Shhhh! don't tell anyone or that colour may catch on with the general populace.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
what did you wrench on today??
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
H
Hovmod
Guest
Hahaha, I know, right?
After *that green*, I can do with a little blending in.
After *that green*, I can do with a little blending in.
P
ptexotik
Guest
installed Motobatt AGM battery in ES. (std acid battery took a dump after 3 yrs / minimal use / consistent battery tender top-ups)
kinda like the bright yellow Motobatt peaking thru underneath ... and excellent cranking!
kinda like the bright yellow Motobatt peaking thru underneath ... and excellent cranking!
Took the Cooley carbs out of the dip and rebuilt them. Put them on the bike and put the gauges on them. Now I can usually eyeball the bench sync pretty close, but this was a stunner!!! I just had to tweek carb 3 ever so slightly and all 4 needles were dead on with each other.
Next was the colortune and set the mixture screws. Sewing machine smooth again.
Next was the colortune and set the mixture screws. Sewing machine smooth again.
M
Meriban
Guest
Installed the carbs
Installed the carbs
Then I rebuilt the master cylinders and made a wire device to hold the clutch cable away from the head...Put the oil pan back on and cleaned the pump screen...I am slowly getting the thing back together.
Installed the carbs
Then I rebuilt the master cylinders and made a wire device to hold the clutch cable away from the head...Put the oil pan back on and cleaned the pump screen...I am slowly getting the thing back together.
G
Guest
Guest
Finally had to rebuild the carb on my 35 year old Montgomery Ward air compressor this last weekend, wouldn't run lol. Runs like a stripped ass ape now.
G
GreatDane
Guest
Youngest daughter and I got the carbs back in and installed new air filter and cleaned up and installed the air box.
Getting closer....
Getting closer....
G
Guest
Guest
About due time
About due time
Well the old 78' 1000 took a back seat to the 80' 1000G this year. It was about due time I showed her some luvin'. Poor thing.
A couple of days later
She's not running well at all but she's back together so that's a start. Mikuni 29mm smoothbores, Marzocchi shocks, Tarozzi rearsets, K&N pods, Lockhart oil cooler with colour matching braided lines, Marving 4 into 1 racing exhaust, super bars, change over from spokes to mags and dual discs up front. The gas tank sprung a pin hole leak and she's running like crap but I'm happy.
About due time
Well the old 78' 1000 took a back seat to the 80' 1000G this year. It was about due time I showed her some luvin'. Poor thing.
A couple of days later
She's not running well at all but she's back together so that's a start. Mikuni 29mm smoothbores, Marzocchi shocks, Tarozzi rearsets, K&N pods, Lockhart oil cooler with colour matching braided lines, Marving 4 into 1 racing exhaust, super bars, change over from spokes to mags and dual discs up front. The gas tank sprung a pin hole leak and she's running like crap but I'm happy.
M
Meriban
Guest
Rebuilt the brakes, master cylinders, and added all new SS brake lines. Finishing cleaning the exhaust today then installing the exhaust, pegs and all control surfaces.
G
Guest
Guest
Drained the oil last night ready to service this weekend. Cam chain tensioner getting a rebuild as well, and also trying to repair the horn and get my throttle cable routing sorted out.
W
wally
Guest
More troubles...
On the way to work Thursday the Uly started acting up.
Exhaust was really loud, backfired a lot and then started misfiring when I slowed down.
It really started sounding like an open pipe Harley...
Turns out the O2 sensor on the rear header had cracked completely off! :-s
Now the bad part...getting to back header involves 1 of 2 processes.
1. Drop motor
2. Drop rear suspension
I went with option 2 and after about 90 mins it was out!
Now to find out if it is fixable...
On the way to work Thursday the Uly started acting up.
Exhaust was really loud, backfired a lot and then started misfiring when I slowed down.
It really started sounding like an open pipe Harley...
Turns out the O2 sensor on the rear header had cracked completely off! :-s
Now the bad part...getting to back header involves 1 of 2 processes.
1. Drop motor
2. Drop rear suspension
I went with option 2 and after about 90 mins it was out!
Now to find out if it is fixable...
It is fixable. But, more likely than not, it crack again after it's been re-welded. Then the question is, just how long it will it take for that to happen.
Last edited:
W
wally
Guest
True! Finding parts in South Africa is difficult enough. Couple that with a really crappy exchange rate...
Taking it to the guy who did the custom exhaust for my project bike to see what his recommendations are.
Taking it to the guy who did the custom exhaust for my project bike to see what his recommendations are.
Wally, if they don't charge you much to weld it and you don't mind removing it again at a later date, welding it would be give you the best of both worlds in my mind. That would allow you to still drive it while giving you the time to find a replacement for it at the best possible price.
It looks like it could be made out of stainless steel. See if a magnet will pull at it fairly strongly. If the magnets pull appears to be weak, it should be made from stainless.
It looks like it could be made out of stainless steel. See if a magnet will pull at it fairly strongly. If the magnets pull appears to be weak, it should be made from stainless.
Last edited:
G
Guest
Guest
What a bugger Wally! Hopefully the solution's not too painful...
I checked the valve clearances, rebuilt the cam chain tensioner, and put the new oil in last night.
Clearances haven't changed since last service.
A tip when doing the tensioner... don't use too much loctite on the nut holding the adjust on, I had to pull it all apart and clean it up again after it didn't seem to want to operate... loctite held the knurled knob in place
This time around I'm going from the Castrol GTX Diesel to Penrite Everyday Fully Synthetic 10w40. Our diesel oil doesn't have the same levels of zinc as ones like the Rotella in the US apparently, but the Penrite has good word of mouth over here from the GS500 guys. Will see how it goes.
Still to sort out the throttle cable routing and clean out under the sprocket cover.
I checked the valve clearances, rebuilt the cam chain tensioner, and put the new oil in last night.
Clearances haven't changed since last service.
A tip when doing the tensioner... don't use too much loctite on the nut holding the adjust on, I had to pull it all apart and clean it up again after it didn't seem to want to operate... loctite held the knurled knob in place
This time around I'm going from the Castrol GTX Diesel to Penrite Everyday Fully Synthetic 10w40. Our diesel oil doesn't have the same levels of zinc as ones like the Rotella in the US apparently, but the Penrite has good word of mouth over here from the GS500 guys. Will see how it goes.
Still to sort out the throttle cable routing and clean out under the sprocket cover.
Put in a new float in the generator I just bought. I didn't want to take a chance of having the carb flood if my repair on the old one ever let go. For five bucks shipped it was worth it to me. I also added an inline fuel shut off and changed the fuel contaminated oil in it to Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic.
I started cleaning up Stan's GS1100GK's exhaust so I could re-hang it tomorrow. With nothing more than a rag, Ford bright metal cleaner applied with the pressure of two fingers she cleaned up extremely well. It did have a small amount of rust where the inner pipe y's off from the main pipe, which I painted over with silver paint, a slight amount of rust on the head pipe from being under the fairing and the usual scuffing from peoples shoes. But it's as solid as a rock. Not in too bad a condition for being almost thirty years old.
Oh yes, the trailers painted black and all wired up as well. Still need to install a new floor.
One thing at a time...
I started cleaning up Stan's GS1100GK's exhaust so I could re-hang it tomorrow. With nothing more than a rag, Ford bright metal cleaner applied with the pressure of two fingers she cleaned up extremely well. It did have a small amount of rust where the inner pipe y's off from the main pipe, which I painted over with silver paint, a slight amount of rust on the head pipe from being under the fairing and the usual scuffing from peoples shoes. But it's as solid as a rock. Not in too bad a condition for being almost thirty years old.
Oh yes, the trailers painted black and all wired up as well. Still need to install a new floor.
One thing at a time...
Last edited:
G
Guest
Guest
They both look good Dale... exhaust and trailer
I cleaned out under the sprocket cover yesterday (ugh) then put it back together, degreased the motor, and took it for a short test ride 'round the long block.
Too soon to tell for sure but no oil anywhere I can see and the tensioner seems to be doing it's job and is in one piece.
I'll know in a couple of weeks I reckon if the synthetic is better than the dyno diesel oil.
I cleaned out under the sprocket cover yesterday (ugh) then put it back together, degreased the motor, and took it for a short test ride 'round the long block.
Too soon to tell for sure but no oil anywhere I can see and the tensioner seems to be doing it's job and is in one piece.
I'll know in a couple of weeks I reckon if the synthetic is better than the dyno diesel oil.
I think you'll find that you like the synthetic oil, as long as your gaskets are in good condition that is. My 850 is starting to drip from the oil pan gasket since using synthetic.
I cleaned up the right side exhaust system this afternoon. It wasn't in as good of a condition as the left side.
The heat shield had two ears broken off. I sure couldn't leave it like that. I clamped it up as best as I could, cleaned off the rust, fired up the old stick welder and set it to 50~55 amps. It came out fairly well considering I was using 3/32" rod. I'll need to pick up some 1/16" the next time I'm at the welding supply for the really thin stuff like this.
Pictures...
They cleaned up well enough....
Pipes 2 and 3 will have to be tomorrows project. The legs are telling me I need to quit for the day.
Last edited:
G
Guest
Guest
Nice work Dale, cleaned up very nicely indeed!
The telltale sign for my weep has been a drip of oil on the bottom cam chain tensioner bolt after a degrease and a test ride... so far after the test ride yesterday then commute to and from work today all is still dry. I may have had success!
ray:
Much thanks to BWringer and his excellent guide of course :clap:
Here's the condition of the O rings and oil seal that came out:
And afterwards, nice and clean:
This is the oil I've used this time around:
Tonight I continued tackling the horn repair... I think now I know how it works, so time to work out why it doesn't work... will update the horn thread shortly.
The telltale sign for my weep has been a drip of oil on the bottom cam chain tensioner bolt after a degrease and a test ride... so far after the test ride yesterday then commute to and from work today all is still dry. I may have had success!
ray:Much thanks to BWringer and his excellent guide of course :clap:
Here's the condition of the O rings and oil seal that came out:
And afterwards, nice and clean:
This is the oil I've used this time around:
Tonight I continued tackling the horn repair... I think now I know how it works, so time to work out why it doesn't work... will update the horn thread shortly.
T
Toasty
Guest
I had to solder some wires and epoxy my turn signal back together at work. I low sided making a sharp u-turn getting gas this morning. I hit some crap in the road, tucked the front wheel on the XT and slid a few feet.
