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what did you wrench on today??

Same here. In order to get an engine up onto the bench to strip it in some degree of comfort, I've been thinking about making a hoist or engine crane.
 
Finally finished the valve adjustment on the 1100G and buttoned her up. Hooked up the pony tank, hit the start button and vroom, was off choke in about 30 seconds and idling at 1000. Get to sync her again and run another compression test just for fun, then a road test.

V
 
Finished off the Yam > GS indicator bar switch and actually got the whole kit working, with self-cancelling going, as far as I know. Too wet to take it out right now to properly test it. Just in case, I've ordered the bits in for the eventual demise of the main control unit.
 
I've been spoiled by my shaft drive 1100G, but now I had to relearn about drive chain maintenance, for my 750.
I used some Kawi sport bike lube a few years ago, but it was so invisible I went to using gear oil.
Gear oil splatters all over the back wheel, then the spots collect dirt, real shabby looking.
Now I'm back to chain oil, just cleaned the chain with kerosine then sprayed it.
Looks good, lots of clean steel shows, and I got it at the min. slack.
 
Did some old fashioned timing and setting of points, on my CT90 today. Used the voltmeter to set timing, really easy.
Bike runs pretty good now.

V
 
I got around to doing the clutch on 750EF. There wasn't much really wrong with it other than a minor slipping if I pounded a high rpm 3 - 4 shift but figured better do it now rather than later. Anyway changed the fiction plates and springs, got it at all back together and setting over night for the gasket to set. I found that by sticking a 1" board under the tires with the bike on the side stand I didn't loose any oil when I popped the cover. It had an oil change only 500km ago so I was being frugal. Lucky too, the engine side of the gasket came off clean and only had to fight with the 30 year old gasket on the cover. These 750s are nice to work on, takes about a minute to get both sides of the fairing off and then only the clutch cover and clutch pushrod adjustment cover to remove.
 
Final sync and Bluetune adjustment, fresh oil and filter and took the 1100G out for a short blast. A couple more 200+ mile trips in the future before the PNW rally.

V
 
The RH rear indicator bulb died of fright when it was fed a proper voltage after the other day's work in the signalling equipment, so sorted that. Also tightened the steering stem a touch. The bearings are slightly notched, but they're up for replacement soon when I pull the front off.
 
Finally got to get back to work on GS850, the mission is replace the missing engine case bolts the so called "mechanic" left out. Four bolts altogether, from underneath. Which also meant removing the headers, and the sump to get to one bolt on the right hand side. (Looking towards the front of the bike).
I've finally got gears after fiddling with the selectors fingers behind the clutch, but the actual clutch is too stiff. I'll see what happens after a road test and see if I can get it adjusted to what I want..
These photos are taken from under the bike with the Iphone to show one of the missing bolts,, which entailed dismantling half the bike.

View from underneath, can anybody tell me what the "dent" in the frame is for?

Close up
 
Been a really busy last two days. The parts finally arrived for GS1000 after the normal 2 to 3 weeks delivery. New starter clutch plus everything needed to seal any possible oil leaks up. I rebuilt the cam chain tensioner, new oil pressure switch seals, new tachometer drive seals and new stator cover gasket while doing the replacement of the starter clutch. Everything all back together:
0bQU4u.jpg


Replaced the front A/C on top of the motorhome:
Old:
Irlri9.jpg

New:
eeLQlC.jpg


Rescued a litter of feral kittens from under the deck of my boat. Measured over 96 degrees F under there so we had no choice:
NNzzhb.jpg


They're only about 3 to 4 weeks old so the wife and I are going to be a little busy feeding them until we can find new homes.

I'm pooped! Ready for a beer and some rest.
 
Cute kittens!
I saw a police radar speedo sign on the side of the road near me, so rode by to check my speedo.
Woh! my speedo reads 55 but the radar sign said I was only going 52!!!
No wonder everybody was passing me on the highway!
So I calculate a 5.7% difference. Good to know, now I can compensate.
 
sinkankan said:
View from underneath, can anybody tell me what the "dent" in the frame is for?
Click to expand...
Both of mine have that, and it looks to me as if they're markers for the positioning of a RH kickstand. I've never seen or heard of one, nor know if one was available from Suzuki. Otoh, they might be stress relievers for the frame - or a resonance damper, to change the tubing characteristics enough to avoid cracking somewhere along it.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
Yeah, and how come there's an extra bolt hole in the oil pan that ain't used?
We wanna k'now.
Click to expand...
That photo was taken just before I took the sump off to install a casing bolt the previous "mechanic" had missed. It's not a bolt hole just a lug in the sump casing. Maybe to hold the motor up when they build them.
 
sinkankan said:
That photo was taken just before I took the sump off to install a casing bolt the previous "mechanic" had missed. It's not a bolt hole just a lug in the sump casing. Maybe to hold the motor up when they build them.
Click to expand...

And maybe that's all the crimp in the frame is too; somewhere to grip it on the assembly line. The kickstand lug would do that on the other side.
 
Grimly said:
And maybe that's all the crimp in the frame is too; somewhere to grip it on the assembly line. The kickstand lug would do that on the other side.
Click to expand...
I've had people suggest it was for the original exhaust clearance, but I replied why isn't it on the other side as well. I feel it would apply with your suggestion, why didn't the 750 and 1100's have it as well?
 
sinkankan said:
I've had people suggest it was for the original exhaust clearance, but I replied why isn't it on the other side as well. I feel it would apply with your suggestion, why didn't the 750 and 1100's have it as well?
Click to expand...
Not having one handy I can't say for sure, but maybe their frames have enough clearance on the RH side for a conventional clamp.
 
Buffalo Bill said:
I've been spoiled by my shaft drive 1100G, but now I had to relearn about drive chain maintenance, for my 750.
I used some Kawi sport bike lube a few years ago, but it was so invisible I went to using gear oil.
Gear oil splatters all over the back wheel, then the spots collect dirt, real shabby looking.
Now I'm back to chain oil, just cleaned the chain with kerosine then sprayed it.
Looks good, lots of clean steel shows, and I got it at the min. slack.
Click to expand...

I also went from shaft back to chain. Based on Web Bike World recommendations, I'm trying DuPont chain cleaning and lubrication products. They sell small cans of the lubricant that are the right size for trips. Only time will tell. Chain lubrication seems a little bit like religion. What we pick is based on faith as much as on reason. And whatever the decision, it seems to work out in the end.
 
Grimly said:
And maybe that's all the crimp in the frame is too; somewhere to grip it on the assembly line. The kickstand lug would do that on the other side.
Click to expand...
Your reasoning is plausible, but who knows how many revisions happened during design development. Plus manufacturing assembly is anther branch of engineering with revisions too.


 
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