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What r these pics telling me?

It did run well. Had a flat spot at a little over 1/2 throttle that i wanted to fix this season. I replaced some shims last yr, cant find the notes... I may have been off in my numbers, hope i can fix with shims.. At least get the season out of it.... Thinking on marvel mystery oil in the cylinders... While the shims get ordered...
 
Then adjust them and figure out why the #1 cylinder it running so rich.

Some sort of engine top end cleaner while you ride it instead of MMO?
 
mvalenti said:
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Upper left plug... is it oil fouled or fuel that makes it look wet?

The bike still has electronic ignition correct?

Have you measured the plug cap to plug cap resistance on coils no 1~4 and 2~3?

What is the voltage going to each coil?
 
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Will do, the bike only has a side stand and when on it tends to lean toward the rich cylinder, maybe partially to blame?
 
Partially yes, but not likely to matter very much if at all.

Float level high, leaking needle and seat, improper jet needle, cut o-ring, partially open or leaking enrichment plunger, cracked carb body :eek: (ask wallowgreen about that one), bad ignitor...
 
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Plunger! I dont wven know her!!!
Ok ill recheck the float and needle. My pilot needle jet looks as it might be worn a bit..
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The pilot fuel screws get that way by being seated too tightly. It squeezes in on the needle and widens the seat. If they stick up into the throat of the carburetor now when lightly seated, the seats are ruined. It's not disaster, but they will never meter correctly and close is the best you are going to get the adjustments. The seats that have been widened will need the fuel needle turned in more to approximate the adjustments of the good seats. It makes it kind of a crap shoot to get them near right. just play with them until the Air adjustment for highest idle is near the same number of turns out from lightly seated for all carburetors, and that will be about as good as it is going to get.
 
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Well the first picture is a train wreck, the second not too bad and the last two fairly normal. If the last two adjust out to lets say 3/4 from lightly seated. The second might need to be between 1/2 and 3/4, but the first I would start at 1/4 or less. you get the picture. I had a set worse than that and I chased my tail for near three years before I trashed them and rebuilt a near virgin set with factory paint on the screws. Normal is when lightly seated you can just see the tip of the fuel needle under the hole in the throat of the carburetor. You can still get those running nicely, but I would most likely replace the first carb body if it were mine.
 
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Didnt have the fittings to make a leak down tester last night, however i did manage to fill cylinders with 100 psi and couldnt hear any leaks... Compiling some parts today/tomorrow for a ghetto leak tester...

Wondering about my seats, if i put a point on the end of a steel rod the same taper as a needle and used lapping compound im wondering if i could improve them.. I have inspection equipment, and lathes at my disposal at work.
 
Don't try to do anything with the fuel needle seat. Some of your pictures might be a bit misleading. Stretching those holes out is the problem when the fuel needles are ground into the seat, you don't need to widen them any more than they are. They need to be clean. Replacing the damaged fuel needles would help some. If any of the fuel needle tips stick up into the throat of the carburetor, you are going to have to figure out how much less those have to be turned out from lightly seated to approximate the position of an undamaged one. It just makes your job harder because slight changes on the damaged seats can make bigger differences than the undamaged ones. All fuel needle adjustments will affect air screw adjustments.
 
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