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Want to give my 850g some ZIPPE!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter zuki4life
  • Start date Start date
Z

zuki4life

Guest
Ok, I ran my 79` gs850g for the first time :D,In love,

2 things i noticed- 1. very cold blooded took some juice to get it going, It took a good 3-4 mins for it run off of choke. it wasnt as responsive as I thought it would be. I did get the speedometer reading 80mph at 6,000 rpms. I also have vhnm carbs and i did clean them quit throughly.

2nd. when shifting from neutral into 1st the bike has seems to lurk is it just what they do, or is their a problem my friends 1000L does same thing?shifts like butter though..

CAN Any OF YOU GUYS help. And to the guys that created this site:clap: thanks, i cant believe how much i learned Im a 18 yr kid wish i was born in the 70s when you actually knew how a motor work.

So my finally, how would I go about giving my bike the a little extra umph. New jets maybe? without killing mpg. Eventually im sticking a 1100 motor in this sucker with a nitrius kit, but for now I want a bike I can get good mpg,but run with buds 1000( because he was making me look like a fool blowing by me at 100+):D
 
yes, she is sounds Great. I did a soso clean out of the airbox, and when I cleaned the carbs I remove the needle that your forbidden to remove according to the fine print in the manual that you never see until you remove them! I think I put them back right, theres no way to know, or is there? I want to upgrade the jets, but I just dont like how cold blooded it seems.

I have read in Basscliff carb spot all about my carbs, something just isnt make sense! My friends 81` 1000L that use to be a 1100 we threw that together in 1.5 with the 1100 carbs, which we didnt clean, and its running better and starts better than my art work that I put together. Granted I didnt to a complete stripp don the carbs,but I did the clean the bowls give em once over, throughly clean jets and put r back together.

I know Im rambling just am scratching my head :confused: as to whys so coldblooded im going to adjust points, and later on ad new coils.
 
The fine 'forbidden needle' (that's a great name for it) is the fuel screw. On your bike it should be set at about 5/8 of a turn out from lightly seated. The airscrew on the side should be 11/4 turns out but you adjust this depending on how your engine sounds.

Did your fuel needles look like the ones in the photos with a very fine point? They are often over-tightened and snap off, blocking that part of the pilot circuit.
 
yes those are the needles, when i sat down and cleaned the carbs I didnt rush took my time unscrewing the bowl screws and went to pull them off expecting them to practly fall off them selfs, but nope i had to give them a Yank:D. But before all that I took one of the '' forbidden screws" out not even thinking I was digging my own grave,:cry: reinstalled it to all of them to what I think was right, and went about cleaning.


So, what is the exact purpose of the the "forbidden screw"?

Also how do you tell when your bike is to lean or rich??? Really like to find the answer for that.
 
My 79 had the original clutch actuator in the clutch was the original one. there was a change in them the difference is the whole diameters, I found a new one on ebay, made a difference.
 
It's perfectly normal for the bike to require a few min's of running before you can turn off the choke.

If your air box is properly sealed with fresh foam, the filter clean, and the exhaust in the stock configuration, then there is no reason to mess with the jetting. Leave it alone and do NOT try to rejet.

Opening the fuel screws an extra 1/8 turn will make the mixture richer. Your fuel mileage will suffer, but the cold blooded tendency will decrease, assuming the problem is the mixture and not something related to poor maintenance.

BTW, you might want to check the Newbie Mistake thread linked in my signature. It's best to know what NOT to do, before you become a mistake victim.
 
I'll give it a try Nessism, thanks for replies guys, so with the changing the clutch it helped? I read a lot by reading your newbies mistakes. I learned a ton! I live in southern Iowa and want to try to ride to grand canyon some time this year!

Here's some pics of carbs and jets.
 
Pic of bike. We're you in a bad accident Nessism? Saw pics on blog
 
Pic of bike. We're you in a bad accident Nessism? Saw pics on blog

I have no blog, but got wacked while on my 450 in 2006.

Those carbs look dirty. Better check your tank for rust.

BTW, a transmission clunk when engaging 1st gear is normal. Make sure your clutch cable has the proper amount of free play and then I wouldn't worry about it unless there is clunking during shifting.
 
That a pic of carbs was before I cleaned it, I was a little to anxious after cleaning them to take pics. shifts as should, I'm thinking my clutch is fine fine.

how exactly would I adjust my clutch cable?
 
Hi,

Have you adjusted the valves? Go through the entire maintenance list in the "mega-welcome". Taking shortcuts or skipping steps will be frustrating at best, dangerous at worst.

There's really not much you can do to give these old girls much extra "umph". They are heavy and have only about 77 horses stock. The return on doing the whole pipes, pods, jetting thing is not worth the investment in time and money. Just do all the required maintenance and get it running as efficiently as possible. Then when you spin it up past 6000 you'll get the rush.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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