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Well that didn't go so well(clear coat)

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVSooke
  • Start date Start date
It all depends on how well the clear sets up. If it's hard enough to sand without gumming up the paper in a two or three days, and if it were me trying to save what I could rather than starting all over again, I'd make certain it's hard all the way through before trying to knock down the heavy stuff.

You used a hardener in the clear didn't you?

By the way, you'll need some thing a bit more aggressive than 1000 grit to sand those runs down at first. I'm thinking 320 used 'wet' on the heavy stuff, then you can work your way on up the grit scale when you get the high spots knocked down. It all depends on how much clear is over the base and how the defects look.

Personally, I'd strip the tank and start over. Sorry..

How about a few more pictures now that everything has had a chance to settle down a bit.
 
rustybronco said:
It all depends on how well the clear sets up. If it's hard enough to sand without gumming up the paper in a two or three days, and if it were me trying to save what I could rather than starting all over again, I'd make certain it's hard all the way through before trying to knock down the heavy stuff.

You used a hardener in the clear didn't you?

By the way, you'll need some thing a bit more aggressive than 1000 grit to sand those runs down at first. I'm thinking 320 used 'wet' on the heavy stuff, then you can work your way on up the grit scale when you get the high spots knocked down. It all depends on how much clear is over the base and how the defects look.

Personally, I'd strip the tank and start over. Sorry..

How about a few more pictures now that everything has had a chance to settle down a bit.
Click to expand...

If you used 320, then you will have to respray. If there are high spots then even an 800 will knock them down fast. If there is any hope of salvaging a finish shine, you will have to get back up to 1500 and 2000 before buffing.
 
rustybronco said:
I'm thinking 320 used 'wet' on the heavy stuff, then you can work your way on up the grit scale when you get the high spots knocked down.
Click to expand...
I'm not saying mine is the best way nor the only way of doing things. It's all up to the person with the sanding block in his hand.
 
SVSooke said:
So I do have one question,how long should I wait before I sand this down?
Click to expand...

All depends on what it is. Check the data sheet that came with the paint and it shoud tell you how long the paint will take to be "dry to the touch" and "fully cured". If it is a catalyzed polyurethane you can start wet sanding it in as little as 24 hrs.

For the big runs and drips you can cut them down with a razor block or nib file to save time and excess sanding. Then go over it with 600 grit wet paper. For some of the thicker runs/sags you will have to use something a little coarser like 400 grit to cut them down. You'll have to go slow and do one small area at a time to avoid cutting into the color underneath. It will be tedious work but I think you can salvage it. When you get it all smoothed out to where you are satisfied with it, prep and reshoot the clear. Do one piece and make sure the clear is laying down and flowing out properly before moving on to the rest of the pieces. I'm sure that you don't want to have to sand everything out again if it isn't turning out right the second time.
 
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OK I already have more clear so getting what I have here smooth enough to reclear is what I'm after.Yes Dale I put the recommended 4:1 hardener ratio in the clearcoat.Have some 400 wet/dry here to knock down the worst stuff.Will wait till Thursday to start that,just to be sure.Did do a gun improvement to:


A gauge/regulator at the gun,figure I can use it if there is a better gun in my future.
 
Also, I have found it well worth it to buy and use the silicone and detergent solvents to wipe the surfaces with, prior to spraying, followed by a tack cloth.
I may not have read every single word of the thread, but ... what paint system are you using?

S.
 
I was using up some Nason clear I had left over from the time I painted the 85 750 yellow.It's going over Plasti-Kote and Dupli-Color automotive touch up paint that's been freshly applied.The supplier I use is dropping Nason and DuPont systems in favor of Valspar so the new clear I bought is Valspar.The Nason clear was 2 years old but Larry (NVR2OLD) told me to get new hardener so I did.Only repainting because I didn't put enough hardener in the clearcoat when I did it yellow:oops:
 
Bugger Greg! She was lookin' real purdy too...

I've got Supercheap auto guns, probably the equivalent to the HF guns for you guys I would guess.

They're ok, but that's about it... took a lot of effort and advice from Dale and others to get the pattern and flow right for a reasonable finish. The touch up gun also started falling apart the first time I used it :eek:

I just got my rear guard and tail light bracket re-sprayed by the guys who did the crash repair and I see the huge difference with quality equipment. It looks to be a much thicker finish, no orange peel, top job. I have no doubt their extra skills made a big difference too ;)

When I eventually get my hands on a Katana it will be a restore/rebuild job (no $$$ for a mint one) and hopefully I can get my hands on an Iwata or something by then as I think it will make it much easier to get a good job done.
 
Pete, the image of red paint on you brick work from that gun coming apart is indelibly etched in my mind! :eek:

If you can find an Astro (star) EVO4014 in nice condition and on the cheep, you might want to give that a try instead of spending the money on an Iwata. I have both the LPH400LV and the EVO4014 and I can assure you it's no slouch when it comes to applying paint.

*** silicone and paint... bad juju... ***
 
Well this gun has not fallen apart so it's got to be a step better,right?Admittedly it's a very basic gun but I was VERY happy with the results first time out.I have not touched it in the 2 years since I used it last,not sure if getting a better gun is even worth it for the amount of spraying I do.Just one note to,where the clear is good the paint looks just fantastic,the red really pops and the black subtly sparkles in the sun.Some careful sanding and a reclear it should be good to go
 
Trust me and get one of these for your gun...

10036418_mou_mtn6125_pri_larg.jpg
 
Greg, the suggestion to use a nib file and (or) a razor blade are good ones. I didn't even know nib files existed until now. While researching nib files, it was suggested you take some masking tape and wind a couple of wraps around each end of a single edged razor blade to remove the majority of the run as well. Works just like a little wood plane.

I don't see the gun you are using as being all that bad. It appears to have a 6.5" wide pattern, perfect for smaller pieces. It uses somewhere between 2 and 4 cfm to operate, so unless the pattern is distorted, or uneven, it looks like it will do for it's intended purpose when using a low cfm output compressor.

External mix, non bleeder type as well. As long as it doesn't drip, tune 'er
up on a piece of scrap and start shooting some more clear.
 
You think a box cutter type blade would work?Have a couple around ,bought them to remove oxidation on the KDX tank.Might be to thick now that I'm thinking about it.Looking for razor blades tomorrow.
 
SVSooke said:
You think a box cutter type blade would work?Have a couple around ,bought them to remove oxidation on the KDX tank.Might be to thick now that I'm thinking about it.Looking for razor blades tomorrow.
Click to expand...

danger-will-robinson3.jpeg
 
Greg, good luck! I'm sure with care you'll be successful :D

rustybronco said:
Pete, the image of red paint on you brick work from that gun coming apart is indelibly etched in my mind! :eek:

If you can find an Astro (star) EVO4014 in nice condition and on the cheep, you might want to give that a try instead of spending the money on an Iwata. I have both the LPH400LV and the EVO4014 and I can assure you it's no slouch when it comes to applying paint.

*** silicone and paint... bad juju... ***
Click to expand...

Errrr yeah... there's still some there if you look close :rolleyes:

I'm way away from any of that yet, haven't even got a Kat to work on yet! However I shall keep that in mind too as an alternative to the Iwata, thanks!

Nessism said:
Trust me and get one of these for your gun...

10036418_mou_mtn6125_pri_larg.jpg
Click to expand...

Is that a condensation filter Ed? I used one of those and even though I got told to ensure it was there, I was still surprised at the amount of water that was getting trapped in there...
 
Well I started the sanding of the clear.So much clear was thrown on I started with much coarser paper to knock the real rough stuff stuff down.The runs on the right side of the tank where a problem.Ended up sanding though the red.I will need to redo the red on that side of the tank:mad:Was hoping to take her to a bike show on the 27th but that just isn't going to happen.Smoothed out the upper faring pieces with a bit of rough and then some 400 wet,they tuned out quite nice.
 
Be VERY careful re-spraying the base coat color where you broke through. Put it on dry with a series of thin coats. If you don't, I guarantee it'll lift the edge of the clear where you sanded through it and then you'll have to start over again. It's almost better to leave a bit of the run in there and build the clear up through another series of coats rather then breaking through. Best of luck.
 
With 20/20 hindsight I know what you mean.What's done is done though.Learning from this I'm not trying to get the rest completely flat,just a bunch smoother.That side of the tank had the worst runs,did it first.With more hindsight I probably should have doe it last.
 
Might be less work to completely strip it and start over... I like the results I got on mine with just rattle can laquer and some 2K crystal clear. But then I spent more than a few hours doing prep and wet sanding so I could get a good result. Turned out pretty much flawless... That said, I am still thinking about re-doing it to look more stock if I can find old school tank decals...
 
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