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Well, my first broken exhaust bolt

  • Thread starter Thread starter jbayreaux
  • Start date Start date
J

jbayreaux

Guest
I was getting started on this project:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=95221

The first header bolt I tried to back out of the engine head, just sheared off like butter. At first, it was coming out fine but then... disaster. I think it broke off "just above flush." So there might be something to work with. I dunno, I am too afraid to even attempt removal of the remaining 3 bolts. I took her around the block and she seems to be running fine on just 3 bolts, no exhaust leak or any noticable problems. But I tell you what, it is bugging the heck out of me. I searched GSR on this very issue, and oh my, am I in for some sh**!!!

I have a plan of action:
1) chunk the WD40 and buy PB Blast and drench the area(s) with it for the next 3-4 days
2) buy an easyout and, with care, back out the broken bolt.
a) if I still have some bolt sticking out, tig something to it and back it out with whatever is attached to it.
3) Remove the remaining 3 and replace them.

Oh god I really messed up now!!!
 
All three of the GS engines I owned/ worked on had exhaust bolts broken off.
I just carefully drilled out and retaped the bolt hole or helicoiled if I had to.
Always turned out good- less of a nitemare then it seems.
1. center punch in the center of broken bolt.
2. center drill
3. drill bolt undersize to try easy out. dont break easyout (then you got a problem) penetrateing oil and heat may help (seldom)
4. If easyout doesnt work stepup drill sizes until you get to original tap drill size. try to hold location of original bolt hole.
5. attempt to retap to original thread size.
6. if too much material is gone for original tap size- drill out and Helicoil

Sharp drills, cutting oil and patience will help in this proceedure

Good luck!!!!
 
I broke mine too. It languished for about 3 weeks until I decided to do something. I drilled out the old bolt, slightly undersized. I then found a 8mm tap (from pep-boys) and tapped it. Clean as a whistle!
 
bolt out

bolt out

Yes, I always drill out first with a small carbide bit, stepping up a size or two, sometimes. If you don't expand the bolt thru too much heat, or by using an "easy" out by pounding it in, it can even be twisted out with a screwdriver from the inside, once it is thin enough. (Also reverse thread bits are great to have on hand.) Of course, if there is any stump, as said, you may be able to use that to get it out. I like Kroil, too!

Mike in PA
 
Easy-outs are an oxy-moron. Don't do it.

Drill it out and try to pick th thread pieces out. Use studs instead. Those bolts were one of the dumb ideas Suzuki had at the time, not thinking ahead they used soft steel in aluminum, a recipe for disaster.
 
Well, these words are very encouraging. Not only that, I am educated (dont use easyouts, Kroil rocks).

I think I am going to go all the way and replace all bolts with studs. I see that is going to be a major job, but might as well do it right. Thanks yall. :-D
 
I had 5 out of the eight exhaust bolts break on my '79 GS850G. This after two weeks of occasional sprays of PB Blaster, pounding on the bolt heads with a drift and gently trying to "rock" the bolts in and out. So the moral of the story is by trying any of the methods you will get some success, maybe not complete success though. I guess you have too look at it this way. Suzuki used soft exhaust bolts which break off real easy, the bad part. The good part is since they are so soft, they can be drilled out very easily! Then you can upgrade or improve with studs or whatever new bolts you choose so that it doesn't happen again. I went with studs because if sometime in the future if the nut should rust onto the stud, it can easily be removed buy cutting through it with a dremel. Then just get a new nut! I used stainless steel studs and nuts. Time will tell if it was worth the extra price over a good grade 8 stud and nut.
 
EZ-out: Oxymoron at large

EZ-out: Oxymoron at large

The problem with an EZ out is that it acts as a wedge, and will almost invariably expand the bolt, making it even harder to get out than before.

I have a tiny set of broaches that I use to extract broken bolts from dies and other equipment; they will take a drilled hole and broach it to a hex so you can use a key, but even this can cause the bolt to expand.

THe basic trouble is dielectric corrosion- the process whereby a steel bolt in an aluminum head has an ion exchange which causes corrosion. One part or the other has to give in.

I used my dremel to sand the head of the bolt off flat as I could get it
Then I used a small pair of dividers to find the center, and gently center punched a hole. THe closer to the center of the bolt this is, the better this will work. I then drilled the smallest hole I could drill in the bolt, and increased the hole size by one drill bit at a time until I had drilled the bolt almost completely out. When I could start seeing the threads, I knew I was about home free. At one point i was actually able to grab the thread and pull it out like a tiny slinky. THis takes a lot of time and care, and I think it must have taken me five hours, but it was still better than pulling the engine out of the bike. I ended up using stainless studs and chromey nuts. It looks nice now.
 
The last post is the best advice. I did what he said for the first two bolts, starting with a small drill bit and then gradually increasing the size and it worked great. Then the next one I tried a small bit and then jumped to the final 17/64 size and it didn't work. The bit drifted off center really far into the aluminum head.
 
Napa sells a stud kit for 12.99 that is perfect. Bring a bolt along to find the right one. you get 10 studs and 10 nuts, just like the after party at a lady gaga show.
 
duaneage said:
Napa sells a stud kit for 12.99 that is perfect. Bring a bolt along to find the right one. you get 10 studs and 10 nuts, just like the after party at a lady gaga show.
Click to expand...
lmfao:D mine came out today, thank god....:eek:
 
duaneage said:
Easy-outs are an oxy-moron. Don't do it.

Drill it out and try to pick th thread pieces out. Use studs instead. Those bolts were one of the dumb ideas Suzuki had at the time, not thinking ahead they used soft steel in aluminum, a recipe for disaster.
Click to expand...

I loved it. I was able to drill out my broken stud with standard HSS drillbits. I'll take that over invulnerable exhaust studs any day.

mhardig said:
THe basic trouble is dielectric corrosion- the process whereby a steel bolt in an aluminum head has an ion exchange which causes corrosion. One part or the other has to give in.
Click to expand...

It's technically bimetallic corrosion. The same thing that made getting the aluminum power steering bracket off my volvo a nightmare. Not to mention that some idjit put a steel bolt that would see torques into a soft aluminum mount >.<
Anyway, agreed. Easy outs are anything but easy to get out.

duaneage said:
Napa sells a stud kit for 12.99 that is perfect. Bring a bolt along to find the right one. you get 10 studs and 10 nuts, just like the after party at a lady gaga show.
Click to expand...

Hahhaah!

SKD said:
lmfao:D mine came out today, thank god....:eek:
Click to expand...

Awesome!

Next time I have a stuck bolt, I want one of these QuikCenter deals: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbDF9P1uDyk
That and cobalt steel drill bits.

Safe Rides
 
I had the same problem broken exhaust bolts I tig welded a nut on to the end of the broken stud and the heat from the welding helped me me rock the broken bolt out

ant
 
a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone was measured to be the best on stuck bolts. this combination required far less torque than the liquid wrenches and pb blasters. you can get acetone at a tractor supply
 
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