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What is the best motorcycle OILS ???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fancool
  • Start date Start date
This guy has an interesting take on it - select an oil which gives 10psi per 1000rpm for plain bearinged engines.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
His reasoning is valid, imo, with regards to bearing flow and cooling. That dynamic wedge needs to be maintained, and a too-thick oil isn't doing as much good as you'd think.

There is one slight gotcha I've come across mentioned with synthetic oils in ball-bearinged engines - ball skid. I've been using synth for the past couple of years and can't say it's affected me, but the risk is small, I think.
 
As I understand it, the perfect oil has 0 weight when cold. If 0w50 existed, it'd be the best 50 weight oil.

Generally speaking, you want the cold oil to flow as thin as possible, then thicken as it warms up. I'm pretty sure someone has marketed a 0w30 oil.
 
Have been getting Valvoline motorcycle oil from Walmart.


Just checked & it meets JASO MA2.
 
This guy has an interesting take on it - select an oil which gives 10psi per 1000rpm for plain bearinged engines.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
His reasoning is valid, imo, with regards to bearing flow and cooling. That dynamic wedge needs to be maintained, and a too-thick oil isn't doing as much good as you'd think.

There is one slight gotcha I've come across mentioned with synthetic oils in ball-bearinged engines - ball skid. I've been using synth for the past couple of years and can't say it's affected me, but the risk is small, I think.


Very informative article.
It's not clear to me, though, why do Shell (as an example) insists on producing 15W motorcycle oil.
 
Very informative article.
It's not clear to me, though, why do Shell (as an example) insists on producing 15W motorcycle oil.

Typically a 15W-40 oil requires less additives to stabilize viscosity compared to a 10W-40. Most people don't ride when it's cold out so a 15W oil is a good choice for these people.
 
Yes Ed, it makes sense. More so in the second part of the designation (30-40-50) ie the hotter the higher;
Worth also pointing out that, the deductions, of the article apply mainly to water cooled engines, so for the rest of us not as prodigal as to sport a Maybach , an Enzo and a Lambo under the same roof ,
we should stick to the seasonal change of oil.
On the other hand I tought the proof of concept, was about the fact that a thinner oil is better altogether for when the fight between metals bearing and rubbing against each other, is at it' s summit ie at startup.
 
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Hi guys, I tried Castrol,total,shell,elf,motul,motorex,silkolene on my Suzuki GS400 '79 44000km and I found that it works best with elf moto 4 dx 20w50 (out of production,replaced with elf cruise 20w50,same thing) and with Shell AX7 15w50.
I like to have always good oil and I change it every 3500/4000km,i ride the entire year almost every day,in winter I use 15w50 and I warm the engine 2/3min,oil filter changed every 2 oil change and I put oil aditives like motorcoat LS 27.
ive found that more expensive oils like motul and silkolene doesn't work as well,the engine is louder and the shifting is rough when the engine is warm.
my engine consumes 0.7l of oil on 1000km of normal riding,consumes more if I ride it hard,do you guys have better oil consumption?
 
Unfortunately rotela is not available in the uk :sorrow:

Nor here. There is stuff called Rimula but the hassle of tracking down a stockist is too much and Shell can't even say if it is like Rotella. I've ended up with some 15W40 mineral oil for older diesel engines.
 
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