what did you wrench on today??

[Guest]

Finished shaping the seat foam as much as I can, will get the upholsterers to do the little bits of tidy up required.

Also got the Dynatek static timing done.

And the non-wrenching stuff... ordered tyres and made sure the upholsterers are right for me to drop the seat up on Thursday...

 

[rustybronco]

I finally found the time to check the wiring on my future daughter-in-law's Chrysler Intrepid.

the wire from the ASD (auto shut down) relay to the alternator field checked out and the same with the wire from the alternator to #8 pin on the PCM. I have voltage coming out of the ASD to the field for a second/ second and a half without the engine running. so the relay checks okay. It's definitely a PCM driver transistor issue. I'll be converting it over to an external voltage regulator in the next few days or so if my schedule permits.

also, I started cleaning up and played around with the 'well' used Iwata LPH400-LV4* I had just bought. expect to see the effects of it 'hopefully soon' in an upcoming thread update.

*Pete, this ones your's to figure out...

 

[GS ace]

I finally removed all of the funk from the fork lowers of the 1000G I'm working on. They looked like they were diseased. It also looked like whoever replaced the fork seals were pretty rough on them.

 

[Guest]

I finally found the time to check the wiring on my future daughter-in-law's Chrysler Intrepid.

the wire from the ASD (auto shut down) relay to the alternator field checked out and the same with the wire from the alternator to #8 pin on the PCM. I have voltage coming out of the ASD to the field for a second/ second and a half without the engine running. so the relay checks okay. It's definitely a PCM driver transistor issue. I'll be converting it over to an external voltage regulator in the next few days or so if my schedule permits.

also, I started cleaning up and played around with the 'well' used Iwata LPH400-LV4* I had just bought. expect to see the effects of it 'hopefully soon' in an upcoming thread update.

*Pete, this ones your's to figure out...

Future daughter-in-law hey? Does she know she's going to be proposed to?

And wow that's an expensive gun! Looks like a good 'un though Being well used I bet you got a deal...

 

[tlg1100]

Couldn't resist!

 

[Guest]

Hahhaha nice one! Bizarre but fun...

Forgot to say what I did last night, although nothing ground breaking...

Gave the seat a final once over for its trip to the upholsterer today, got JB Weld around the filler neck as per Larry's excellent advice, and got my fuel and vacuum hoses cut to length ready to install... oh and my piece of smoked clear acrylic perspex arrived yesterday... for an undisclosed at present purpose...

 

[rustybronco]

Future daughter-in-law hey? Does she know she's going to be proposed to?

And wow that's an expensive gun! Looks like a good 'un though Being well used I bet you got a deal...

Naaaa... just went out into the field and picked one out...

We have sheep's here also...


Pete, not a great deal, just an okay kind of deal. it was $185 shipped.

worse comes to worse, I can use it on the Skunk then shoot the 300M in the spring and re-sell it when I'm done. but, I really doubt I'll want to sell it

 

[niclpnut]

Picket up a 78 750 supersport for a couple hundred bucks. Came with 2 engines. One with a spun rod bearing and the other with seized pistons.

Opening up the one with the seized pistons. Had a puddle of water in #4.

Ditching the points and getting a dyna S. Thinking about an 836 overbore kit if both cylinders can't be honed out. Top ends just need to be cleaned up...valves lapped and new stem seals.

Nic

 

[7981GS]

You might ask this Ebay seller if he has a kit for your year motor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-77-HONDA...cles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1100wt_1165

Daniel

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

...or check with Ken at Cycle-X
http://www.cyclexchange.net/Engine%20Parts%20Page.htm

 

[Normk]

Was in the garage for the whole afternoon working out the problem with a 250 Honda Rebel. It was a hard start when cold from the time the lady bought it. If she pumped the throttle several times, the accelerator pump would richen it up enough to start but it required several restarts before she could keep it going. After it was warmed up, all was well.

If she used the choke, the engine would not start when cold, even after it had been running for a time. Using the choke when warmed up it would sometimes start.

After a lot of cleaning passages and inserting wires and carb. cleaner in order to identify passages, it seemed obvious that the 1/8" hole into the side of the enrichener jet passage was the problem. That hole was large enough that I could not see how there would be sufficient low pressure created above that point to lift fuel, emulsify and deliver out the enrichener discharge port.

I made a screw to fit the hole, inserted, reinstalled the carb. mad, miserable job, and it starts on a touch of the button.:dancing:

They ordered an aftermarket H4 headlight assembly with bucket to replace the original unit having a 35 Watt Stanley bulb inside a "sealed beam". The light was poorer than my AA battery LED pocket flashlight but with a 35 Watt (60 Watt H4 QI bulb equivalent) HID the light is fantastic. She may not like it though as it lacks that orange, sitting by 13th Century monk's candle charm.

The bike will now start when cold, lights up the road, so now to add some additional LED lights to improve visibility and she can take it home. As long as it doesn't snow as it has been threatening to do again.

The main reason for the HID is power consumption as the HID uses 35 Watts as did the original headlight. I didn't want to push the little charging system enough to try to run a 55/60 Watt H4 bulb as was hoping to have enough capacity left to run some additional LED lights so the bike can be seen at night.

Also made an addional breather for the MG's rocker cover as they suffer from having only a 3/8" breather hose.

Next resealing the MG's differential carrier and then making up a suction pump to connect to the crankcase of my ST1100. I'm interested in trying low crankcase pressure to see if it has a noticeable benefit. This is common practice on race cars and old English twins so being retired.....

 

[Normk]

Depending on the condition of the crankshaft, you may be able to salvage it by building up with hard chrome. I bought a year old 550 Yamaha Vision some years ago which had been run out of oil because the low IQ who owned it didn't fix a leaky drain plug gasket or check oil.

It destroyed the big end of one connecting rod, hammered the throw (common throw on the V twin) and spun the bearing in the other rod. I had the salvageable rod resized, ground the crank undersize to clean up the throw (no U.S. bearings available). A local hydraulic cylinder shop build the throw up with hard chrome and then ground the throw to standard.

All the "experts" told me it would not work and I guess they're right but it was still going 10 years later when I lost track of it.

No idea why people who should know that they don't know, don't know that they don't know and so won't say that they don't know. Do you know?

Good luck with that project. It looks like it will be interesting. Please keep us updated!

Picket up a 78 750 supersport for a couple hundred bucks. Came with 2 engines. One with a spun rod bearing and the other with seized pistons.

Opening up the one with the seized pistons. Had a puddle of water in #4.

Ditching the points and getting a dyna S. Thinking about an 836 overbore kit if both cylinders can't be honed out. Top ends just need to be cleaned up...valves lapped and new stem seals.

Nic

 

[Steve]

The main reason for the HID is power consumption as the HID uses 35 Watts as did the original headlight. I didn't want to push the little charging system enough to try to run a 55/60 Watt H4 bulb as was hoping to have enough capacity left to run some additional LED lights so the bike can be seen at night.

Good work on the HID, just make sure it has steady power once fired up. HIDs don't like to be started, then shut down during starting, the firing right back up once the bike is running.

Not that it would help your situation any, but just something to stick in the trivia bank: Honda has a 45/45 watt H4-style bulb that is used in many of their bikes, including the GoldWing. The locator tabs are just a bit different, so they don't drop right in to a standard housing, but if you are looking for slightly less draw than a 55 watt bulb, it might be an option.

.

 

[niclpnut]

You might ask this Ebay seller if he has a kit for your year motor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-77-HONDA...cles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_1100wt_1165

Daniel

Yup, saw that too. Contacted the seller and unfortunately they do not offer a kit for the 77-78 super sport. Haven't talked with Ken yet.

Waiting on the arrival of my new 64mm flex hone to see if I can clean up one of the two pair of jugs I have.

Pick of the #4 cylinder with the water:

Picture looks worse than it actually is, but is still not smooth by any stretch of the imagination. The other jugs look good, with some vertical scoring, no rust, or excessive wear. Just hoping I can be within clearance tolerance after a good hone.

Pistons have just a light surface rust that mostly washed off with some PB blaster:

Head bare, with valves pulled. Shot of #4 chamber:

Really not all that bad. Once I get it into my aluminum hot dip tank, it should clean up well. Guides look smooth inside. Seats may need to be recut, but will see if after cleaning whether or not the valves will lap in.

Crank moves nice and smooth. No evidence of water in the bottom end when I drained the residual oil. Made sure to suck out all the old gunk with my wet/dry vac before I removed the head and the cylinders:

Standard bore Ring set on ebay for about $80 shipped (hopefully no one bids on them )

I helped get a 74 750K going for a friend, and he has donated his gasket set for my project so I saved a good chunk of change there.


And the rest of the bike. All the side covers, pipe, seat etc are off the bike. Paint is ruff, but has all the emblems intact:

Nic

 

[Normk]

The 45/45 with leg spacing slightly wider on the lower legs is stock for ST1100 in Canada & USA, I have several in my parts boxes (ST uses two bulbs). The CBR400 has two bulbs of the same configuration but 60 or 65 Watt high and 45 Watt low. I have converted several ST1100's and some other bikes from Honda bulbs to H4 for higher output and easier availability.

Thanks for the info. because it would have been good to know if I wasn't already aware. It may benefit someone's project.

I'm of the same view regarding starting/restarting HID but I see them frequently operated without any precautions. Perhaps someone can offer some hard information as to what are the effects or whether this is simply a myth?

It's difficult to imagine that the bulb would be affected but worry about the "ballast & transformer" units. Hoping no one takes my view as to the bulb's risk as having any basis.....just a guess going by zenon flash tubes and such which likely has nothing to do with HID.

Guess it's time to drop in to talk with a friend who knows the commercial lighting side of this subject to see what he says. If I learn anything substantive I will report back.

In the mean time, I'm sharing Steve's views.

Good work on the HID, just make sure it has steady power once fired up. HIDs don't like to be started, then shut down during starting, the firing right back up once the bike is running.

Not that it would help your situation any, but just something to stick in the trivia bank: Honda has a 45/45 watt H4-style bulb that is used in many of their bikes, including the GoldWing. The locator tabs are just a bit different, so they don't drop right in to a standard housing, but if you are looking for slightly less draw than a 55 watt bulb, it might be an option.

.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

No idea why people who should know that they don't know, don't know that they don't know and so won't say that they don't know. Do you know?

Pure gold right there folks!!!

 

[Guest]

Naaaa... just went out into the field and picked one out...

We have sheep's here also...


Pete, not a great deal, just an okay kind of deal. it was $185 shipped.

worse comes to worse, I can use it on the Skunk then shoot the 300M in the spring and re-sell it when I'm done. but, I really doubt I'll want to sell it

Aaaah the old caveman grab by the hair and you'll do trick hey? Hahaha

Sounds like a reasonably good deal given the prices I saw during my quick Google this morning :O

With a quality gun like that I'm guess a good clean and lube will have it back to almost new condition in no time...

 

[Guest]

Seat at the upholsterer, and got the wheels off ready to take to get new tyres on Saturday. Started trying to get the wheel bearings off, that's gonna be fun... and bought some oil, chain lube, and brake fluid.

 

[7981GS]

I can't wait to see the finished product. (Same as yourself no doubt.)

Daniel

 

[Guest]

I can't wait to see the finished product. (Same as yourself no doubt.)

Daniel

Oh indeed, it's been torture already and it won't be done 'til early next week...