wire on yellow wires, all should read "1"....... Now put red meter wire on R/R's black wire, then put black meter wire on yellows, all should read 500 to 600. Whopee

 

[oldrookie]

Sorry to be ignorant, Tom203, but are you telling me that what I am seeing is normal for a functioning R/R?

 

[Steve]

Tests 7, 8, 9 and 10 should all be marked PASS.

That only tests the Rectifier portion of the R/R, the only way to test the Regulator portion is to run the bike and observe the changing voltages.

It is possible for the Rectifier to pass, but not the regulator.

.

 

[oldrookie]

Okay, very helpful information. Figured I was confused about what I was seeing.

Couldn't figure out how to interpret what the meter was telling me in steps 7 and 9 with the 1. The test steps said I should be seeing 1.5 volts to keep going and if I saw 1.00 volts the test failed. The fact that the meter didn't appear to register anything confused me a good bit. Autozone's finest.

Now, if I get what you are telling me...the stator and rectifier pass the test, but the regulator might be malfunctioning by not providing enough charge to the battery while running.

The test for that is to idle the bike take a reading, rev to 2500-take a reading and then rev to 5k-take a reading. Correct?

I'm getting 13.5 or so at 2500, but it drops to 13.3 at 5k. It should be below 14.5, but higher at 5k than at 2500, right? Indicating that the regulator is not working correctly.

 

[old_skool]

Okay, very helpful information. Figured I was confused about what I was seeing.

Couldn't figure out how to interpret what the meter was telling me in steps 7 and 9 with the 1. The test steps said I should be seeing 1.5 volts to keep going and if I saw 1.00 volts the test failed. The fact that the meter didn't appear to register anything confused me a good bit. Autozone's finest.

Now, if I get what you are telling me...the stator and rectifier pass the test, but the regulator might be malfunctioning by not providing enough charge to the battery while running.

The test for that is to idle the bike take a reading, rev to 2500-take a reading and then rev to 5k-take a reading. Correct?

I'm getting 13.5 or so at 2500, but it drops to 13.3 at 5k. It should be below 14.5, but higher at 5k than at 2500, right? Indicating that the regulator is not working correctly.

You might need to provide some history on your stator/RR for your bike.
Have you re-wired the 3 leads from the stator to the RR, have you given it a good ground directly to the battery, have you given it a good power source fused to the battery, the factory stator wiring sucks, a lot of resistance, plus one lead runs off to a source for sensing voltage before returning, another loss of voltage, what shape are the connectors, been replaced with spades? soldered?? Your RR as is, is charging the battery according to your readings, could be better on the higher RPMs, not sure if it's weak, going bad, or normal. Depends on a lot of variables, plus, is the battery new? state of current charge? Sorry to have made what already was troubling you a little, tougher now, but you want to do it right.

 

[Killer2600]

I'm getting 13.5 or so at 2500, but it drops to 13.3 at 5k. It should be below 14.5, but higher at 5k than at 2500, right? Indicating that the regulator is not working correctly.

Check voltage drop between R/R (+) and Battery (+) as well as between R/R (-) and Battery (-) at 2.5k and 5k rpm. Readings over 0.25V or that are noticeably higher at 5k indicate bad/dirty connections that should be cleaned up.

Some members here like to wire the R/R (+) and (-) directly, fused of course, to the battery to have the best possible connection.

If that isn't the issue then your stator is probably on it's way out.

 

[oldrookie]

Some of this I don't know for sure. Non stock RR in the bike...but I only know that because Griffin noted that the rr was not stock...but the stator is stock.

Battery was new last june and on a tender all winter

 

[oldrookie]

All of these items are probably the next logical step in bringing the old gal back to shape anyway.

I've been taking care of basic maintenance items, or items that broke, since I got the bike last June. Haven't been worried about cosmetics--it has been about getting the bike mechanically sound. Haven't gotten to the electrical system, but I guess the bike has me on notice that some things must be moved to the front burner.

 

[tom203]

Some of this I don't know for sure. Non stock RR in the bike...but I only know that because Griffin noted that the rr was not stock...but the stator is stock.

Battery was new last june and on a tender all winter

Any pic of ,markings on this "non stock" R/R. It could be no good, but it's also possible that stator is failing as it starts producing current. I'd try another R/R after doublechecking all connections.

 

[oldrookie]

Finals week. Up to my ears in grading. Will get pix when I get time. Probably Thursday.

 

[oldrookie]

No name R/R

How the PO grounded the battery to the R/R. This wire was melted when I got the bike.
I replaced it because I didn't know any other way to do it.

Found evidence of an over heated POS connector. Not sure if it is new or old, but it looks old to me.

 

[tom203]

I'd try another R/R- that one leaves me uninspired. How about this one for $20- a true classic!



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOND...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25709018f1

 

[old_skool]

Sent you a pm with a link to the exact one I put on my Tempter, it's a little larger than the oem, but I managed to mount it in the same place as the original, just have to manipulate the fuse box a smidgen, if you buy it, let me know, I'll pull the side cover off of mine, take some pics and walk you you through it, from install to wiring.

 

[old_skool]

I'd try another R/R- that one leaves me uninspired. How about this one for $20- a true classic!



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOND...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25709018f1

No offense, I know you were trying to help, but the seller list it as a sh532, and the pics clearly show it's a sh232, So I wouldn't trust him in the first place, and while if it's in good order, it might work, as the suggested replacements list this as a possible replacement, I think it was only meant as a possibility if your old one is bad, and it's available, not necessarily as upgrade but it's as old as the one coming off and no greater amp either. Kinda like someone shooting you in the left foot, and shooting yourself in the right one to have a match...if your going to replace, might as well as upgrade and go newer, there are plenty of sh541's available for under 20 bucks with free shipping that are newer and a higher 25amp rating, gives you a little breathing room.

 

[old_skool]

No name R/R

How the PO grounded the battery to the R/R. This wire was melted when I got the bike.
I replaced it because I didn't know any other way to do it.

Found evidence of an over heated POS connector. Not sure if it is new or old, but it looks old to me.

If I have it my way, and you call for the help after you buy one, you and your side cutters are going to get real friendly, you'll not use any of those wires near the regulator, I'm going to have you trace the 3 alt wires from where they appear at the trans and go up the frame to the backbone to the 3 bullet connectors, that's where we will be using newer wires going directly back to the RR.

 

[old_skool]

For anyone else
35amp replacement ebay id 190680481981
25amp 290700915157
" " 110836998820
" " 110771663328

The 35amp is a live auction, the 25 amps are buy it now with free shipping all under $20

 

[tom203]

No offense, I know you were trying to help, but the seller list it as a sh532, and the pics clearly show it's a sh232, So I wouldn't trust him in the first place, and while if it's in good order, it might work,

"might work" ? more likely would work! I noticed the the 532; just wrote it off as typo. This is a early Shindengen-used on lots of bikes (including mine) , fully capable of handling a suzuki 250 watt stator output. You can opt for 35 amp R/R's but its overkill. I just wanted to Mr. old_school to try a different one and put this problem behind him.

 

[posplayr]

I should mention that that ground strap between the Battery(-) to the R/R mounting bolt is doing absolutely nothing for the R/R.

You need to put a ring lub on the R/R(-) and connect it to the same mounting bolt.

I also don't see an evidence of dielectric grease.

 

[old_skool]

"might work" ? more likely would work! I noticed the the 532; just wrote it off as typo. This is a early Shindengen-used on lots of bikes (including mine) , fully capable of handling a suzuki 250 watt stator output. You can opt for 35 amp R/R's but its overkill. I just wanted to Mr. old_school to try a different one and put this problem behind him.

Your taking offense as none was intended, and yes, as I previously stated, it probably would work, but for how long, it's 30+ years old, used with poor wiring, possibly bad connections throughout the bike taxing it's ability and possibly shortening it life, no idea how long it will last, even if it does work, 1 week, or 30 years, I was merely pointing out there are other better option available and almost as inexpensive, most electrical parts have no returns, why throw $10 now and maybe more later, rather than buying the first thing that comes along, a little thought about the whole process might save money and headaches in the long run. As far as overkill, no such thing, it allows greater voltage without overheating and shorting as fast, if they weren't useful, they wouldn't be using them on other bikes, and we wouldn't be replacing ours. Think of it in terms of like using a heavier gauge wire, can handle more voltage should the unexpected need arise.