Weird Electrical Problem. Not sure where to turn

[RustRider]

Is there a particular brand or source I should seek out for a replacement R/R? Is this ok: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1983-SUZUKI-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-GS1100GL-GS-1100-GL

 

[posplayr]

dont egg him on Tom get the SH-775

 

[posplayr]

I got a hold of a meter. I'm getting approximately the same resistance reading regardless of direction between the red (hot) and ground wires coming out of the R/R when using the diode check function of the meter. I'm going to order a R/R and see if that fixes the problem. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Thanks for every one's input.

That is NOT the proper test for checking your diodes.

You test between each stator line and RED and then all three with BLACK

 

[Guest]

Your best bet would be a series type R/R that shuts off when no charging is needed instead of shunting through the stator windings. The top of the line would be the CompuFire, I believe the SH-775 from a Polaris is lower priced and more in line with the output characteristics of our stator, but it is fairly new to the scene. If it turns out to be as reliable as the CompuFire, it may become the R/R of choice, only time will tell.

 

[RustRider]

That is NOT the proper test for checking your diodes.

You test between each stator line and RED and then all three with BLACK

I did some proper testing as posplayr recommended. There are two matrices below. The first is the test using the meter's diode test setting, the second using resistance setting. I check each combination then switched the meter leads and did the same combinations.

Just for kicks I hooked everything up again on the bike. With the bike off, everything connected, and the main fuse over fused, the R/R gets warm to the touch.

Any help interpreting the results from testing the R/R would be greatly appreciated. Also, if it does look like the R/R is the problem, pointers to a good place to get a new one would be great!

 

[posplayr]

I did some proper testing as posplayr recommended. There are two matrices below. The first is the test using the meter's diode test setting, the second using resistance setting. I check each combination then switched the meter leads and did the same combinations.

Just for kicks I hooked everything up again on the bike. With the bike off, everything connected, and the main fuse over fused, the R/R gets warm to the touch.

Any help interpreting the results from testing the R/R would be greatly appreciated. Also, if it does look like the R/R is the problem, pointers to a good place to get a new one would be great!

your test results are not showing, but if the key is off and the R/R is getting hot with the engine off means there is current flowing through. With a properly functioning diode bridge rectifier (R part of R/R) that is not possible when the engine is off.


Maybe you mis reported before the way you did the tests but with the new observations it sounds like the R/R is toast.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Since you all are talking Reg/Rectifiers. With regards to the Compufire R/R I have been looking at them to upgrade my 82 gs1100ez from the stock unit. I see they have several amperages to choose from. Would any one know what the requirements are for that bike or how many amps the stator can possibly produce? Only specs I find for it is over 80 Volts AC output at 5000 r.p.m.. I am trying to deciede on either the 32A or the 40A .Several $$ differance between them. I don't know if this means a thing prob don't. But if adding up all the fuses including the accessory fuse I came up with 55 amps. So i'm sure its under that I would think. No where in the service manual or service specs can I find any output amperages except for the battery and it is 14Ah. And I still don't understand amp hours . Thanks in advance.

 

[posplayr]

Since you all are talking Reg/Rectifiers. With regards to the Compufire R/R I have been looking at them to upgrade my 82 gs1100ez from the stock unit. I see they have several amperages to choose from. Would any one know what the requirements are for that bike or how many amps the stator can possibly produce? Only specs I find for it is over 80 Volts AC output at 5000 r.p.m.. I am trying to deciede on either the 32A or the 40A .Several $$ differance between them. I don't know if this means a thing prob don't. But if adding up all the fuses including the accessory fuse I came up with 55 amps. So i'm sure its under that I would think. No where in the service manual or service specs can I find any output amperages except for the battery and it is 14Ah. And I still don't understand amp hours . Thanks in advance.

There is only one applicable. See the link in my signature for the proper part number. You need a 3 phase unit which all the rest are 2 phase.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

I thank you for straightening that out for me. It looks like my mind is made up for me. Part# 55402 40A here we come. I'm going to put a amp meter at the main fuse just to see what is going on for future referances.Thanks again

 

[posplayr]

I thank you for straightening that out for me. It looks like my mind is made up for me. Part# 55402 40A here we come. I'm going to put a amp meter at the main fuse just to see what is going on for future referances.Thanks again

The GS electrical needs about 10-11 amps. At idle that is about all the R/R will generate. As RPM's increase current will plateau at about 14 amps with the excess (of 10-11 amps) going to charge the battery.

Most amp meters are +/- 60 amps so this will barely show.

I would recommend a digital volt meter as being the most useful. Something like this................

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FXIJZC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1NQ6C701T67D9

I currently have a VDO 8-16V 45 deg sweep and it is useable but not real useful as the range of swing is so small.

If you want to get really involved this would be the way to go

http://www.homeof12volt.com/shop/in...0?ps_session=857ebf35e6780e6cd391ea0d6ddb4151

cheaper and pretty big but apparently this works as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Volt-Meter-Digital-Shunt-200V/dp/B005HBBZEM/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

 

[ianryeng]

Not trying to high-jack your thread but where do you get this Polaris SH-775 regulator?

 

[RustRider]

your test results are not showing

Sorry about that. See attached thumbnail.

 

[posplayr]

Sorry about that. See attached thumbnail.

Sorry, based on those results the r/r is either really screwed up or just fine

If I assume you did the measurements correctly it says that of the 6 diodes three are shorted and 3 are open; in other words they are all broke,

If I look at the symmetry of the measurements and assume you mis labeled something then I would say all is OK except I don't think you changed the headlamp loop for the R/W stator leg.

Did you ever do a Quick Test? It takes 5 minutes if the bike is together.

On the other hand if I believe the tests where the R/R gets hot with the engine off then maybe the thing is fried. What type of R/R is this? You have to realize that the diode tests only apply to a standard SCR Shunt type R/R. Even the FET shunt does not have all 6 diodes making the test much less than fail proof.

 

[RustRider]

The R/R is the original. I have not had a chance to do the Quick test. I know the battery is good and the stator is charging it. I don't know if there is over charging.

The electronics on this bike look very much un-tampered with. There is no aftermarket work to the bike and all the harnesses look like factory jobs. I'm thinking is might be worth putting in a new R/R as this one seems cooked. If it doesn't fix the problem at least it's one thing off the list and I can work forward.

Not trying to high-jack your thread but where do you get this Polaris SH-775 regulator?

I was also unable to find any info online about this unit. I was going to call the local chopper shop and see what they can get in.

 

[posplayr]

The R/R is the original. I have not had a chance to do the Quick test. I know the battery is good and the stator is charging it. I don't know if there is over charging.

The electronics on this bike look very much un-tampered with. There is no aftermarket work to the bike and all the harnesses look like factory jobs. I'm thinking is might be worth putting in a new R/R as this one seems cooked. If it doesn't fix the problem at least it's one thing off the list and I can work forward.



I was also unable to find any info online about this unit. I was going to call the local chopper shop and see what they can get in.

All the info is here. By all accounts so far (but not guaranteed) the SH-775 is the equivalent of the Compufire( a series R/R) That would make it 4 total SERIES R/R that I know of exist (Compufire, SH-775, Cycle Electric and a German manufacturer also make them). I have documented the Compufire performance but not ever had the chance with the SH-0775.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1849963&highlight=Polaris#post1849963



http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=200004&highlight=SERIES

 

[gs11ezrydr]

I have had several Suzuki R/R's act as yours with getting hot or draining the battery while not running. And the test I have done (not saying it is right) was to test between the + pos. and - neg. at the reg/rect on found them to have direct continuity.Shorted to ground therefore requiring repl. Seems like you have a similar situation here. Off base a little here. I have had some LT160 atv's a few years back that the rubber boot covering the battery/starter connections at the selenoid had a real high "carbon" content when manufactured and caused the battery to drain down.Wierd. After I diagnoised it a few times Suzuki came out with a bulletin for us techs. Just wanted to share that. :-k

 

[posplayr]

I have had several Suzuki R/R's act as yours with getting hot or draining the battery while not running. And the test I have done (not saying it is right) was to test between the + pos. and - neg. at the reg/rect on found them to have direct continuity.Shorted to ground therefore requiring repl. Seems like you have a similar situation here. Off base a little here. I have had some LT160 atv's a few years back that the rubber boot covering the battery/starter connections at the selenoid had a real high "carbon" content when manufactured and caused the battery to drain down.Wierd. After I diagnoised it a few times Suzuki came out with a bulletin for us techs. Just wanted to share that. :-k

That is interesting in that normally I would assume that the power devices(either diodes or s cr's )would fail either open or closed. What you are reporting suggests the low power sense electronics of the regulator can short. This does make sense in that a direct short would blow a fuze, a soft short ( higher impedance) would create a smaller drain less than the fuze value but still drain the battery

 

[tom203]

Not trying to high-jack your thread but where do you get this Polaris SH-775 regulator?

Apparently used on Polaris stuff- like this

Utility Vehicles 2011R11HR76AG/AR RANGER 6X6 800 EFI

The following link now leads to backorder statement- might have to search for the SH-775 elsewhere

http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1433499&category=Utility

 

[RustRider]

Success

Success

Once again, thank you to everyone who had input on my problem. I put in a new R/R and all is well. I got a Rick's motorsport electronics one. It's an after-market unit that plugs right in. I looked into the Polaris one but the dealer was quite far away. Mainly out of convenience, I had the chopper shop down the street order this one.

I did have bad grounding to the starter solenoid. I think this is unrelated. I made a new ground lead for that and the bike is running great.

 

[850GT_Rider]

Apparently used on Polaris stuff- like this

Utility Vehicles 2011R11HR76AG/AR RANGER 6X6 800 EFI

The following link now leads to backorder statement- might have to search for the SH-775 elsewhere

http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1433499&category=Utility

I just ordered one of those and I THINK it came to the house. I'll find out when I get home tomorrow.
May have squeaked in under whatever deadline they had.....

Edit - I wonder if it's ALL Polaris dealers or just Cycle Parts Warehouse?