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redstedman
Guest
I replaced my (broken) speedo cable on my ES. I bought a tach cable too but I'll do that over the winter w/ other maint. Then I rode 70 mi in 70 + deg sunshine & stunning fall colors.
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what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
Frank...you do realise the trip meter isnt gonna stay on 1980 unless you have removed the connector gear between it and the odometer.....dont you???
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ptexotik
Guest
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redstedman
Guest
Hell, I don.t know, didn't look at it. I guess I better.
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loud et
Guest
Cleaned and rebuilt the petcock on the 650 I picked up. It was obviously messed with before as the o ring on the shut off shaft was not shrunken or cracked, but rather melted and gummy and stuck in the tapered sealing area. Wrong grade ring. Petcock SEEMS to be funtional , will know soon enough. I had good results with another one I fixed up. Oh yeah, there was no spring in the petcock either! I had a trashed one I scavenged a spring from.
Airbox intake boots were installed all wonky, straitened them up too.
Same bike came to me with 2 intake boots where the rubber came off the metal base plate, just for kicks used a high heat epoxy supposedly appropriate for rubber and glued the rubber back on , then used some high quality , flexible sealant to "top caulk"/ build a gusset around the exterior of the boot to furthre bond it to the metal. I know they will work long enough to get the bike running and see how it runs/shifts.
No long term solution to boot repair, I know, but I would have just been sitting around anyways, figured I would get crafty.
Intake boot test repair:
Hope to get the carbs/tank on in the next few hours and get her to fire tonight.
Airbox intake boots were installed all wonky, straitened them up too.
Same bike came to me with 2 intake boots where the rubber came off the metal base plate, just for kicks used a high heat epoxy supposedly appropriate for rubber and glued the rubber back on , then used some high quality , flexible sealant to "top caulk"/ build a gusset around the exterior of the boot to furthre bond it to the metal. I know they will work long enough to get the bike running and see how it runs/shifts.
No long term solution to boot repair, I know, but I would have just been sitting around anyways, figured I would get crafty.
Intake boot test repair:
Hope to get the carbs/tank on in the next few hours and get her to fire tonight.
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..was rolling around the yard today on the parts bike...battery charges now, both turn signals now work so I will sooner or later have to find a new brake reservoir because this bike has papers and looks to be worth it, now.. ...
....but no way I can keep up with your production, gsrick!-yikes! talk about motivated! and I'm going out to look at my ignition key to see if that tip works! seeing as I want to see if I can get the tachometer to loosen up and read correct revs anyways + a lightbulb for the neutral ...but a couple of successes like that and it'll be quitting time for me!!
... reading your post,gsrick, recalls a picture chilly midnights and the ol' garage with the light on ...my fingers chilled with gas and a fleeting thought about the really old wiring in it-but I know the lightswitches are spark-proofed with cobweb and dirt so no worries...
....but no way I can keep up with your production, gsrick!-yikes! talk about motivated! and I'm going out to look at my ignition key to see if that tip works! seeing as I want to see if I can get the tachometer to loosen up and read correct revs anyways + a lightbulb for the neutral ...but a couple of successes like that and it'll be quitting time for me!!
... reading your post,gsrick, recalls a picture chilly midnights and the ol' garage with the light on ...my fingers chilled with gas and a fleeting thought about the really old wiring in it-but I know the lightswitches are spark-proofed with cobweb and dirt so no worries...
..I wonder if that vinyl dip for toolhandles would work temporary for a cracked carbboot...hmm. PO of my go-to-meeting bike put it on suspect spots of the seat and it is holding flexibly..
Yeah, it was just for the money shot. I'm now in the year 2440... :lol:
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Guest
Guest
For temporary use, it might. Silicone based caulk might also work.
It makes me wonder why rubber is in the system, instead of using aluminum tubes with O-rings on the carb side, like the O-rings on the cylinder side.
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oldrookie
Guest
I purchased a used GS500 master cylinder after a summer of fighting with the stock master on my GR. Just can't get the original to hold pressure properly, so decided to get a newer one on Ebay.
It arrive with a cloudy sight window and it just collapsed when I touched it. Decided the best option was another Ebay purchase--a $15 piece of glass and some instructions on how to install real glass into the sight glass hole.
Put the glass in today. Used Permatix Silicone as per instructions. Letting it sit for 24 hours and then I'll find out whether the fix really worked.
It arrive with a cloudy sight window and it just collapsed when I touched it. Decided the best option was another Ebay purchase--a $15 piece of glass and some instructions on how to install real glass into the sight glass hole.
Put the glass in today. Used Permatix Silicone as per instructions. Letting it sit for 24 hours and then I'll find out whether the fix really worked.
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Toasty
Guest
I have the engine out of the bike and it's 85% disassembled, I'm just debating on how far I want to go...
For sure I'm replacing the bad output shaft and painting the engine, getting the outer covers powder coated wrinkle black, putting in the stainless bolt kit from Z1 and replacing the clutch springs/cam tensioner gasket. I'll be painting the forks and wheels black, but I'm deciding if I want to get the frame powder coated or just touch up the bad areas.
I'm going to be painting my Virago tank and cafe seat Battleship Grey and want to add a brown leather seat and grips. Basically the same scheme as this
Same color paint. If I powdercoat the frame/swingarm should I go gloss black or silver? The engine will be blacked out with a few small stainless and chrome accents, and the wheels will be black too so I would like some contrast. What do you guys think?
For sure I'm replacing the bad output shaft and painting the engine, getting the outer covers powder coated wrinkle black, putting in the stainless bolt kit from Z1 and replacing the clutch springs/cam tensioner gasket. I'll be painting the forks and wheels black, but I'm deciding if I want to get the frame powder coated or just touch up the bad areas.
I'm going to be painting my Virago tank and cafe seat Battleship Grey and want to add a brown leather seat and grips. Basically the same scheme as this
Same color paint. If I powdercoat the frame/swingarm should I go gloss black or silver? The engine will be blacked out with a few small stainless and chrome accents, and the wheels will be black too so I would like some contrast. What do you guys think?
The eldest and I got ready for a nice short ride after school today but didn't even make it out of the driveway when I saw a problem with the right front caliper. First thought it was my forks since I noticed some dampness around the dust cover but finally saw the caliper dripping as I squeezed the lever. After taking it apart, I found the smaller (I have the twinpot calipers) of the two pistons would not move whatsoever when I squeezed the lever.
I'll order new seals and pistons maybe this weekend. I just hope I put it back together correctly this time.
I'll order new seals and pistons maybe this weekend. I just hope I put it back together correctly this time.
"Usually" for a two fold purpose:
1) Cheaper to produce
2) Transfers less heat to the carbs for beter air/fuel ratio
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wally
Guest
Replaced the Buell's back brake pads. Took all of 10 mins and was heaps easier than I anticipated.
Wish I could say the same for the price of the pads...
Wish I could say the same for the price of the pads...
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Guest
Guest
Replaced front brake pads on my 93 Sable wagon. One of the slider pins won't reach specified torque. The pin is fine. I assume that the threads it screws in to are shot. Replacing the casting is more expensive and time consuming than the car is worth. So, no more highway driving for this car. If I get one more winter out of it, I'll be happy.
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jhillier449
Guest
I did a complete top end rebuild on my 80 1000G over the last month. The usual stuff, dismantle, clean, paint, valve stem seals, lap valves, clean and paint cylinder block then hone. The only thing of note is that I removed the jugs and machined both faces in a cnc machine with a fly cutter tool taking about 20 thou off in total, gave me clean and distortion free surfaces to work with. I put it all back together, torqued the head, set the timing, shimmed the valves and put all the bits on. I started it up and took her for a short run, bogging under acceleration, gotta re-sync the carbs and see what happens. It took me about 80 hours to do, as this was my first crack at it. I rebuilt a complete spare top-end and then swapped it out with the old one, now will rebuild those bits over the winter and put in 1100 pistons for my 81 1000L. Compression numbers look decent, 130-140 PSI, should get a bit better once the rings are run in.
By the way, anyone try those 1100 piston kits on ebay for 140.00? Damn good price if they work.
Cheers
John
By the way, anyone try those 1100 piston kits on ebay for 140.00? Damn good price if they work.
Cheers
John
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MAJikMARCer
Guest
Tore down and cleaned up my leaf blower/vac. Found that the piston ring was in three pieces. That and a gummed up carb explain why it wasn't starting. Guessing I need a new fuel filter too. Need to get this thing running before the trees REALLY start dropping leaves. Any tips on how to compress the ring (just the single ring) to get it back into the head?
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Flyboy
Guest
Gave the little e30 a good claying and polish to restore the shine.
Then started to detail the engine compartment, got the valve cover done and.........that was about it.
Lots more to go.
Before
A few hours later
Then started to detail the engine compartment, got the valve cover done and.........that was about it.
Lots more to go.
Before
A few hours later
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Toasty
Guest
Superbike bars put on upside down (and flipped) are actually pretty comfy. Sporty but it should be easier on the back then clubmans. I was looking at some Woodcraft clipons but I think I'm just going to stay with my superbikes.
