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What gage wire for harness?

willie

willie

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Its looking like my next major project will be to replace the harness on my GT750. I'd like to improve upon it, if possible, rather than using an NOS replacement. With this in mind, can someone tell me what gage wire I'll need and a where I can buy wire in small amounts that has tracers? I'm hoping to find prices lower than Z1 (ie. $5.78 for 13 ft).
Thanks in advance,
Willie
 
Thanks Ed. To me, it looked like the majority of the wires were the same gage. Another thought that comes to mine is to use what I seem to recall was referred to as ribbon wire. Each wire was a different color and, being stuck together as a ribbon, it'd make tracing circuits alot easier and look neater. My concern though was the gage of the wire used in the ribbon wires I saw probably was insufficient. Anyone have more definitive info on this?
Willie
 
Where I work (aerospace industry) we use some really killer teflon coated wire with much thinner insulation than the crappy stuff Suzuki used. Thin is good when it comes to the harness since it's easier to route.

I think most of the GS circuits use a pretty thin wire (about 18 gauge) but some of the power wires are thicker (16 gauge is my guess). Honestly, I'm just guessing so please measure to be sure.
 
I've dealt with teflon jacketed wire a LONG time ago and really liked it. Any idea where I can get some without having to buy spools of each color?
Willie
 
Ed is correct in that the bulk of the wiring is 18 gauge, including the stator wires. I found a few 20 gauge wires, but they are the exception. When I did my wiring mods I used 16 gauge wires just because I could, but I suspect fresh 18 gauge wires would be fine.
I went to a Napa warehouse store and purchased lots of wire spools. The price was reasonable and they had lots of colours, but nothing with stripes like the factory wires.
 
I found a guy selling 5-packs of 10' lengths of various colors of silver coated 18 gauge teflon coated wire. That oughta work. Next up is to research a small fuse block to replace the single main fuse the Buffalo relied on.
Thanks.
 
I use the Blue Sea 5028. It is fairly large but well made, has a cover and storage for spare blade fuses. The Eastern Beaver is also a nice piece. It uses the mini-blade fuses. The only thing I did not care for was the cover. It must be removed for visual inspection of the fuses.
 
Just curious (maybe ignorant). Is there a downside to using a heavier gauge wire than original. Other than make being less flexible, will it make any difference in function? Wrong resistance or something?
 
1948man said:
Just curious (maybe ignorant). Is there a downside to using a heavier gauge wire than original. Other than make being less flexible, will it make any difference in function? Wrong resistance or something?
Click to expand...

There is no benefit to using oversize wire, but it won't hurt anything other than maybe getting pinched somewhere since it's hard to package.

Teflon covered wire of the appropriate gauge will make a killer harness. It will be smaller diameter than the stock wires, and be more durable at the same time.
 
I'll be ordering the Teflon coated 18 gauge wire this week. Thanks KK for the Blue Sea fuse block tip. I think I'm going to try and find a smaller and less expensive unit because I don't have much in the way of space, circuits or money. I'll have to post a before and after pic of the wiring mess under the sidecover. I'm sure all will find it entertaining.
Willie
 
I got lots of wire cheap from an auto junkyard. When I rewired a car I pulled piles of wire from 4 or 5 cars and had all the colors and lengths I needed.
 
If money is a deciding factor, consider Harbor Freight's trailer light kits. They go on sale for $9.99 and include 20 feet of 4 connector wires. You could toss the lights themselves and still come out ahead.
 
Funny you should mention the trailer wires as that thought had crossed my mind as well. Problem being it'd only provide 4 or 5 colors. Can't beat the price though. Duaneage's idea is a good one too. In fact, I pulled a wiring harness from a hi hp outboard awhile back and have considered using some of those wires. Plenty of colors too. No denying that Teflon would be kewl though.
Now about connectors..... multi-pin would require I get a proper crimping tool and plugs and pins add up pretty quick. Sux having limited funds. At least it doesn't cost anything to dream.
Willie
 
Radio Shack sells molex connectors and pins that work on our bike. Some connectors are simply bullets. Others can be soldered onto the old connector. As you've probably ascertained it's easier to find a better harness from a parted bike, some harnesses are still available new for around 100 bucks.

I would not go about rewiring it. I would replace instead. The car I did was an early 60s Ford and it was very simple. I think there were 20 wires total I ran.
 
duaneage said:
Radio Shack sells molex connectors and pins that work on our bike. As you've probably ascertained it's easier to find a better harness from a parted bike, I would not go about rewiring it. I would replace instead. .
Click to expand...
I value your opinion and suggestions very highly and I've considered getting a used harness. I decided against it though for 2 reasons. Y replace a 40yr old harness with a 40 yr old harness? The other being that I'm hoping by rewiring it myself that I can improve upon it (new wires and connectors) and possibly streamline it. I'm probably dreaming but it seems like it could be done better with fewer wires and connectors. Also, the OEM set up doesn't have a fuseblock, just one main fuse. I know I can improve upon that. Your thoughts and those of others are appreciated.
Willie
 
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