• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Weak spark on point for 1-4

  • Thread starter Thread starter giganticflying
  • Start date Start date
G

giganticflying

Guest
Hey everyone,

I've been having what I thought were fuel issues with the bike recently till I realized that its just cylinders 1-4. The spark plugs on those cylinders were fouled and 2-3 looked fine.


A few months ago I got new points, set the gap, and did the timing.

I tore back into it today and noticed that the spark looks super weak on point 1-4. My question is, could this be the coil? If so, how do I test? I have a multimeter, but I've never used one before. Can someone lend me some instruction on how to test the coils? Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:
I would first regap the plugs and see what the spark looks like then. If no change, I would take a screw driver and remove the plug gripper thing inside the boot. Look in and you should see a screw driver slot in there. Unscrew it and dump the contents into your hand. the ceramic thing is a resistor..get rid of them!!! Get some heavy copper rod or similar thats close to the diameter of the resistors and cut it to length.

Get rid of all of them actually. 1 and 4 will not have a spring...2 and 3 will. on 2 and 3 put the spring in first then the metal replacement. Screw in the plug gripping thing and be done with the resistor crap forever.
 
Sorry, I think I need to clarify. The spark is weak on the 1-4 point itself. It doesn't seem to be as nearly bright as the 2-3 point. I've tried to sand down the contacts a little but its still pretty weak.

Maybe there is a better way to put it that I just don't know about yet.
 
Last edited:
Long as they are gapped properly is all that matters...and a thousanth difference between the two may make one arch a little. Button it up and forget about it.
 
Thanks for the reply. I absolutely get what you're saying about the gap and I've been as diligent as I can be about making sure my the gap is correctly set.

The connection between the repeatedly fouled plugs on 1 and 4 and the seemingly weak spark at the point is too hard to ignore though.

Can someone please lend some advice as to how to test the could with a multimeter since I I've never used it before?

Again, I have new-ish points and the timing is pretty spot on, though even during the timing the light bulb was during noticeably dimmer when attached to 1 than 2.
 
Take a piece of paper and put it in the points so it doesnt go to ground. Look at what color wire is going to the point in question. take off the tank and find the coil with the same color wire going to it and unplug the wire. test continuity form the points end to the coil end of the wire.
 
Chuck, If there is some spark on 1/4 then there will be continuity. Suggest perhaps the condensor associated with 1/4 is the culprit. Swap it with 2/3 condensor and see if the problem moves to that pair of cylinders. If it does, buy a new points ignition tune up set and install or go to a Dyna S. Might also start by swapping 2/3 coil with 1/4 coil (making sure plug wires continue to go to the correct plugs) and see if there is a possible coil issue.
 
Thanks for the advice. Those points and condensers are new, but maybe I'll try to swap the coils to see if that is the issue.
 
He doesnt have a problem with spark at the plugs Goel...hes worried about the arching down at the points themselves. Points dont "usually" throw off big sparks...usually. I have had the springs bend in and cause problems with good ignition though. Arching from the spring to ground isnt good. I always make sure that after I do points maintenance the springs is straight in line like it should be.
 
Mostly I'm just trying to make some sort of deduction from the fouled plugs on 1 and 4, inconsistent feeling of acceleration when riding, and the point for 1 and 4 looking weaker when the contacts on the points are sparking/arching(?) while the engine is turning/idling/throttle is applied. Maybe I'll try to take some pictures later.
 
Got a lot of extra length on the plug wires??? Unscrew the caps and cut about 1/4 inch off the wires and screws the caps back on. Fresh connections make for better spark...which in turn leads to better fuel burn in the cylinders.
 
Back
Top