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Weird valve issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter overboostin
  • Start date Start date
O

overboostin

Guest
Here's a Weird one, when I turn over the motor by hand the number 4 intake valve pops and oil shoots out. Any thoughts?

Also, if anyone from RI,MA,CT wants to take a stab at working on it, I've got a budget of about $500 max. I can't work on it anymore, I've got too many other stressors in my life right now, I just want to be able to ride it.
 
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28 views and no suggestions?hm.C'mon people i didn' t start this thread hehe.
Need more info,pics or vid maybe?never heard of this before.does it run at all?smoke?Help us help you?where does the oild "squirt " from?is it a "pop" spund?Is #4 plug wet with oil?not uncommon this old a bike may need valve seals and lap them while in there.
 
I just saw it, but the "pops" indicates to me that it was binding for some reason and then came free. If so, why was it in a bind? Where did the oil come from (other than inside the engine)? What event releases it from a bind? Was the head removed? Cams? Are the cams timed correctly WRT the crank?
We need a bit of history rather than just throwing out a bunch of theories.
BTW, "Weird valve issue" is enough of a description to cause someone to look, but when they see what the actual issue is, which appears to be "when I turn over the motor by hand the number 4 intake valve pops and oil shoots out" they do not know what to do. See the difference in the titles?
Title 1 "Weird valve issue"
Title 2 "when I turn over the motor by hand the number 4 intake valve pops and oil shoots out"
Which one tells you more and motivates you to look?
This is why there are so many looks and no responses.
 
Allright, i'll bite, where does the oil "shoot" out? :)

With what you are telling here, i think you should check the valve seats or at least replace the valve seals. It seems that oil is leaking by the seals and running on the intake valve. When you start the engine, does it smoke? if so, it confirms my theory.

Changing the seals is best done with the head off, but there are ways do bypass that. It all depends of your skills as a mechanic.
Changing the seats requires to take off the head.
 
More info please- your last posts indicated you were doing a valve check/adjustment- is this complete or still in process?
 
yes, more info needed for sure. it seems the valve cover must be off or the exhaust. (only way to see a valve(
did you bend a valve during a timing procedure causing sticking? causing sticking?
installed a valve keeper wrong, and have a binding valve spring?
where is the oil squirting from?
Please give us the current/previous running condition of the bike.
is it fully assembled? or do you have stuff taken apart?
please give us the full story:)
 
The valve cover was off from doing a valve job. I noticed after the new shim that it squirt oil. Shim seems to be seated properly. The cam lobe will depress the valve, rotate around release the valve and POP squirt a little stream of oil flies across the garage. Im thinking maybe a sticky valve seal? I've got some
Marvel in the tank right now, think that would be able to loosen it up?
 
sounds to me like the valve pocket is full of oil. as the valve springs up it forces a squirt of oil out.
oil will not be able to enter the valve pocket via the valve guide seal
 
Just noticed the oil sight was empty. This is strange considering yesterday it was full and there are no wet spots under the bike.
 
overboostin said:
Just noticed the oil sight was empty. This is strange considering yesterday it was full and there are no wet spots under the bike.
Click to expand...

Don't take this the wrong way, but do you have it on the center stand when viewing the oil sight?
 
once it sits for at least 15 minutes after running, it should show the true level.
I was surprized that after my rebuild how much oil it takes. the manual will tell you(just example numbers)
oil change w/o filter 3.9 quarts
with filter replacement 4.4 quarts
oil after rebuild 5.2 quarts....as long as you wait long enough, just add till at the proper mark. it will not be at the proper mark till you run the engine and circulate oil through the whole system, then let it rest to show the true level.
 
What concerns me most about this thread is the "POP". Why does it pop?
 
loud et said:
once it sits for at least 15 minutes after running, it should show the true level.
I was surprized that after my rebuild how much oil it takes. the manual will tell you(just example numbers)
oil change w/o filter 3.9 quarts
with filter replacement 4.4 quarts
oil after rebuild 5.2 quarts....as long as you wait long enough, just add till at the proper mark. it will not be at the proper mark till you run the engine and circulate oil through the whole system, then let it rest to show the true level.
Click to expand...

I let it rest overnight
 
Valve buckets sometimes get stuck in the bore. If it started happening after a valve adjustment, it may be due to a metal shaving that was dislodged into the bore. It may be that the piston hitting the valve is what finally gets it to pop, so be careful not to bend a valve.
 
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