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what did you wrench on today??

Last week my stator output was 65, 59, and 44 volts across the three legs and voltage at the battery was 12.3 all at 4k rpm's.

Just installed a new Caltric stator and revving it to 4k the readings are across the three legs, a consistent 80 volts, with the battery charging at 13.5.

Now I'm camping happily!
 
Wednesday wrenched till 1am on 04 gixxer replacing the head gasket, after freeze plug incident.
Left the rear bottom engine bolt in and just lowered it out the perimeter frame to access the head.
worked out nicely and made it much easier to pivot the engine back into place.
 
A B&S 8 HP tiller motor. With a friend. He got a cheap coil on amazon and said it just up and quit. So pull the shroud off and lo the condenser wire had been sheared off by the flywheel. Easy fix right? New connector continuity. Spark tester to block flashes when you crank but a plug will not spark. So the resistance on the coil is some oddball 1.687 kohms Oem spec says 2.5 to 5 which is an oddly wide operating range but no matter. Buddy refuses to suspect his coil. SO its off to the Princess Auto to buy a points plug condenser kit that is at least as sketchy as the aftermarket chinese coil.

Assembled correctly gapped same symptoms. Buddy insists not the coil. Magnet seemed fine and he even got a mild shock from the condenser hand spinning the engine. Naw it aint my precious coil no way man.

The only thing I can think of beyond the coils is the condenser wire insulation leaking to ground. To this end I ask as it is nowhere published what is the gauge of this lovely solid core copper wire.

Also why wont he consider the coil as bad with its wonky resistance reading and the fact that the ignition bits are all new albeit Chinese and sketchy. Would a kick in the nuts help him?
 
Cipher said:
A B&S 8 HP tiller motor. With a friend. He got a cheap coil on amazon and said it just up and quit. So pull the shroud off and lo the condenser wire had been sheared off by the flywheel. Easy fix right? New connector continuity. Spark tester to block flashes when you crank but a plug will not spark. So the resistance on the coil is some oddball 1.687 kohms Oem spec says 2.5 to 5 which is an oddly wide operating range but no matter. Buddy refuses to suspect his coil. SO its off to the Princess Auto to buy a points plug condenser kit that is at least as sketchy as the aftermarket chinese coil.

Assembled correctly gapped same symptoms. Buddy insists not the coil. Magnet seemed fine and he even got a mild shock from the condenser hand spinning the engine. Naw it aint my precious coil no way man.

The only thing I can think of beyond the coils is the condenser wire insulation leaking to ground. To this end I ask as it is nowhere published what is the gauge of this lovely solid core copper wire.

Also why wont he consider the coil as bad with its wonky resistance reading and the fact that the ignition bits are all new albeit Chinese and sketchy. Would a kick in the nuts help him?
Click to expand...

Sadly, no, it probably won't have the desired effect...
I recently went through the 8hp B & S shi#fight myself. Mower engine died. Had what I thought was a good electric start spare needing a valve grind so pulled that one down...large piece of the exhaust valve seat missing.
Right, another engine with unknown history had come with the mower. Pull that down. Exhaust valve seat ring was nearly right out of the block...
OK, pull down the original engine. Valve seats OK. Continue, replacing rings and using the best bits of all three engines. Finished, looks good. won't start. Carburation issues.
Had enough. Sold it. Bought another mower - which doesn't use a B & S engine....
 
Working on, tweaking my track bike. Half an hour just to take the side fairings off, same to put them back on!!!
That's because they cover the whole side, so the mirrors, signal lights and windshield have to come off too. I'd like to cut a new seam to fix that, but I choke.
Had it all off Friday, to raise the needles one click for mo-betta mid range. Took a reducer out of each slide too, for quicker acc. (Dynojet thing)
Put it all back together for a test ride and no reaction from the solenoid????? WTF!!!
Trouble shot that system and discovered a connector parted under the tank.
Back together again this morning, plus raised the front end 3mm.
Test ride and yeah mo-betta midrange, did 40 to 100mph in 1/8 mile, that's like a short straight before the next turn on a track…ideal.
This bike is way too fast for a relaxing ride on country roads, I got my GS1100G for that, and I still gotta suppress my inner hooligan.
 
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I decided, since the carbs are out of the FZ1, to check condition of plugs. Dang! Had to remove the radiator to get to them. Weren't hat bad but will change anyway.
 
1150RT has sat untouched for 4 weeks (has stopped dripping gear lube).

GK has sat untouched for 2 weeks.

THis afternoon I Got batterytenders on both.
Wiped most of the road grime off the GK pipes.

Did not hurt myself too much doing that (other than wife crabbing at me).

8JtmSb7.jpg


oh, other thing i "wrenched on" today: shaving the left side of my face with right hand, i excavated a slice of skin off my chin.
 
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Got most of an 1150 gearbox undercut today. Still one gear off the layshaft away having damaged dogs welded.
It's had a hard life - several gears have had the dogs repaired previously. Still enough meat there to do a nice undercut job.
I usually get asked to do roadrace boxes - which last pretty well. This is a dragbike.
Any of the dragrace fraternity able to tell me how often they do gearboxes ?
 
Put some synthetic 75w/90 gear oil in the front and rear bevel drives. Probably didn't need to, as I'd dosed the trans with moly 20 years ago, but thought it might be time to replace the oil.
That synthetic ain't half thin stuff - quite watery compared to normal 80 or 90 gear oil. I suppose, like in the engine oil realm, I have to trust to the higher film strength and all that good stuff. It occurred to me that the thinner oil will create less drag in the transmission...
It's hard to say that I felt a difference when taking off up the road, as I'm still sort of breaking it in and not giving it beans yet, but it seemed to me to be slightly (for very small values of slightly) more easy to move under throttle, so meh (shrug).
 
Grimly said:
Put some synthetic 75w/90 gear oil in the front and rear bevel drives. Probably didn't need to, as I'd dosed the trans with moly 20 years ago, but thought it might be time to replace the oil.
That synthetic ain't half thin stuff - quite watery compared to normal 80 or 90 gear oil. I suppose, like in the engine oil realm, I have to trust to the higher film strength and all that good stuff. It occurred to me that the thinner oil will create less drag in the transmission...
It's hard to say that I felt a difference when taking off up the road, as I'm still sort of breaking it in and not giving it beans yet, but it seemed to me to be slightly (for very small values of slightly) more easy to move under throttle, so meh (shrug).
Click to expand...

Modern gear oils can be strange things. My ex business partner was into Mazda 323 4WD turbos at one point. He was aware they were getting a bad rep for doing the center diffs. Asked around his friends in the local rally scene and was told "use this". It was I think from memory a full synthetic Castrol product - not marketed as suitable for diffs. He was very dubious about putting it in as it ran like water...
Both his turbos lasted very well indeed with this stuff in them. No center diff problems at all.
 
Ordered suspension bits for the Sportster yesterday. Slightly longer, heavy duty rear shocks, monotube kit for the front.
 
Started the first service on the Kat yesterday, 1071 kms done already, the go fast!
 
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