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What in the world is going on w/ my ignition system?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pendulum
  • Start date Start date
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Pendulum

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Monday morning my bike completely crapped out on me. I lost all power. I pulled over, realized it was electrical, and pulled my side cover. I noticed that 2 fuses had slipped outta their holders, and my main toggle switch (playing the role of ignition) was cooked.

I jumped the terminals, reinstalled the fuses, and nothing...

It cranks, but the coils don't fire. No spark on all 4 plugs. I have power coming to the fuses, leaving the fuses and power going to the Dyna III module...

I'm at a loss. It seems like the fuses popped out and killed my ignition system. Any ideas? I know a blade style fuse box is on the list of crap to do...
 
What voltage is the battery at when first turned on? Cranking?

What voltage is at the coils when cranking?
 
cowboyup3371 said:
What voltage is the battery at when first turned on? Cranking?

What voltage is at the coils when cranking?
Click to expand...

My DMM battery was dead, so I've been using a test light to check. I'll check voltages and report back tonight.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
What voltage is the battery at when first turned on? Cranking?

What voltage is at the coils when cranking?
Click to expand...

I've tried cranking this thing probably a dozen n a half times, so the battery is low... 12.71 when first turned on, drops to 9.7 after about 5 seconds of cranking. That's at the battery. Testing voltage at coils next.

OldVet66 said:
What was the rating on your toggle switch?
Click to expand...

20 amps.

I just followed the directions from Dynatek to test my ignition module, and got no spark anywhere. So now I'm down to either ignition module or coils. Thanks to BassCliff I've got a general idea on how to test my coils so after this beer, I'll do that.
 
As your voltage goes down, the amperage goes up, so maybe you were pulling a lot more than 25 amps across that switch. I know on some bikes if you try to start it with a low battery it welds the solenoid contacts.
 
Ok, final update for tonight. The 1/4 coil showed 3.8Ohms on the primary, 128kOhms on the secondary. The 2/3 showed 3.5 on the primary, nada on the secondary.

I'm thinking about spending tomorrow hunting down a new control module and 2 new coils locally so I don't have to sit home all weekend. If not, I'll order them and wait :(
 
OldVet66 said:
As your voltage goes down, the amperage goes up, so maybe you were pulling a lot more than 25 amps across that switch. I know on some bikes if you try to start it with a low battery it welds the solenoid contacts.
Click to expand...

uh oh. Solenoid as in starter solenoid? My starter still whirs up just fine, but good to know that.
 
If the battery is dropping that far down while cranking you aren't having much juice getting out. Go get the battery load tested before going any further.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
If the battery is dropping that far down while cranking you aren't having much juice getting out. Go get the battery load tested before going any further.
Click to expand...

Did that, and the tester wouldn't even register that the battery was hooked up! Got a new battery, still no spark. Still looks like 1 bad coil and a bad Dyna III module. Still planning on replacing both coils, and the Dyna III.

I noticed that both the positive and negative battery terminal hardware, as well as the eyelets on the wires, were black. Looked like soot from fire, but didn't rub off.

I'm still leaning towards the idea that when those fuses popped out of their holders, it let the charging system go full-bore and cooked all this electrical stuff. I very well could be wrong, but that seems like a logical explanation to me.

Does anyone know if the plate from the Dyna III will work with other Dyna systems, (Dyna S particularly)? I called Dynatek 1st thing Friday morning (literally called at 8:59; they open at 9) and sat on hold for 45 minutes before I finally just gave up. I even left a message with the operators voicemail and got no call back. Typical.
 
Another update...

I replaced the battery, to no avail. I finally got someone on the phone @ Dynatek and the Dyna S is not compatible w/ the Dyna III so I have to buy a whole new ignition system. Bummer... But the up side is that if I send my old Dyna III back, they'll sell me a brand new Dyna S at a great price.

I'm tearing the Dyna III off and sending it out in the AM.
 
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