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What is acceptable oil consumption --- 81' GS850G

  • Thread starter Thread starter Scout
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Scout

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I check and top off , if necessary, the oil each time I go on any ride of significance. I have been keeping detailed record and I am using about 1 qt per 1,000 miles. Sometimes I get just the slightest puff of smoke on startup, the compression on 3 cylinders is very good and the 4 was about 10 % less, I wrote it all down but don't have numbers in front of me, all were within acceptable tolerances. Minimal leakage on the engine, nothing ever on the ground. Retorqued the head about 2 months ago and it seems to eliminated any slight weeping I had in the base gasket area. If I were to clean the engine now I would expect it to stay oil free.

Hows 1 qt per 1,000 look to you guys? What do the experienced Suzuki GS guys say about this or what is your experiences in this area
 
1 quart / 1000 miles doesn't warrant a repair, but it's not typical for a GS until the bike has covered 75k+ miles.

A puff of blue smoke on start up suggests valve stem seals. More significant oil burning is typically due to the rings.
 
Used to be that 1L / 1qt per 1000mls was acceptable enough for manufacturers - in that, they wouldn't entertain warranty claims if the consumption was around that figure. Things haven't changed much, in that regard.
Otoh, engines vary in design and success of break-in, and I'd live with an engine that did that consumption without thinking twice about it, although I'd generally look for lower consumption than that from a Suzuki engine that was in good order. I'd only be bothered to strip and re-ring (or whatever was needed) if the consumption rose to around 400 miles per L (qt), which mine is getting close to.
 
Mine seemed to be burning a bit and I took it for a long hard run and it seems way better now.
 
I've rode bikes where it's worse than that, needed valve seals and rings. Just make sure you keep a litre with you and there's nothing to worry about.
 
2.8 litres every 3000 miles. No. Wait that's the other number.
Funny Dave should mention 1 litre / 400 miles. That's exactly what I used on a round trip to Waterville last Summer. Sneaky half moons.
As others have said I wouldn't sweat a litre per 1000 miles. It's close to a total loss system. I would expect to live around half of that with most of the main leaks attended to on a thirty year old air-cooled motor..
 
That consumption does not surprise me and is about what my 850 uses with 52,000 + miles. It all depends on how hard I ride it and how "hot" it is outside.

V
 
1QT / 1000 miles is acceptable consumption - but you know how some perfectionists are - Way back when the oil is used to help seal / lubricate / and cool... lots for 1 fluid to do - eh?

you probably still have the stock cast pistons which have a oil scraper ring that doesn't get it all cleared away for the second ring - you can't see the smoke but it is such a small amount no'fret. it's ok. the tolerances - heat expansion all that ... easy enough to keep a QT handy.

the puff at start up is the guide seals and the comp test can't tell you that.

a guy could unglaze the cylinders with a ball hone and some new rings will help - but the real answer is aftermarket forged pistons that have better more modern design in every way and completely do your head -- de-carbon / freshen valve job . new guide seals - maybe a set of valve springs.
 
Another idea is that it's probably used oil since it was new, probably because the original owner babied the engine to break it in when he should have been opening the throttle. No way to know unless the original owner was you, but if and when you do rebuild the top end ride it hard, open the throttle wide, especially the first few miles.

Nothing good can come of the factory recommended easy break in procedure except they don't get sued as often by new owners crashing their motorcycles.
 
tkent02 said:
Another idea is that it's probably used oil since it was new, probably because the original owner babied the engine to break it in when he should have been opening the throttle. No way to know unless the original owner was you, but if and when you do rebuild the top end ride it hard, open the throttle wide, especially the first few miles.

Nothing good can come of the factory recommended easy break in procedure except they don't get sued as often by new owners crashing their motorcycles.
Click to expand...

That's the thing, unless you own it from new who's to say how it was broken in or the life it led previously.

My good friend has a shop and I think we'll just tear it down and do the top end at some point. He says we should put a big bore kit of some kind in it but really who cares, it's not a sport bike and it's fine the way it is. News rings, valve seals, ect and call it a day. Got to think we can knock it out in a few hours if we focus.
 
tkent02 said:
Nothing good can come of the factory recommended easy break in procedure...
Click to expand...

That's a common belief that Cycle World has addressed repeatedly over the years. It makes no sense at all, and it's been demonstrated to be just a myth.

Unless you know more than the manufacturer.
 
I'll take that oil burn rate! My 82' GS850L acquired from the original owner with less than 25k miles uses a quart every 300 miles!!! He changed the oil/filter every autumn, kept it in a garage, and it spent the last 20 years doing short city errand runs for him. The compression reads ~42 psi across the board. So WTH happened to this engine? The guy is not an aggressive driver at all. The only thing I could find was that the air filter was installed on the bottom of the air box:p so it was pretty much not getting filtered air, but that may have been that way just the last couple years or from 30 years ago...
 
What if it's just the rings are stuck ? Might be worth researching ways to at least try to free them up before assuming the worst.
 
Rob S. said:
That's a common belief that Cycle World has addressed repeatedly over the years. It makes no sense at all, and it's been demonstrated to be just a myth.

Unless you know more than the manufacturer.
Click to expand...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have used this method on several engines (both automotive and motorcycle) that I have built. It works great. The factory break-in procedures are intentionally very conservative. You are highly likely to get lower performance following the factory instructions.
 
On my 1150 I broke it in nice and slow with the first set of new rings and 1229 pistons, burned oil, and the #2 cylinder never sealed, bad compression, and would have an oily plug after a 1000 miles or so, it would burn a bit more than 1/2qt in 2000 miles or so.
And now with the 1260 pistons, new rings and new bore, I broke it in HARD.
It burns little to no oil, I do change it often, 2000 miles or so, I have never had to add any oil between changes.
Could be many reasons, just my experience.
And breaking it in hard does not mean revving it to the moon, just varied rpm and some hard acceleration and change the oil right away.
 
JJ said:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have used this method on several engines (both automotive and motorcycle) that I have built. It works great. The factory break-in procedures are intentionally very conservative. You are highly likely to get lower performance following the factory instructions.
Click to expand...

Indeed. There was a spate of oil-burning VWs in the 90s and 00s caused by people being too easy with break-in. All the ones I knew that had been broken-in with a bit of verve never gave any trouble afterwards. The aforementioned 1L (or quart) per 1000 miles was the typical consumption of a babied engine and the more robustly broken-in ones had a consumption of nearly nil. VW wouldn't do anything to rectify the oil burners as, according to them, that consumption was 'reasonable'. Well, it was reasonable in the 70s, sure.
 
Just changed to Mobile 15w/50 and the burn went from 1qt. every 300 miles to almost nil,wow...? Fingers crossed, lol.
 
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